engine failure after rebuild
05-19-2010, 08:43 PM
#1
engine failure after rebuild had to rebuild my motor 2 times. losing oil pressure after i try laying into the throttle. have had 2 different machine shops work on it. it appears the thrust bearing is being taken out.....like the crankshaft is being pushed forward and causing excessive heat and causing bearing failure.
I have a vigilante converter and it has anti-ballooning plate. i was also told that to much line pressure in the transmission could cause this problem. using factory crank, compstar rods and H series bearings. Using arp main studs and block was not line honed. Engine failed both time in about a week any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
check mods on SIG.
I have a vigilante converter and it has anti-ballooning plate. i was also told that to much line pressure in the transmission could cause this problem. using factory crank, compstar rods and H series bearings. Using arp main studs and block was not line honed. Engine failed both time in about a week any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
check mods on SIG.
05-19-2010, 08:51 PM
#2
had to rebuild my motor 2 times. losing oil pressure after i try laying into the throttle. have had 2 different machine shops work on it. it appears the thrust bearing is being taken out.....like the crankshaft is being pushed forward and causing excessive heat and causing bearing failure.
I have a vigilante converter and it has anti-ballooning plate. i was also told that to much line pressure in the transmission could cause this problem. using factory crank, compstar rods and H series bearings. Using arp main studs and block was not line honed. Engine failed both time in about a week any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
check mods on SIG.
I have a vigilante converter and it has anti-ballooning plate. i was also told that to much line pressure in the transmission could cause this problem. using factory crank, compstar rods and H series bearings. Using arp main studs and block was not line honed. Engine failed both time in about a week any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
check mods on SIG.
All joking aside, I think I'll let a more experienced member try and legitimately help you. Sorry to hear.
05-19-2010, 11:07 PM
#3
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When the trans and converter is installed, does the converter have to pulled forward in order to bolt it the flywheel?
You cannot do this!
Originally Posted by jjcamaro02
Using arp main studs and block was not line honed.
05-20-2010, 06:58 AM
#5
I was told it would not,trans is the only thing that could cause this problem. To much line pressure could push the converter forward taking out the bearings.I would like to know if this happened to anyone else.
05-20-2010, 07:11 AM
#6
I was also under the impression that swapping out main bolts for studs without a line hone was a no no. I was always told if using studs a line hone is a very important step in the engine build to ensure everything is straight after the studs are torqued.
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05-20-2010, 04:37 PM
#8
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Yes a converter can cause thrust issues if the tolerances are not correct. Does the converter hub correctly fit into the back of the crank and is the flexplate to converter feet spacing correct?
05-20-2010, 07:52 PM
#10
A cheap converter ballooned and wrecked the engine in my son's 383" MCSS. Accelerating or decelerating was fine, but steady-state cruise sounded like a hammer toss.
On the line bore, I have built a dozen or so engines and have swapped the bolts for studs on two of them. No line bore and no problems. That doesn't mean it won't happen, but if you can fully torque the mains and have proper bearing clearances, thrust, and be able to freely spin the crank, I can't see a problem with that...
On the line bore, I have built a dozen or so engines and have swapped the bolts for studs on two of them. No line bore and no problems. That doesn't mean it won't happen, but if you can fully torque the mains and have proper bearing clearances, thrust, and be able to freely spin the crank, I can't see a problem with that...
05-20-2010, 07:59 PM
#11
A cheap converter ballooned and wrecked the engine in my son's 383" MCSS. Accelerating or decelerating was fine, but steady-state cruise sounded like a hammer toss.
On the line bore, I have built a dozen or so engines and have swapped the bolts for studs on two of them. No line bore and no problems. That doesn't mean it won't happen, but if you can fully torque the mains and have proper bearing clearances, thrust, and be able to freely spin the crank, I can't see a problem with that...
On the line bore, I have built a dozen or so engines and have swapped the bolts for studs on two of them. No line bore and no problems. That doesn't mean it won't happen, but if you can fully torque the mains and have proper bearing clearances, thrust, and be able to freely spin the crank, I can't see a problem with that...
05-20-2010, 08:07 PM
#12
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Here is a great read on converter installation. Not trying to say you dont know this already but a good read on insuring proper converter seating.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...allations.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...allations.html
05-20-2010, 08:51 PM
#13
Here is a great read on converter installation. Not trying to say you dont know this already but a good read on insuring proper converter seating.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...allations.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...allations.html
05-21-2010, 08:11 AM
#14
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Again, thats a great article above, however, I would measure the converter front snout and the inside bore of the crank to verify they can mate properly and not bind. What kind of flexplate were you running?
05-21-2010, 06:03 PM
#15
TCI same flexplate that i used last year with the trans and converter. Man this is driving me nuts trying to find out whats going wrong. When i get the engine back from the machine shop i will sure the converter fits ok in the crank.
05-22-2010, 02:33 AM
#16
Ok pilgrim let me explain this as simple as can bee. GET the trans fixed! There is nothing wrong with the engine UNLESS there is a burr on the crank that is ruining the bearing surface which i doubt.
Your trans is pushing too hard on your crank. Don't run this until you get the trans looked at.
Your trans is pushing too hard on your crank. Don't run this until you get the trans looked at.
05-22-2010, 02:25 PM
#18
Ok pilgrim let me explain this as simple as can bee. GET the trans fixed! There is nothing wrong with the engine UNLESS there is a burr on the crank that is ruining the bearing surface which i doubt.
Your trans is pushing too hard on your crank. Don't run this until you get the trans looked at.
Your trans is pushing too hard on your crank. Don't run this until you get the trans looked at.
