Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

I have been using GC 0w30 for years but will switch soon because my new job sells RP for a few dollars less (cost +5%) than GC. What weight and version does everyone use in their D/D LS1?

Thanks.

Bill

99T/AMAN

iTrader: (1)

5w30 is what i have been using and love it!!!

Mr. Luos

iTrader: (9)

I personally wouldn't use Royal Purple.
Heard from those that have had UOA's done on it that it breaks down under heat....easily.

superman2002

have used rp for 5yrs on my 2002 Z-28, 2002 silverado 1500hd which does all the pulling of the trailer for the z to the track both running 5w30 both run great wouldn't run anything else my last camaro was 607rwhp and ran it for over 100 thousand miles with no problems

slipstream1

We have used RP 20W50 on our dirt cars for years. After a season of racing, inside of the motors still looks like new.

355TurboLT1

iTrader: (11)

For your application any oil will work fine. The Royal Purple has been shown (its well documented) to shear down from a 30wt to a 20wt. This can be a problem from a lubrication standpoint. Royal Purple also lost a suit that was brought by british petroleum siting false claims and adverising involving RP's products. There are better synthetics out there. But if you wish to run it you should be fine as long as you follow a good OCI.

transamfreak01

iTrader: (8)

there was a thread a little while back about RP and from what that said they changed whats in it and made it a cheaper product to make more money. try a search on that and see what comes up. but i still hear a lot of people out there that use this.

02*C5

iTrader: (1)

I used RP for years starting back in 06, I then started to use Castrol Edge (CE). I can say this. I tried using RP again this last time around and I seem to notice that when the car starts to get hot the car does not perform the same. Now the oil has only about 500 mile on it but I am about to change back to CE on Friday. Not only that but I will not use RP again.
CE for me from now on.

355TurboLT1

iTrader: (11)

As others have mentioned there are much better offerings out there. If looking at only over the counter oils look to castol or valvoline, and if special order Redline or motul as they are the only two polyol ester based oils left= True Synthetics. Good luck!

AES Racing

iTrader: (6)

10W40 for a OE LS shorblock

20W50 if it has a forged crank with Clevite H bearings, or atleast ones from us

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

Pretty sure Amsoil 0w30 sso is still poly ester based also. I use it and its great stuff UOAs come out great.

355TurboLT1

iTrader: (11)

Amsoil SSO is a group IV/V mix. It contains very little group V( in this case POE) than that of redline or motul. Still a great oil. I have used it in the past, but prefer redine as it has proven itself in racing environments time and again. You have to take the additive pack into consideration as well. For the life of me I cant see why anyone running a LS series motor with stock clearances would want to run a 20w-50! I hope you guys are pre-heating that syrup. My reasoning here is not only is it very viscous and hard to cirulate cold but most all OTC oils and even some syns contain a butt load of VII's(viscosity index improvers) when they experience heat(ie ring packs) they solidify and create carbon(ring sticking) and are just not a good thing from a lubrication standpoint. If you really understand how viscosity works you would soon realize that a 20w-50 is simply not needed and in many cases is hurting, not helping. If we are talking race motors then I see what you guys are taling about.

tillery

iTrader: (4)

Yea RP has changed or I thought it was me seeing that. I used to run it but instead of say 5-20. I ran 10-40 cause it seemed lighter than advertised.

Wesmanw02

iTrader: (4)

RP doesn't even meet the lastest API spec. That basically means the company couldn't give less of a **** about quality, they are all about brand image.

I'd stay away from RP.

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

I would agree with that, race motor with engine builder know oil cleanrances that could recommend the right vicosity, but a 50 weight will just bring higher oil temps and no pumpabilty thus not being able to get to critical parts, I just stay with the recommended weight the builder says to use, Gm built my motor so 30 weight it is.

AES Racing

iTrader: (6)

Royal Purple winter grade oils ie 10W30
are API certified. However I question how tightly regulated
API is, thats another argument though.

I've had Royal Purple samples analyzed, nothing out of the ordinary, its a great oil for 3,000 miles or less.

355TurboLT1

iTrader: (11)

You bring up a great point AES. API has its own interests and is by nature biased. Most of the testing they do is sound, for the most part. Here is the thing though, just because you dont pay them thousands to validate your oil certainly does not mean that it will not out perform all of the "certified" oils. Many blenders like redline and amsoil do there own SAE tests in house. Just because its not API only means they are not willing to spend valuable R&D money (being they are smaller) on some group who dictates who gets the gold seal of approval.