Help choosing new cam and lifters for my road race motor
11-22-2009, 02:09 PM
#1
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Help choosing new cam and lifters for my road race motor Guys, so bouncing off the limiter at 7400 apparently kills the caddy lifter. 
After I pulled the lifters, I saw that the cam was flat spotted as well, so that came out as well. Right now I just need to decide which cam and lifters to go with and back together it goes.
First thing I will say is that I will lower the rev limiter and will not hit the rev limiter anymore either
Setup:
2900 lbs car, Forged 347ci, Fast 90, 4" intake, Trickflow 215, 1 7/8" headers, dual exhaust.
Cam:
Car made 485 rwhp, 415 rwtq with the current cam .630/.615 236/240 111LSA. I'm thinking of staying with the same cam except jump to a 113 or 114LSA for some sort of improvement. I'd love to hear some suggestions on which cam might do better, why, etc? Keep in my this is a road race motor, so I'd love to stay away from extreme duration and lift such as MS4 and T-Rex cams. I also do not want to lose any power with a new cam.
Lifters:
I know it is my fault that I destroyed the Caddy lifter, but I'm not sure whether to go with a Caddy lifter again or Comp Cam lifters.
I weighed both lifters and comp cam lifter weighs about 1 ounce less or so. Anyway, my concern is that comp cam lifters do not have as much of a support around the wheel. Seems like the arms that hold the wheel could much easier break than say the Caddy lifters. Does anyone have support or information on how strong those lifters are? I know GM kept upgrading that area from LS1 to LS7 to Caddy lifters, but comp cam lifters are same design as original LS1 lifters as far as that goes.
My other option is go to with same lifters and cam and not change a thing
After I pulled the lifters, I saw that the cam was flat spotted as well, so that came out as well. Right now I just need to decide which cam and lifters to go with and back together it goes.First thing I will say is that I will lower the rev limiter and will not hit the rev limiter anymore either
Setup:
2900 lbs car, Forged 347ci, Fast 90, 4" intake, Trickflow 215, 1 7/8" headers, dual exhaust.
Cam:
Car made 485 rwhp, 415 rwtq with the current cam .630/.615 236/240 111LSA. I'm thinking of staying with the same cam except jump to a 113 or 114LSA for some sort of improvement. I'd love to hear some suggestions on which cam might do better, why, etc? Keep in my this is a road race motor, so I'd love to stay away from extreme duration and lift such as MS4 and T-Rex cams. I also do not want to lose any power with a new cam.
Lifters:
I know it is my fault that I destroyed the Caddy lifter, but I'm not sure whether to go with a Caddy lifter again or Comp Cam lifters.
I weighed both lifters and comp cam lifter weighs about 1 ounce less or so. Anyway, my concern is that comp cam lifters do not have as much of a support around the wheel. Seems like the arms that hold the wheel could much easier break than say the Caddy lifters. Does anyone have support or information on how strong those lifters are? I know GM kept upgrading that area from LS1 to LS7 to Caddy lifters, but comp cam lifters are same design as original LS1 lifters as far as that goes.
My other option is go to with same lifters and cam and not change a thing
11-22-2009, 02:37 PM
#2
Be careful about changing that cam to a higher LSA. You are moving the power higher in the rpm range.
For your application I would fork over the dough for Morels or Lunati (rebadged Morels) lifters. It is what the offshore powerboat guys who run extended high rpm's use.......
For your application I would fork over the dough for Morels or Lunati (rebadged Morels) lifters. It is what the offshore powerboat guys who run extended high rpm's use.......
11-22-2009, 09:43 PM
#4
how do you say the current peak is at 6700 but you take it to 7400? looks like thats where they ended your run, the numbers havent even started to fall off. and if lifters are being a problem and your wrapping it up that high why not go with some solid lifters and adj rockers? dont know if its something youd want to do.
11-23-2009, 10:08 AM
#5
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I'm definitely staying with hydraulic lifters. The graph does fall off after 6700 although not bad, just during that pull they didn't take it any higher. Lifters weren't really the problem, more like a weak point due to the operator error. So I'm considering if there's a better hydraulic setup than the Caddy lifters.
11-23-2009, 11:50 AM
#6
how long were you road racing with this cam?
What springs were you using?
That cam already looks to have an agressive xfi lobe on the intake. I starterd getting nervous about my plans to use 1.8 rockers on a 228 comp R lobe cam. Preditor z advised me to stay away from an xfi or lsk lobe for RR.
I agree, if you go up in lsa you'll probably loose low end torque. I think a lower lift cam on a 110 lsa with an ICL of 108 to 106 will give you the power where you need it earlier in the power band. If you want to get something more streetable but big, get a torquer 2 on a 112.
If you have gears, I guess that changes things a little.
What springs were you using?
That cam already looks to have an agressive xfi lobe on the intake. I starterd getting nervous about my plans to use 1.8 rockers on a 228 comp R lobe cam. Preditor z advised me to stay away from an xfi or lsk lobe for RR.
I agree, if you go up in lsa you'll probably loose low end torque. I think a lower lift cam on a 110 lsa with an ICL of 108 to 106 will give you the power where you need it earlier in the power band. If you want to get something more streetable but big, get a torquer 2 on a 112.
If you have gears, I guess that changes things a little.
Last edited by dmiz0420; 11-23-2009 at 01:18 PM.
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11-23-2009, 12:27 PM
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11-23-2009, 04:52 PM
#10
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See that's what I don't get, these look similar to the Comp ones, less material around the wheel than the Caddy lifters. That's what LS1 original lifters were known for is breaking those arms.
11-24-2009, 12:45 AM
#11
You will not break these, its the material used 
These are the preferred hi performance hydraulic lifter. Thycome in a few different steps. If you want the ultimate Morel it will cost $750. Sustained hi rpm. It will look the same as they are drop in replacements.
The ultimate has a thicker body wall and we can order it in a reduced travel (.030 total travel) This is what I have in my engine. But it will look the same, its drop in replacement.
These are the preferred hi performance hydraulic lifter. Thycome in a few different steps. If you want the ultimate Morel it will cost $750. Sustained hi rpm. It will look the same as they are drop in replacements.The ultimate has a thicker body wall and we can order it in a reduced travel (.030 total travel) This is what I have in my engine. But it will look the same, its drop in replacement.
The lifter body is fully machined from alloy steel bar stock, not a casting like OEM lifters. The nose wheel is machined from 8620 material and case hardened for durability. Morel's proprietary hydraulic valving is designed for sustained high rpm levels commonly seen in performance applications.
