Eagle LS7 crank into LQ4?
03-16-2010, 04:08 AM
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Eagle LS7 crank into LQ4? I have a new ESP-434640006100 crank whick is not straight and called to my parts vendor and he suggested that he would change it to ESP-442740006100.
Now the question is, could the LS7 crank be used in LQ4 block? I know the differences are 58th reluctorwheel and longer snout. RW could be changed to 24th, but is it possible to cut the snout to normal LQ4 specs?
Or should I just demand a another crank?
Now the question is, could the LS7 crank be used in LQ4 block? I know the differences are 58th reluctorwheel and longer snout. RW could be changed to 24th, but is it possible to cut the snout to normal LQ4 specs?
Or should I just demand a another crank?
03-16-2010, 05:01 AM
#2
The LS7 can be machined down.
How is your new Crank not straight..what happened to it? How far off it is?
I spun a Bearing and it threw my Crank out of true, the Machine Shop turned it back to true, I just use over-size Bearings now. That may be cheaper than having to get a new Crank.
Another thing too..why is your Vender suggesting something that you don't even need?
How is your new Crank not straight..what happened to it? How far off it is?
I spun a Bearing and it threw my Crank out of true, the Machine Shop turned it back to true, I just use over-size Bearings now. That may be cheaper than having to get a new Crank.
Another thing too..why is your Vender suggesting something that you don't even need?
03-16-2010, 05:29 AM
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I think the biggest problem is that I'm from Finland and my vendor is small local speedshop which don't have capabilities to send defective parts back to US. So he is now trying to settle my situation by offering in trade something he has in stock.
My cranks rearjournal is off like 4 thousands (0,1mm) so it throws the rear flange about the same. This is measured on the block, crank resting on bearings #2 and #3. When I torqued the maincaps down, it somehow straightened the crank and it turned much better and the throwing went to about 0,00118" (0,03mm). I think this would be acceptable on 400hp engine but I'm aiming to 1000-1200hp with a turbo so basics should be very clear and solid.
My cranks rearjournal is off like 4 thousands (0,1mm) so it throws the rear flange about the same. This is measured on the block, crank resting on bearings #2 and #3. When I torqued the maincaps down, it somehow straightened the crank and it turned much better and the throwing went to about 0,00118" (0,03mm). I think this would be acceptable on 400hp engine but I'm aiming to 1000-1200hp with a turbo so basics should be very clear and solid.
03-16-2010, 12:30 PM
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No. We have only reindeers and santa claus here 
Seriously, the remachining would be too costly because turning the journals won't correct the problem fully, the rearflange has to be corrected too.
One of my friends had an sb chrysler eagle crank which was like banana. My friend corrected it on the floor with a BIG sledgehammer... I don't have enough courage to treat my crank like that.
Kurt, that was just what I wanted to know, so the LS7 crank will be an option.
Seriously, the remachining would be too costly because turning the journals won't correct the problem fully, the rearflange has to be corrected too.
One of my friends had an sb chrysler eagle crank which was like banana. My friend corrected it on the floor with a BIG sledgehammer... I don't have enough courage to treat my crank like that.
Kurt, that was just what I wanted to know, so the LS7 crank will be an option.
