transam69230

iTrader: (49)

I am changing my setup this spring, and I got a set of TFS 215s and I need to get new pushrods. I have heard and read a lot of good things about Manton pushrods. I know that I need to determine my length, but I was wondering what size to get? Can i get a 3/8 pushrod, or should I get 11/32 or 5/16? What wall thickness should I get? Whats the difference in tapered and non tapered? What kind of end should I get for the purshrod? I am pretty new to all of the internal engine stuff and trying to learn as much as I can. I used the search and couldn't find my answers to these question.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

I never posted this here on tech but I did post it over on CF. This should answer some of your questions. OD is more important than ID. Weight plays a small role unlike the valve side. I believe TFS heads are machined for 3/8" pushrods but Brian Tooley can probably provide a better answer on that. Here is the link: Link

racer7088

On some of the TFS heads the intake rocker can only accept an 11/32nds pushrod so you have to check.

What were your results on the above deal though?

transam69230

iTrader: (49)

Thank you for the link, there is so much great info in there. I think that I will just get the same pushrods as you did, and not worry about the 3/8s, that way i know they will fit.

I have seen Tooley post about them being 3/8s but he said if the heads were made in the last 9 months since May of 09. I don't know when the heads were made cause i got them used. So I am not sure if they have room for the 3/8s or not.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

I can't guarantee the double taper will fit. I rolled the dice when I bought them knowing up front I might have a bag of paper weights. Fortunately they fit. Also, I bought them from Trend which were considerably less then Manton. If you go with 11/32, then Manton is the place to get them. Your other option is go buy one off the shelf 3/8 straight pushrod and see if it has interference issues. Terry can make you one or Trend will sell you one. Most shops will want to sell a complete set. When I was looking at 11/32 Terry made me one pushrod with a removable end piece so I could alter the length.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Not sure I understand what you are asking? There was no measureable power difference but I also ran the two dyno sessions with different fuels (winter vs. summer blend) which overshaddowed any difference the pushrods themselves would have made. The upper end of the curve, even though lower, looked to be carrying power better though so it appears that upper RPM stability may have improved. Biggest gain for me was the knowledge that my valve train should be more stable and last longer.

racer7088

Thats all I was wondering so thanks. With some of our stuff we have even seen 10hp gains but didn't know if you had.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Well, I would be lying if I didn't say I was hoping. But the curve was parallel and about 10 hp lower after the pushrod change. Then the fuel issue came up. That's why I mentioned the shape at the higher RPM, I suspect had I dynoed the car, did the swap and put it right back on the dyno (same fuel) I might have seen a few hp up top. Needless to say different days, different fuels and other variables make it hard to quantify small incremental changes. I think that may be one of the reasons some guys see 10 hp gains from an electric water pump and some guys see no gain. Different day, different fuel and no consistency.

racer7088

Yep. I have only seen gains on the higher spring pressure syuff although now almost everything is like that it seems.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

That is somewhat why I went this way. 155# on the seat and over 400# open. Felt that stiffer pushrods were in order.