blue99fbody

iTrader: (5)

so im building a 393 stroker and have a few questions
first off the set up
eagle 4.100 crank
eagle 6.125 h beam rods with arp 2000's
Arias 3.905 flat top pistons
254 260 630 625 113+2 cam
patriot stage 2 243 heads 227cc 64cc- i plan on have more extensive portwork and milling done to these
ported fast 90/90
1 3/4 headers for now
shooting for ~11.5 to 11.8 cr its 11.2 with 66cc heads

first my goal for this set up is 500whp na do you guys think it will be a problem?

i know i will be a lil rpm limited with the stroke how high do you think i could spin this? 6500?

second i would like to hit this with some nitrous, another limiting factor with the stroke and short pistons i know, but how much do you think i could throw at it with a good tune? nitrous will be fuel'd by a stand alone system. would a progressive controller allow me to throw any more juice at it?

this will be a street/strip car and has a m6 and 12bolt
thanks in advance

Hamrdown

iTrader: (25)

Pm me your cell #. I've got pretty much the same set up. I can walk you through what will and won't work on this set up and how to properly spray a big shot safely. Your goals are easily attainable but your camshaft selection is a little off giving the extra long stroke and with nitrous in mind.It's jar too much to try to type from a cell phone.

blue99fbody

iTrader: (5)

i agree it is jar to much, lol. pm sent

blue99fbody

iTrader: (5)

anyone else have any input good or bad?

DSRE

iTrader: (7)

I'd like to hear what works as well, maybe you could throw some hints out there? If a 4.10 stroke fits i'll use that instead of 4.00!

Stroker396@APF

iTrader: (18)

I have those cranks available from Scat when the time comes if you like and come March I might have a new line at an exceptional value.

Oh as for your build, you may want to revise your RWHP goal numbers up you should easily beat that.

To the originator, It looks like you will have a nice build. I take it you have the headers already or you would have gone with the bigger 1 7/8"?

I have been looking into how much the pistons are coming our of the sleeve with the longer stroke, I personally am going to try a 3.9" stroke.

blue99fbody

iTrader: (5)

yes i have 1 3/4 already from my current set up. if money permits ill get some 1 7/8 but it will prob have to wait.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

why is it people think stroke limits rpm? We run 4.250 stroke in these engines to 7200 rpms without issue. You adjust the piston for the added stroke to make it all work together. We dont recommend a power add with that, tuning will be the key to longevity.

southpaw0314

iTrader: (5)

sorry but how much would it cost to build something like this?

Stroker396@APF

iTrader: (18)

Not sure if you are set on the specific companies you list, because several others make the same parts i.e. crank, rods, pistons etc...

Don't forget there are a lot of other variables that will need to be addressed (i list some below)

These numbers are approximates
Rotating assembly $2400
Camshaft $350-$400
Valvesprings $200+ (for over .650 lift)
hardened Pushrods $120
Heads - port work $500+
Valvejob $250
milling
machine work (block) $500+
fast 90/90 $1000-1100 +/-
Nitrous Kit
Gaskets - $200+

But also
Injectors (you will max the stock ones out)
Tuning $350+

optional
Double roller timing chain $110+
ported oil pump
Fuel pump

I know there is more that I am not thinking of right now. But figure by the time you are done your looking at a minimum of $6000 and up that is not factoring in things like the 90/90, just the long block. You should not need to do port work or a valvejob on the heads if you buy them CNCed already.

This also assumes that you build it yourself so not labor charges.

southpaw0314

iTrader: (5)

if i forge my ls1 motor keeping the same cubes will i be able to use my stock crank or should i upgrade. i plan to supercharge down the road.

SSMongoose02

iTrader: (2)

I have a 393 in mine. What ever you do BUY AN AFTERMARKET OIL PAN! The factory one will not fit the stroke and niether will the windage tray.

I haven't been able to dyno it yet because of an oil leak that has been getting in my clutch and pressure plate. This is because I modified the factory oil pan and windage tray to fit and it leaks in the rear at high RPM. I have a moroso one coming in tomorrow. Once I get the leak fixed it will go on the dyno for some numbers.

Also when choosing an oil pump, go with the SLP one. I used the melling high volume/high pressure and I had to mod the front cover (aggrivating). The SLP one fits with no issues. *if you go with a double roller timing chain, which I suggest.

blue99fbody

iTrader: (5)

has anyone else with the 4.100 stroke or 4.125 had to get a aftermarket pan? this was not something i was told i had to do. do you have a link to the pan your getting?

SSMongoose02

iTrader: (2)

http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/21150/10002/-1

I wasn't told I needed a pan either, I found out the hard way when I tried to rotate the engine by hand and it completely stopped.

KCFormula

iTrader: (4)

I run a 4.125" stroke with a factory fbody pan. Just clearance it.

Oh and good luck on the build. FWIW I would run more intake.

blue99fbody

iTrader: (5)

Do u have any pics of where u had to clearance it?

david vericker

iTrader: (1)

The stock crank is the strongest OEM bottom end component and is good to approximately 1000 hp.

JPH

iTrader: (2)

Ditch those heads imo. Everything else looks ok, but a 4" bore deal would be alot better also!

1CAMWNDR

iTrader: (21)

Not true at all on either account.

OP, You don't need that much cam either.

SSMongoose02

iTrader: (2)

Allow me to rephrase. The pan and tray will not fit without clearancing the hell out of them and it makes it go alot smoother with an aftermarket oil pan made to fit up to a 4.125 crankshaft. Hows that?