whats the BEST FRESH CANVAS that needs paint.
#1
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whats the BEST FRESH CANVAS that needs paint.
My car has a hooker catback exhaust and an slp air intake. im a fresh canvas ready to build a badass street car, its a convertable, A4, im going with a roll cage and the whole 9 yards. It will prolly never see the track and its sort of a DD. Whats a good cam head package that will give me some low to mid range power? I dont want a cam that dosent come alive untill 4000, i want to come off a roll breaking necks. i also want it to sound like its cammed, nice a lopey.
What comes to mind:
El torro
Torquer v2, or v3
polluter (but i think this is more high end power? but i dont know)
Heads:
something like the 2.5 ls6's from texas speed or what ever will be good with the cam i choose.
lpp exaust coming soon...
Any direction would be awesome, im looking for 400rwhp and up considering im going with H/C and not just a cam. but if the setup will work cam only it would be nice to chill with around 400 with cam only and sAve up for some heads later.
Thanx guys.
What comes to mind:
El torro
Torquer v2, or v3
polluter (but i think this is more high end power? but i dont know)
Heads:
something like the 2.5 ls6's from texas speed or what ever will be good with the cam i choose.
lpp exaust coming soon...
Any direction would be awesome, im looking for 400rwhp and up considering im going with H/C and not just a cam. but if the setup will work cam only it would be nice to chill with around 400 with cam only and sAve up for some heads later.
Thanx guys.
#3
I guess performance and budget go hand in hand. also, cant go fast without the supporting upgrades (ie suspension, brakes, rear end)
if i had to recommend anything id say upgrade the suspension, rear end, and get a torque converter first.
do some research on what other people are doing with proven cams, and their whole combination. if you have a power or track goal, look them up and see what it took others to get there.
el torro and the torquers are good cams, the polluter is pretty high end. guess it depends on the person. if your wanting a street cam with midrange power the polluter isnt for you.
if i had to recommend anything id say upgrade the suspension, rear end, and get a torque converter first.
do some research on what other people are doing with proven cams, and their whole combination. if you have a power or track goal, look them up and see what it took others to get there.
el torro and the torquers are good cams, the polluter is pretty high end. guess it depends on the person. if your wanting a street cam with midrange power the polluter isnt for you.
#4
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Any of those cams you mentioned are going to move the power range up from a stock cam. If you truely want low end power keep the stock cam and put a supercharger on it. Any aftermarket cam is going to move the power range up because it will build cylinder pressure through valve timing at higher rpms, and a biproduct of this is bleeding off more compression at low rpms causing a power loss. This is the only way possible to make more power naturally aspirated.
#5
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keep the cam small, the el torro might be just what you need...IIRC the torque curve is very nice on that one
IF YOU GET A CAM WORTH DOING AND DO NOT GET A STALL YOU WILL BE WASTING A **** LOAD OF MONEY TO STILL BE SLOW...GETTING BEAT BY BOLT ON LS1 AND S197 MUSTANGS SLOW
snapping necks without a stall is an oxymoron, your car will have less ***** than stock from a stop or low roll
Being an auto and having done it the wrong way I agree your first mod should be at least a mild stall. I did a cam/headers/ect first and the car was still pretty slow...finally got a stall and as soon as the temps warm up so the tires will hook it is going to be brutal, but even SPINNING the car pulls as hard as stock stall HOOKING (I raced a buddy/rival as proof, I'm not going on butt dyno). From a roll it moves out much faster and has fewer dead spots.
I think my SS3600 stall is great for a daily in flat areas, but if you have a lot of hills in your town (I'm currently visiting my old college in NW Arkansas and there are small hills everywhere) then you might find it a bit annoying as it takes about 3k rpm to pull the steep in town hills at low speeds and the full 3600 to pull them at 40-45mph.
In Oklahoma where its lame and flat as **** I barely notice the stall and didn't even notice a considerable MPG difference.
IF YOU GET A CAM WORTH DOING AND DO NOT GET A STALL YOU WILL BE WASTING A **** LOAD OF MONEY TO STILL BE SLOW...GETTING BEAT BY BOLT ON LS1 AND S197 MUSTANGS SLOW
snapping necks without a stall is an oxymoron, your car will have less ***** than stock from a stop or low roll
Being an auto and having done it the wrong way I agree your first mod should be at least a mild stall. I did a cam/headers/ect first and the car was still pretty slow...finally got a stall and as soon as the temps warm up so the tires will hook it is going to be brutal, but even SPINNING the car pulls as hard as stock stall HOOKING (I raced a buddy/rival as proof, I'm not going on butt dyno). From a roll it moves out much faster and has fewer dead spots.
I think my SS3600 stall is great for a daily in flat areas, but if you have a lot of hills in your town (I'm currently visiting my old college in NW Arkansas and there are small hills everywhere) then you might find it a bit annoying as it takes about 3k rpm to pull the steep in town hills at low speeds and the full 3600 to pull them at 40-45mph.
In Oklahoma where its lame and flat as **** I barely notice the stall and didn't even notice a considerable MPG difference.
#6
I know you said "low end power", but 1st thing you should try and findsomeone local with a 3,500 or higher stalled auto and go for a ride in it or even better drive it.
With a stock motor a 3,500 stall can knock over a half second off 1/4 mile times alone (works great on the street too)
I'm running stock 241 heads ported, polished and milled, 238/242 .595/.595 112lsa cam and 3,800 stall in my daily driver 04 GTO and love the setup.
I'd highly recomend nothing less than a 3,500-4,000rpm stall and a 228 cam if someone is going to do the work or pay $1,000 or more to have all the work done.
Plus don't forget any cam swap NEEDS valve springs and figure $500-$700 for a good tune from a reputable tuner.
With a stock motor a 3,500 stall can knock over a half second off 1/4 mile times alone (works great on the street too)
I'm running stock 241 heads ported, polished and milled, 238/242 .595/.595 112lsa cam and 3,800 stall in my daily driver 04 GTO and love the setup.
I'd highly recomend nothing less than a 3,500-4,000rpm stall and a 228 cam if someone is going to do the work or pay $1,000 or more to have all the work done.
Plus don't forget any cam swap NEEDS valve springs and figure $500-$700 for a good tune from a reputable tuner.
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#9
1st thing I did was exhaust,then I did stall and valve springs, then suspension, heads/cam over several months.
You want/ need a stall and will love it, you just don't know it yet
You want/ need a stall and will love it, you just don't know it yet
#10
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You will need to do a set of headers first too so that new cam can breathe. What year is your car? If your 01-02 you already have an ls6 intake but if you are 98-00 you may wanna start searching for an ls6 IM too.
Order I did mine was: lid first, next the stall (shiftkit & cooler), then headers & catback, lastly heads, cam, UD pulley, FAST 90/90 all at once.
Just be patient and you will get there.....
Order I did mine was: lid first, next the stall (shiftkit & cooler), then headers & catback, lastly heads, cam, UD pulley, FAST 90/90 all at once.
Just be patient and you will get there.....
#11
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cool thanks guys. SOMbitch what do you mean (shiftkit & cooler)???? you put a shift kit in at the same time as your stall? and a cooler? i dont even know what a cooler is lol
#12
If you put in a stall converter, it generates more heat in the transmission due to it slipping when it engages, so in turn you need a extra transmission cooler so you do not burn up the transmission. If the transmission has high mileage I would not put a shift kit in it, it would only reduce the life of the transmission. B and M and others make the transmission coolers. I would put in a 3600 stall converter to make the car a fun around town cruiser if you put in a cam and boltons, if just boltons I would throw a 3000-3200 stall converter in it.
#14
In all honesty the A4 should have all come stock with a bigger/ better cooler.
Go to your local autoparts store and get a large cooler for RV/towing ant put it in first. The easiest way is to cut the factory lines at the radiator and run the supplied lines that come with the new cooler to the old lines
Go to your local autoparts store and get a large cooler for RV/towing ant put it in first. The easiest way is to cut the factory lines at the radiator and run the supplied lines that come with the new cooler to the old lines
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right im just getting the funds together then i will see what works well with what. im not going to get a big dick cam and a little stall lol i will check first forsure.