vortecyota

I have a 94 Toyota mud truck that I finished last year and got about 20mins. worth of bogging before sucking a bunch of mud into the crankcase, stupid/ expensive oversight on my part.

Anyways it was a fresh 5.3, Ls6 cam, Radix, 80E, and not enough time for a proper tune. I am working hard to make some money to start over again and am having trouble deciding which direction to go this time.

My thoughts are just buy a high milage 5.3, drop it in, dyno tune and go play... or try to sell my magnacharger or trade it to my engine builder towards a high comp. N/A 408 stroker.

I dont mind having to buy REAL fuel as I only use the truck (if its together) maybe 15 days a year. If I go the second route I would want a forged R/A and a good set of heads. I have no idea what kind of money that would take, but I think the power level would be favorable over the S/C 5.3.

Stupid question: does a high comp setup have any negative affects on the ability to properly calibrate the pcm like a monster cam would?

Put it back together or new stroker build? Thanks guys!

Oh yeah, in case it matters. 1 ton full width axles- Dana 60 front, 14 bolt full floater rear, 5.13 gears, 44 cut Boggers.

vortecyota

You guys aren't mad at me for building a Jap truck are you? lol. Just wondering which set up I would get more enjoyment out of. S/C 5.3 or bad *** N/A stroker?

vortecyota

Did I post in the wrong section, or is this just too much of a personal preference question? Don't want to sound impatient, just want to make the right decision once I start moving forward again.

streetassasin

iTrader: (30)

IMO I'd go with a forged 408 on a shot

TooLateVTEC

iTrader: (2)

I would think that the blown 5.3 would have more power/torque down low where you want it for a mud truck but the 408 would be badass.

Since you said you dont use it a lot, I would go the cheapest route which sounds like it would be to rebuild what you have if its salvageable?

Sounds neat, even if it is a toyota.

trx250r

you will need a tune either route. i assume you will be giving her hell most of time and i would have more faith in a built 408 over a s/c high mileage 5.3 staying together.

vortecyota

Thanks guys, I'm not really worried about which route is cheapest. I don't have a lot of money, but if I decide I want something, its always just a matter of time before I am able to save up for it. Usually something will come along and help me out like a good paying side job.

I want to be able to take this thing out and hold it wot for extended periods of time... and I want it to be badass. I am up against similar trucks all carbureted, making 550-850hp. I know I cant afford that level but I figured I'd make up for it by being the only guy at the mudhole with a lap top in the truck.

TooLateVTEC

iTrader: (2)

Word.

Get the 408 then.

vortecyota

My engine builder wants my blower and he has a 6.0 long block core, so I am having him work up an estimate on building a forged 408 for my blower and cash.

I need some good recommendations on components and which ones to watch out for. I dont know if he will look for the cheapest parts or not.

I want something that will make mega power up top and I'll just use a high stall to make up for little to no bottom.

Any suggestions on CR? Race feul is fine with me as long as it is worth it in power. Cam, etc. Also he is talking about just porting the 6.0 heads. Good idea or no?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated because if we come to an agreement he is ready to start his blower motor like now, so I have to make a decision very soon and I dont want to agree to dog of a 408 and lose my blower for nothing.

Ls6 intake? tb? Injector flow rate? Anything else?

Sorry for all the questions.... I'm super green!

TooLateVTEC

iTrader: (2)

I would shoot for atleast 11:1 compression, more if you want to run race gas. One thing about the race gas is that it is leaded and the o2 sensors wont like that I dont think.

Do some searching, but I think the 317 heads are similiar to 243's (LS6/2) and getting those ported and milled would be good on a budget. AFR's would be a good choice, like their 225cc heads, milled to get the compression up, and a camshaft to match.

Replace the rod bolts and pistons would be a good start. The stock crank and rods should be fine for the power the motor will make.

LS6 is ok, but picking up a FAST 92mm would be better.

Do some reading in the Gen IV section for if the stock injectors will be enough to support the kinda power the motor will make.

vortecyota

Thanks man! However I am talking about an all forged stroker rotating assy. and I already have ARP head, rod and main fasteners. Anything else to add? Anyone else on rotating assy. recommendations?

TooLateVTEC

iTrader: (2)

For a budget Eagle is what ive seen most people use, but Callies is the **** if you can swing the cost for crank/rods and use whoever's pistons you want.

smok'nZ

iTrader: (160)

408 NA all day im guessing it was the builders motor? if so how much power did it make

vortecyota

No, if your'e talking about the 408, it doesn't exist yet. He wants my blower and I want him to build me a 408. He already has a 6.0 core with 317 castings that he is offering in the swap.

He is putting together an estimate for me so I will know what kind of money I'll have to come up with on top of the blower. I have 3100 in the blower. I just want to get an idea what components are best so I don't agree to a bottom dweller 408.

He is also talking about porting and milling the 317s, which I gather from other threads here is not the best route. I am looking for as much compression possible without calling for race fuel. Not because of the cost of fuel, but because I understand the race fuel will cause the o2s to fail prematurely.

I am thinking ported/ milled? 243s and the K1/ Wiseco RA seems to get good reviews. Or should I save alot longer and buy AFRs or TFS. Or L92s and a FAST intake?

TooLateVTEC

iTrader: (2)

Since its going on a 6L, I would use L92's if it was me. Those things are sick stock heads, and scoggin dickey has a nice set of CNC'd ones they sell...should be on their website. Im sure you could talk to them about milling them before they ship them to get the compression your looking for.

A static compression of 11:1 would be fine, some run 11.5:1 on pump gas but I dont think the risk and the such small increase of power for half a point is worth it. With the shitty gas we get these days, leaving timing out would be the only way to not get it to ping if it was too much...pulling timing = losing HP/TQ.

vortecyota

My engine builder is dragging his feet a little which gives me a little more time for research. I have decided not to work on a low budget, this may end up taking a year or two money wise, and I want it now, but I want to be satisfied this time.

I still have not decided on any components, bottom end should be the easiest to decide on. Just a known manufacturer that has been tried and tested by you guys here.

Top end is another story, to start with I want to do some more reading on l92 heads. Comparisons with AFRs and TFS, and what other components are compatible with L92s (what it would take to run them).

I am also considering talking to my tuner about pros and cons of an open loop tune so I can go up in compression and race fuel and not have to worry about o2 failure. Anymore thoughts?

vortecyota

Just checked out scoggin dickey for L92s. Looks like about 800 a set. wow. Also noticed a bare 6.2 block for under 1500. hhhhhhhhmmmmmmmmm. I wonder what kind of ci possibilities there is there? I guess I need to move the gen 4 section.

vortecyota

If I decide to get my builder to just do a stock rebuild for now so I can be playing while I save money for a couple years, could I do a 370 (4.030") and use a forged piston that I could reuse later when it is stroker time? Or is the wrist pin located differently for a 3.662" vs. 4.000" stroke crank?

I just hate to think my truck will be down for so long. Plus there are a million other things I want to do to it! If there is not a piston that is compatable with both cranks maybe I'll either do an all stock build for now, or save just a little while and go ahead and do a 408 but with stock 317s, stock truck intake... none of the goodies. Thanks.

TooLateVTEC

iTrader: (2)

For the L92's youll need an L92 style intake, push rods and rockers as the intake valves (I believe) are offset.

As far as the pistons go I have no clue man, best to call a sponser that deals with a lot of engines and talk to them about it.

I like building things right the first time, so in your case to get the truck running it may be best to just use the 408 fairly stock and then go big down the road.

Since you arent building it for street use, an open loop tune to use race gas and no 02 sensors would work very well.

Justus67

iTrader: (3)

There is a section for LSX motors in NON-LSX vehicles, but imo take the 6.0L and punch it out to a 408 or 402 depending what you deceide to do.