short block advise needed. Come on In
#1
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short block advise needed. Come on In
Ok so here is the deal. My motor probably has a spun bearing or something of that nature. I am in the process of tearing it down and then will pull out the short block when its ready. I would really love to buy a new short block (383, 402,408,etc) but the budget just isnt there right now.
That leads me to my next thought. Could I just take my block have it stripped down, keep the stock crank and throw in forged rods, forged pistons etc while still being on a budget? Also what kind of compression could I run with a 150 wet shot on pump gas? I was also going to use a patriot ls6 head or a prc ls6 head or the 5.3s. And get rid of the 224 cam Ive got now for something a little more agressive. Ive already got a ls6 intake and a ported TB. What size injectors should I consider and what kind of fuel pump. This is not a daily driver by any means, just a fun weekend toy. Oh and let me know what you guys think it would cost me do have the short block assembled. I can do the rest myself...
So once again here is the break down
Keep the stock block and just put new internals
bump compression to say 11 to 11.5
ls6 or 5.3 heads
keep the 150 wet shot ive got now
different cam
Thanks for the imput guys.
That leads me to my next thought. Could I just take my block have it stripped down, keep the stock crank and throw in forged rods, forged pistons etc while still being on a budget? Also what kind of compression could I run with a 150 wet shot on pump gas? I was also going to use a patriot ls6 head or a prc ls6 head or the 5.3s. And get rid of the 224 cam Ive got now for something a little more agressive. Ive already got a ls6 intake and a ported TB. What size injectors should I consider and what kind of fuel pump. This is not a daily driver by any means, just a fun weekend toy. Oh and let me know what you guys think it would cost me do have the short block assembled. I can do the rest myself...
So once again here is the break down
Keep the stock block and just put new internals
bump compression to say 11 to 11.5
ls6 or 5.3 heads
keep the 150 wet shot ive got now
different cam
Thanks for the imput guys.
#2
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Yes you can reuse your stock crank, if its not destroyed cost about 150 dollars to have it cut and polished, forged rods from 450-1200 dollars depending on what you want, forged pistons expect to pay at least 600 dollars, new bearings about 120, new oil pump 130+or- , I would really inspect the cam, and disassemble the lifters, becuase I am sure that there is metal in them if the car spun a bearing, Here are some of the prices I paid, I am finishing my 383 short block
Hone the block and have the main aligment checked ( it needed work) 385.00
Have my stroker crank polished and checked for straightness 110.00
have my rotating assembly balanced 220.00
thats just the machining work
I have heard of reputable shops doing the assembly of the short block for as low as 250.00
If you do decide to do this I would go for a stock crank kit I have seen them on ebay with the bearings for around 200 dollars Then its all up to what you want to spend,, I have seen rotating kits from alot of our sponsors that go for around 1500 that includes the crank rods pistons and bearings, but you still need to have it balanced and have the machine work done. If you are looking for a cheap way out, your best bet may be to buy a short block off of someone, I seen a short block with 30k miles on this site go for 800 shipped. Or you can buy a new short block they go for about 2500 on up,
injectors I would go with a 42 lb, that is more than you need,, but gives you some room to grow, You will need to have it tuned anyways. and for a pump I would go with the walbro or racetronix kit. Hope this helps I know exactly what all this costs, I am just finishing my setup, and have too much money in it, But I went with a callies racemaster crank and the callies rods, wiseco pistons and king bearings, $$$$$$$.
Hope this helps
Hone the block and have the main aligment checked ( it needed work) 385.00
Have my stroker crank polished and checked for straightness 110.00
have my rotating assembly balanced 220.00
thats just the machining work
I have heard of reputable shops doing the assembly of the short block for as low as 250.00
If you do decide to do this I would go for a stock crank kit I have seen them on ebay with the bearings for around 200 dollars Then its all up to what you want to spend,, I have seen rotating kits from alot of our sponsors that go for around 1500 that includes the crank rods pistons and bearings, but you still need to have it balanced and have the machine work done. If you are looking for a cheap way out, your best bet may be to buy a short block off of someone, I seen a short block with 30k miles on this site go for 800 shipped. Or you can buy a new short block they go for about 2500 on up,
injectors I would go with a 42 lb, that is more than you need,, but gives you some room to grow, You will need to have it tuned anyways. and for a pump I would go with the walbro or racetronix kit. Hope this helps I know exactly what all this costs, I am just finishing my setup, and have too much money in it, But I went with a callies racemaster crank and the callies rods, wiseco pistons and king bearings, $$$$$$$.
Hope this helps
#3
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Im not sure if this applies with these ls6 motors as I have never built one from the ground up, but it does apply to the old SBC and is probably still relevant. Shouldn't he get his crank turned before buying bearings? Because if he spun a bearing its likely that his crank is pretty scared up and might have to be cut down a good bit and he have to buy oversized bearings (if they even make such a thing for ls motors, people do it all the time in the SBC world though).
#4
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Yes, thats what I was telling him, if his crank can be turned down, he will have to buy bearings, but I can not specify to him what size bearings to buy, only the machinist can, because only he knows how much he has to cut the crank, could be 10 -30 over. But the crank kit I was referring to comes with bearings to match the crank. And yes the buildup of the ls motors has alot in common with the gen1 sbc engine. They make oversized bearings for these.
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Thanks guys for the replys. I got a quote to forge my shortblock it was in the neighborhood of 2500 or so with good parts and fully assembled.
But one of my good buddies just called me a little while ago saying he has a low mileage LQ9 motor with 317 heads 10.75 compression ratio he will let go for like 1500 or so. I might just do that for now, throw a different cam in it with new gaskets and such and when the money is there I can build that motor instead of the 5.7. We will see though
But one of my good buddies just called me a little while ago saying he has a low mileage LQ9 motor with 317 heads 10.75 compression ratio he will let go for like 1500 or so. I might just do that for now, throw a different cam in it with new gaskets and such and when the money is there I can build that motor instead of the 5.7. We will see though