More Iron 6.0L ?s
#1
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More Iron 6.0L ?s
Sup fellas! If I purchased a 6.0L iron block and mated an OFFSET crank to it, would their be any reliability or durability issues with that set-up ? Could I have about 406 0r 8 CI and get away with not having too sleeve the motor ? Does it make since to add that much more weight on my car or does the horsepower i'll gain jusitfy or make up for that ? Basically, what i'm asking is Do i need too stay with a forged 346 or build the 6.0L ? Its a daily driver that may be sprayed in the future with no more than a 150 shot ! I can get the block for about $600 and the crank $300 . So i figure about $1000 for the block and crank, another $1500 for pistons and rods. What do Ya'll think ?
#2
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From what I've been told, you would have to take it easy on the N20 with an offset crank. I'm sure some out there have done it and will chime in.
I just went to an iron block myself. Couldn't do stroker though - couldn't afford the crank. I didn't want to take the risk of an offset crank.
I did it because I really needed to build the short block before taking my current motor out (daily driver). You can't beat the savings of a 6.0L block and crank if you need to purchase one outright!
My plan is to have the basis for the stroker down the road a few years. After I wear this one out, I can tear it down and bore it, add new pistons and 4.00" crank.
Mine will be set up to spray a 150 shot if I want to.
Since my car is a daily driver/weekend racer, I wasn't worried about the 100 lbs added - I figure the cam I'm getting plus the added cubic inches will more than make up for the weight.
I just went to an iron block myself. Couldn't do stroker though - couldn't afford the crank. I didn't want to take the risk of an offset crank.
I did it because I really needed to build the short block before taking my current motor out (daily driver). You can't beat the savings of a 6.0L block and crank if you need to purchase one outright!
My plan is to have the basis for the stroker down the road a few years. After I wear this one out, I can tear it down and bore it, add new pistons and 4.00" crank.
Mine will be set up to spray a 150 shot if I want to.
Since my car is a daily driver/weekend racer, I wasn't worried about the 100 lbs added - I figure the cam I'm getting plus the added cubic inches will more than make up for the weight.
#3
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Originally Posted by BLK02WS6
From what I've been told, you would have to take it easy on the N20 with an offset crank. I'm sure some out there have done it and will chime in.
I just went to an iron block myself. Couldn't do stroker though - couldn't afford the crank. I didn't want to take the risk of an offset crank.
I did it because I really needed to build the short block before taking my current motor out (daily driver). You can't beat the savings of a 6.0L block and crank if you need to purchase one outright!
My plan is to have the basis for the stroker down the road a few years. After I wear this one out, I can tear it down and bore it, add new pistons and 4.00" crank.
Mine will be set up to spray a 150 shot if I want to.
Since my car is a daily driver/weekend racer, I wasn't worried about the 100 lbs added - I figure the cam I'm getting plus the added cubic inches will more than make up for the weight.
I just went to an iron block myself. Couldn't do stroker though - couldn't afford the crank. I didn't want to take the risk of an offset crank.
I did it because I really needed to build the short block before taking my current motor out (daily driver). You can't beat the savings of a 6.0L block and crank if you need to purchase one outright!
My plan is to have the basis for the stroker down the road a few years. After I wear this one out, I can tear it down and bore it, add new pistons and 4.00" crank.
Mine will be set up to spray a 150 shot if I want to.
Since my car is a daily driver/weekend racer, I wasn't worried about the 100 lbs added - I figure the cam I'm getting plus the added cubic inches will more than make up for the weight.
You may want to change the title of your post and include offset crank
#4
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Originally Posted by Nytmare
Sup fellas! If I purchased a 6.0L iron block and mated an OFFSET crank to it, would their be any reliability or durability issues with that set-up ? Could I have about 406 0r 8 CI and get away with not having too sleeve the motor ? Does it make since to add that much more weight on my car or does the horsepower i'll gain jusitfy or make up for that ? Basically, what i'm asking is Do i need too stay with a forged 346 or build the 6.0L ? Its a daily driver that may be sprayed in the future with no more than a 150 shot ! I can get the block for about $600 and the crank $300 . So i figure about $1000 for the block and crank, another $1500 for pistons and rods. What do Ya'll think ?
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My 6.0 block was bored to 4.060 (sonic checked first) and stock LS1 crank was offset ground to 3.70. That comes to 383 ci. I have been pushing well over 650 rwhp for some time now. And on occasion over 700 rwhp. I will be upping that to a nice round 800 rwhp when the rest of the chassis is up to it. Just my own personal experiances.
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#8
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Originally Posted by Malicious
Didn't TSP spray the crap out of their offset crank stroker car with 0 problems? Wasn't it something like a 396 C5?
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They used a 3.82 offset ground with some used 1.88 carrillo rods on a 4.60 bore iron block. I figured that they melted it down not far afterward as they never post anything on it. I think that set up was a big mistake. I would just pay the 820 for an eagle crank and use a 4.030 bore, and then put a 300 dp shot on top.
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Originally Posted by strokedls1
They used a 3.82 offset ground with some used 1.88 carrillo rods on a 4.60 bore iron block. I figured that they melted it down not far afterward as they never post anything on it. I think that set up was a big mistake. I would just pay the 820 for an eagle crank and use a 4.030 bore, and then put a 300 dp shot on top.
I agree 10000%!!