HS roller rocker install.
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HS roller rocker install.
I'll be installing a new cam with Harland Sharp roller rockers.
Harland Sharp recommends ½ turn from zero lash with roller rockers. The stock rockers require ¾ to 1 turn from zero.
There is also the torque setting method, which on our cars I’ve seen 22 to 45 lbs. I’m confused.
But, since I'll be going with the rollers my feeling is to do the zero lash method.
Any advice on this would be appreciated.
Also, should I worry about having shims available since it will be done on a weekend 60 miles from home.
Harland Sharp recommends ½ turn from zero lash with roller rockers. The stock rockers require ¾ to 1 turn from zero.
There is also the torque setting method, which on our cars I’ve seen 22 to 45 lbs. I’m confused.
But, since I'll be going with the rollers my feeling is to do the zero lash method.
Any advice on this would be appreciated.
Also, should I worry about having shims available since it will be done on a weekend 60 miles from home.
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Its not 22-45 ft/lbs its 22-25 ft/lbs. If you were to torque the rocker bolts to 45 ft/lbs you would either strip them out or break them off!!!
Stock rocker arm torque is 22 ft/lbs with 3/4-1 turn from zero lash. Yella Terra recommends 25 ft/lbs with the same lash. I heard that Harland does not ship shims because they are not needed.
Stock rocker arm torque is 22 ft/lbs with 3/4-1 turn from zero lash. Yella Terra recommends 25 ft/lbs with the same lash. I heard that Harland does not ship shims because they are not needed.
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Originally Posted by BergerMan
Its not 22-45 ft/lbs its 22-25 ft/lbs. If you were to torque the rocker bolts to 45 ft/lbs you would either strip them out or break them off!!!
Stock rocker arm torque is 22 ft/lbs with 3/4-1 turn from zero lash. Yella Terra recommends 25 ft/lbs with the same lash. I heard that Harland does not ship shims because they are not needed.
Stock rocker arm torque is 22 ft/lbs with 3/4-1 turn from zero lash. Yella Terra recommends 25 ft/lbs with the same lash. I heard that Harland does not ship shims because they are not needed.
So, I would guess if we set up the HS rockers per their TechTips they would torque under 22 lbs.
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comp R
Joe
I would like to get in on this also ,I just can't get a good answer.
Does anyone have the int and exhaust shaft (YT OR HS ) system with COMP R Lifters.
I have .040 difference between the exhaust and intake valve stem.
How can this work without adjustable rockers .
Shims adjust both at the same time ,correct?
One will be loose if the longer valve is the one the shims are set for.
Or if it is done the other way the valve will hang open ?
I would like to get in on this also ,I just can't get a good answer.
Does anyone have the int and exhaust shaft (YT OR HS ) system with COMP R Lifters.
I have .040 difference between the exhaust and intake valve stem.
How can this work without adjustable rockers .
Shims adjust both at the same time ,correct?
One will be loose if the longer valve is the one the shims are set for.
Or if it is done the other way the valve will hang open ?
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If you have 2 differant valve stem leangths than you will be needing adjustable rockers.
I haven`t needed any shims yet. Install them per Harlands instructions and you will be OK.
Nate
I haven`t needed any shims yet. Install them per Harlands instructions and you will be OK.
Nate
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Originally Posted by Nasty N8
If you have 2 differant valve stem leangths than you will be needing adjustable rockers.
I haven`t needed any shims yet. Install them per Harlands instructions and you will be OK.
Nate
I haven`t needed any shims yet. Install them per Harlands instructions and you will be OK.
Nate
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Anyone got any answers to this difference in valve measurements? I have the YT and I am going to be putting in Comp R lifters. I wouldn't expect a difference in the measurement. What could cause that if the PR are identical lengths? I would expect And are adjustables rockers the only way to correct this?
I would think you would need to make sure the lifters are bleed all the way down before setting the valve lash. Is that correct?
I would think you would need to make sure the lifters are bleed all the way down before setting the valve lash. Is that correct?
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#9
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tech tips vs. LS1 specs
Just thought of this. The HS site tech tips all revolve around the SB chev/ford stuff. But The LS1 is just about a completely different monster. I would almost want to say that you should do it like you were putting in new stock rockers. Since these are a direct replacement for the stocker why would you not follow the same instructions for a stock rocker.
when I had my old cars that had SB motors I always did the "tighten till it stops ticking and then 1/2 turn". That seems to be what HS is recommending on the tech tips. But the LS1 requires specific TQ specs to work properly. I am not saying this would not work on our cars but since these are stock replacements.............see where I am going with this one.
when I had my old cars that had SB motors I always did the "tighten till it stops ticking and then 1/2 turn". That seems to be what HS is recommending on the tech tips. But the LS1 requires specific TQ specs to work properly. I am not saying this would not work on our cars but since these are stock replacements.............see where I am going with this one.
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Originally Posted by Nasty N8
1/2 turn is perfect if you are doing Comp r lifters than I would do about 0-1/4"
Nate
Nate
With shaft rockers they must be set at 22lb ft and with different valve stem heights this might be a problem with comp r lifters because of the close +0 +.010
Preload
Is this what you are saying Nate
John
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Nate was telling you how many turns you should have from 0 lash to "tight". No matter what, you have to hit 22 lb/ft, but if it takes you 3 turns to get there from 0 lash, that is no good!