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how is pushrod length checker useful without dial indicator?

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Old 02-28-2010, 03:41 PM
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Default how is pushrod length checker useful without dial indicator?

I don't see how an adjustable pushrod is useful without a dial indicator. The only way I see how this could be useful is if you are planning on torquing the bolts down to 22 ft-lbs and it takes 1-1.25 rotations of the wrench. I have no idea how much preload this would be but I see this being a common guess when using the LS7 lifters.
Old 02-28-2010, 04:27 PM
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Many adjustable pushrod length checkers have hash marks denoting the length in .050" increments. The Comp Cams one I use is 6.800" when tightened all the way down, and you adjust it to where there is no vertical slack in the valvetrain on the basecircle of the cam to read its measurement. If it shows 10 hash mark lines (10 x .050 = .500") then the length with no preload is 7.300", add your preload to that (say .050" preload) and this number is your desired pushrod length - 7.350"

You can use a dial indicator with a non-adjustable known length pushrod as well in the same manner. The difference being you need a pushrod pretty close to what is needed. I often do this with oddbad combinations that require pushrods in the 8.0-8.2 range.
Old 02-28-2010, 04:57 PM
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25 mm to a inch.divide 1 by 25 and get .040 for every 1 mm.most people state lifter preload should be .050-.080. 1.5 turns reaching 22lbs should preload the lifter correctly.
Old 02-28-2010, 05:05 PM
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Okay, so I should put in the adjustable pushrod with it screwed all the way in (shortest position) and then tighten the bolt to 22ft-lbs. Then I can adjust the pushrod so there is no slack. Once this is done then I add the desired preload by counting hashmarks on the adjustable pushrod. Finally, measure the pushrod and this is the length that I should get. Are all of these steps correct?
Old 02-28-2010, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by garygnu
25 mm to a inch.divide 1 by 25 and get .040 for every 1 mm.most people state lifter preload should be .050-.080. 1.5 turns reaching 22lbs should preload the lifter correctly.
0.040 X 2.7/1.7 is the correct way. You have to account for rocker ratio. However, this is from zero lash until the rocker seats, you can't count for the tightening of the bolt beyond rocker seating as the rocker is not moving.
Old 02-28-2010, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by cals400ex
Okay, so I should put in the adjustable pushrod with it screwed all the way in (shortest position) and then tighten the bolt to 22ft-lbs. Then I can adjust the pushrod so there is no slack. Once this is done then I add the desired preload by counting hashmarks on the adjustable pushrod. Finally, measure the pushrod and this is the length that I should get. Are all of these steps correct?
Here is how to use the adjustable pushrod. Link
Old 02-28-2010, 08:07 PM
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Why do you not need to torque the bolt down, but only snug it when you are checking for the length? I would think torquing it would change the overall length.
Old 02-28-2010, 08:20 PM
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The change from hand tight/snug to full torque is not very much a few thousandths. Torqueing them would get the measurement more precise if you want to get your preload to the thousandth. Most of the time preload is fine if it falls within a certain range ,not as critical as lets say bearing clearances etc.
Old 02-28-2010, 09:17 PM
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Also, my heads are setup for 3/8" pushrods. I believe the adjustable pushrod I have is a comp one. I think these are 5/16." Do I need to get a 3/8" adjustable pushrod to check for preload? Or I know comp makes 3/8" pushrods with a 5/16" ends. Thanks for the suggestions.
Old 02-28-2010, 09:20 PM
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The ends should all be the same size so the only difference would be clearance thru the PR hole in the head (wich you state your heads are setup for).
Old 03-01-2010, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by cals400ex
Why do you not need to torque the bolt down, but only snug it when you are checking for the length? I would think torquing it would change the overall length.
Two things happen when you tighten the bolt. First, you draw the rocker down until it contacts the support and can't move any more. At this point, further tightening preloads the bolt. With aluminum threads, it is best not to keep loading to full torque multiple times as you go through the procedure to figure out the length of the pushrod. In this case, the change in measurement is small if at all.
Old 03-01-2010, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
. further tightening preloads the bolt. With aluminum threads, it is best not to keep loading to full torque multiple times.
This is also an EXCELLENT point!
Old 02-17-2011, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
Here is how to use the adjustable pushrod. Link
I have a question about this link. is this method better done with a stock lifter or a solid lifter? i figured the lifter may collapse showing you a longer pushrod that my may need???? or is it fine to do it either way?
Old 03-19-2011, 11:23 AM
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If you're just using your fingers to lengthen the pushrod checker and keep checking length as you extend it, you shouldn't compress your lifter. If you start with the checker extended too far, then you could compress a lifter which is why you should start with it short and turn to extend.
Old 03-19-2011, 11:27 AM
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Excellent info gentleman........ That i will be using while setting up my lsx.
Old 03-19-2011, 12:07 PM
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i used this info when i put the pushrods in my car for the first time. everything turned out great. the motor sounds and runs good.
Old 04-05-2011, 05:52 AM
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Awesome info, im going to check mine again



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