LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I did a search on this but had no luck.

I am doing a H/C/I/E swap on my car at the moment. I am using GM MLS gaskets.

I used a razor blade gasket scraper to get most of the old gasket material off the block but there was still some on it. I got a 3M roloc plastic buffer wheel that's suppose to be safe for aluminum. Everything is cleaned up now and I just want t make sure I don't need anything else.

Is any copper coat required? Compression will be right at 11.5:1 and I will be spraying no more than 150 on it. I am also using ARP bolts.

Thanks for any help.

Jason

David Q

I used the same plastic/rubber buffing wheel and got it clean, then installed the gaskets dry( no silicon or copper gasket spray) and everything came out good. Just make sure all the bolt holes are free of dirt and water, you will run into big problems if there is any water in the holes. Make sure to use new head bolts. I followed the torque sequence on "LS1 How To" and it worked. I was for sure I was going to break every bolt, but that is how tight they need to be to stretch the bolts.What head/cam combo did you go with?

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I normally chase the bolt holes out to clean the threads up. But these damn things are so deep in the block I don't see how I could do it. I thought about using a die grinder and cutting a slit long ways in the threads to clean them up but I was afraid I would do more damage than good. I have blown them out several times.

I went with TEA 5.3 stage 1.5 heads and a 226/230 .598/.600 112+2 cam from EPS.

Squirts11

iTrader: (14)

Use compressed air to blow out some of the coolant from the bolt holes, then thread paper towels into the holes to get any remaining liquid. Don't want to crack the block...

Nitroused383

iTrader: (10)

Shoot for an Ra (roughness average) of 15-30 microinches

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...nt_update.aspx

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti..._finishes.aspx

89tang

iTrader: (15)

I used a sanding/buffing wheel also puts a nice surface on the block. For the bolt holes i took an old headbolt and grinded down a couple sides of it and chased down the holes then used compressed air and ALOT of paper towels to make sure it was dry and clean. That is the only thing i had about these damn LS1's is replacing the heads it takes forever to get all the water and debris out of the holes.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

I dont have that problem with the bolt holes because I always hook a shop vac up and suck the motor dry. Heads come off and water is no where to be seen.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

First time I used a miti-vac to clear the bolt holes. ARP makes a thread chaser for the head bolt holes, not cheap though. Don't use a tap. I checked my block when it was done and for the most part it was around 25 Ra. Those areas that were higher I touched up.

bene

iTrader: (16)

This is an excellent post! I'll be looking at this when I get the engine apart doing my H/C project.

NVR_SPDS

iTrader: (39)

A really good way to ensure all the bolt holes are dry, is to use compressed air. Get a nozzle with a thin, flexible line that will reach down to the bottom of the hole. Quick shot of carb cleaner, then blow the hell out of the hole.. They will be dry.