more 98 LS1 what ifs
#1
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more 98 LS1 what ifs
so I've been on here researching alot of things and found that for what I want im going to use the TR224 on a 114LSA 224/224, .563/.563 because of its driveablility, Also using a set of 243 heads and full boltons. Im looking for about 400rwhp with this setup, and this is all going to be done on a 98 Ls1 block and bottom end with 120,000 miles on it. i was also thinking of spraying a 100 shot or so on top of all of this. Do you think it would hold? and could i achieve the power numbers im looking for N/A?
#2
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mill the heads for a little more compression...the cam will like it, as will the spray.
you should come darn close to your goal with that setup, depending on your drivetrain.
cam only the 224 usually yields numbers in the 380rwhp cam only...the 243s should give you the 15-20hp boost to get to your goal.
as for if it will hold....you never know. guys have blown engines with 1/2 or 1/4 the miles you do....others have had them hold with more. total crap shoot.
you should come darn close to your goal with that setup, depending on your drivetrain.
cam only the 224 usually yields numbers in the 380rwhp cam only...the 243s should give you the 15-20hp boost to get to your goal.
as for if it will hold....you never know. guys have blown engines with 1/2 or 1/4 the miles you do....others have had them hold with more. total crap shoot.
#3
LSX Mechanic
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I would hold off on the spray for now, and put that money into a good valve job on the heads. Heads/cam/spray on a 120K 98 shortblock is going to be pressing your luck and putting you on borrowed time.
Get a good valve job/blend done on the 243's, deck them .030 (yes you will have plenty of room with a 224 cam), and it'll make the sickest TQ curve you've ever seen.
Get a good valve job/blend done on the 243's, deck them .030 (yes you will have plenty of room with a 224 cam), and it'll make the sickest TQ curve you've ever seen.
#4
I would go with Damian's suggestion. I went cam only with my 98 and it didnt hold, it spun a rod bearing with in the first 50 miles and my car has 90k miles on it. My cam is an MTI X1 230/227, I bought all the supporting parts involved with the cam swap including a ported LS6 oil pump.
#6
Replace the rod bolts w/ ARP's or the replcement LS6 GM rod bolts. Do a search to confirm proper rod bolt install proceedure, ie; change one bolt per rod @ a time, don't un-torque both existing bolts @ the same time or you'll have to replace rod bearings. As noted, forget the spray for now.
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#8
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With 120K I would do a compression test first off. Make sure every cylinder is with in specs. Once you figure out whats going on with the engine and all is well then I would start the process. If you have any compression isues that will be the killer of your engine specially with a cam and if you up the compression ratio with new heads and so on. Make sure you do;
Lifters
w/ oil pump (Must)
Timing chain mand so on...
I am sure you know all this but mentioning it doesn't hurt. Listen to Damien he knows his ****. I would CNC the chambers too. Again though compression test then if its all good gren light.
Good luck.
Lifters
w/ oil pump (Must)
Timing chain mand so on...
I am sure you know all this but mentioning it doesn't hurt. Listen to Damien he knows his ****. I would CNC the chambers too. Again though compression test then if its all good gren light.
Good luck.
Last edited by 02*C5; 11-24-2009 at 04:50 PM.
#9
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The week link in your motor is going to be the oil pump first, then the bearings. If you replace the rod bearings you might as well do the mains too and be done with the bottom end. That will leave your next week link, the stock pistons and old rings, I would not mill the heads and spray on those pistons. I would do one or the other but not both, because those stock hyperutectic pistins will not tolorate and detination. Raising the compression while running pump gas with those pistons is not a problem with a good tune, or running 100 shot of spray on those pistons with the stock compression and pump gas and a good tune is not a problem, but combining them both will not only require a good tune, but also great fuel, and a more extensive fuel system up grade.
My advise is to look at this in steps, go ahead and run that cam with those heads un-milled with the spray and a great tune. Get the right injectors and a minor fuel system upgrade (GSS-340 intank pump), go ahead and upgrade that old week oil pump and it will not hurt to change the rod and main bearings if you can. Save up your bones and when this engine gives up the smoke, build it back with forged pistons, better rings, more compression, some port work on those heads, LS6 intake or a Fast intake, and 200 shot of spray.
Start symple and work your way up.
Good luck and keep us up to date on your progress.
My advise is to look at this in steps, go ahead and run that cam with those heads un-milled with the spray and a great tune. Get the right injectors and a minor fuel system upgrade (GSS-340 intank pump), go ahead and upgrade that old week oil pump and it will not hurt to change the rod and main bearings if you can. Save up your bones and when this engine gives up the smoke, build it back with forged pistons, better rings, more compression, some port work on those heads, LS6 intake or a Fast intake, and 200 shot of spray.
Start symple and work your way up.
Good luck and keep us up to date on your progress.
#10
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a friend ran a 150 shot with 150xxx miles on his 99 ta.All he upgraded was the fuel pump and injectors.We ran it every weekend at the track.
The car was his dd also.It had a stock bottom end also.
Like said earliar,it's a crap shoot.
The car was his dd also.It had a stock bottom end also.
Like said earliar,it's a crap shoot.