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Does grinding down ls6 intake ribs make it weak enough to crack?

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Old 05-10-2010, 11:40 PM
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Default Does grinding down ls6 intake ribs make it weak enough to crack?

Hey guys,

This weekend I ground down the ribs on my ls6 intake to fit the stock ls1.

I was just wondering if anyone has seen an intake crack or break because of this?

( Not running FI )
Old 05-10-2010, 11:44 PM
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no !!!!!!!!
Old 05-10-2010, 11:51 PM
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Since the ls6 intake swap was the first mod I did, I guess at the time I didn't feel comfortable grinding down the tabs.

Now, I'd have no problem doing it, but I'm glad I bought the ls6 coolant crossover tube/plugs, as they're considered a superior design.

You'll be fine either way.
Old 05-10-2010, 11:54 PM
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ok sweet !

What about on FI applications ?
Old 05-11-2010, 12:00 AM
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Screw Grinding it down! Much easier/quicker and can be neat too to just take a wood chisel and a small hammer and just lightly whack it on an angle where you want the ribs to disappear, nothing to it.
Old 05-11-2010, 12:14 AM
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thats pushing it .consider a weiand or TBK intake.
Old 05-11-2010, 05:37 AM
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The ribs are casting ribs. They are there to keep the intake from shifting during the manufacturing process and are what was used to align the intake when they mated the top to the bottom. Just like the casting tabs on your block, they serve no purpose to the finish peice.
Old 05-11-2010, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
The ribs are casting ribs. They are there to keep the intake from shifting during the manufacturing process and are what was used to align the intake when they mated the top to the bottom. Just like the casting tabs on your block, they serve no purpose to the finish peice.

Ohh now I see, so I could still use my ground down intake if I ever go FI right?


also does anyone know if that bottom plate of the intake serves a purpose? I kind of nicked it with the grinder in a few spots, not bad at all but took maybe
.020 of material off by accident.
Old 05-11-2010, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by squirts11
Since the ls6 intake swap was the first mod I did, I guess at the time I didn't feel comfortable grinding down the tabs.

Now, I'd have no problem doing it, but I'm glad I bought the ls6 coolant crossover tube/plugs, as they're considered a superior design.

You'll be fine either way.
thats debatable...ive seen the #7 hole get hot because of the lack of coolant flow back there...

personally, id rather grind the ribs down or make my own coolant lines out of AN fittings and some braided line.
Old 05-11-2010, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 99'CajunFirehawk157
Screw Grinding it down! Much easier/quicker and can be neat too to just take a wood chisel and a small hammer and just lightly whack it on an angle where you want the ribs to disappear, nothing to it.
+1....chisel works much better....i tried both....funny thing is i didn't even have a chisel so i made one with an old screwdriver and a grinder....worked like a charm
Old 05-11-2010, 01:57 PM
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I used the wood chisel on mine also and haven't had any issues with it
Old 05-11-2010, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by bww3588
thats debatable...ive seen the #7 hole get hot because of the lack of coolant flow back there...

personally, id rather grind the ribs down or make my own coolant lines out of AN fittings and some braided line.
Interesting, as that's the first I've heard of that. Good to know.

I guess I would have ended up needing to buy the ls6 lines/plugs anyway, as the FAST 92/92 I'm about to install wouldn't have fit over the ls1 coolant tube, correct?
Old 05-11-2010, 02:24 PM
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I ground mine down with no problems.
Old 05-11-2010, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by bww3588
thats debatable...ive seen the #7 hole get hot because of the lack of coolant flow back there...personally, id rather grind the ribs down or make my own coolant lines out of AN fittings and some braided line.
Cheaper route is 2ea ls6 front steam tubes, 1ea brass T fitting and 4ft 1/4 fuel line and some hose clamps, works just like original LS1 configuration and no # 7 concerns.
Old 05-11-2010, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 99'CajunFirehawk157
Cheaper route is 2ea ls6 front steam tubes, 1ea brass T fitting and 4ft 1/4 fuel line and some hose clamps, works just like original LS1 configuration and no # 7 concerns.
agreed, i just get AN happy sometimes.
Old 05-11-2010, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 99'CajunFirehawk157
Cheaper route is 2ea ls6 front steam tubes, 1ea brass T fitting and 4ft 1/4 fuel line and some hose clamps, works just like original LS1 configuration and no # 7 concerns.
yep....something about blocking off coolant tubes in an all aluminum motor just didn't seem right to me....definitely knock off the ribs or build it with things like this to flow like it should.
Old 05-12-2010, 06:19 PM
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yeah i ground mine down 2 years ago to keep the stock coolant tubes and havent had any issues. I did that because i heard of the #7 getting hot also



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