Stripped a rod bolt to hell
#1
Stripped a rod bolt to hell
So im swapping rod bolts for arp ones, and i do 15 of them and when i get to the 16th one, my hand slips and strips the bolt pretty bad. im so freakin pissed. the motor is out of the car and on an engine stand. i tried using a vice grip but it just stripped it even more. i tried to get a smaller socket and hammer it on, but that still isnt working. tried a chisel and hammer, but that scared me and gave up on that. a couple of ideas i have gotten is:
1) jb weld the socket on the bolt and then go at it the next day
2) use a screw extractor like this one: http://www.lowes.com/pd_232656-1083-...xtractor%20Set
3) saw a slot into the bolt for a large straight screwdriver to go and then try getting it out that way (my fathers idea)
4) grind/file the sides down enough to get a smaller socket on it
this bolt is pissing me off so much, i just want to go at it with an air chisel. the problem is the bolt is so soft, it just strips so easily. any input would be appreciated.
1) jb weld the socket on the bolt and then go at it the next day
2) use a screw extractor like this one: http://www.lowes.com/pd_232656-1083-...xtractor%20Set
3) saw a slot into the bolt for a large straight screwdriver to go and then try getting it out that way (my fathers idea)
4) grind/file the sides down enough to get a smaller socket on it
this bolt is pissing me off so much, i just want to go at it with an air chisel. the problem is the bolt is so soft, it just strips so easily. any input would be appreciated.
#2
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I think that if using vise grips didnt work then the bolt is probably considerably tight. you should cut the head off of the bolt and use those screw extractors that you have pictured. Or undo the other rod bolt after cutting the head off the other, pull the cap, and use visegrips on the rest of the stud sitting there.
Good luck
Good luck
#4
You can also torch the bolt. I was rebuilding a motor from a boat with a friend and a waterpump bolt twisted the head of. We torched it and sprayed some pb blaster on it and worked it out.
Good luck
Good luck
#5
I think that if using vise grips didnt work then the bolt is probably considerably tight. you should cut the head off of the bolt and use those screw extractors that you have pictured. Or undo the other rod bolt after cutting the head off the other, pull the cap, and use visegrips on the rest of the stud sitting there.
Good luck
Good luck
and the heads are off the motor also. i dont want the piston to come out. that would suck.
#7
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I think that if using vise grips didnt work then the bolt is probably considerably tight. you should cut the head off of the bolt and use those screw extractors that you have pictured. Or undo the other rod bolt after cutting the head off the other, pull the cap, and use visegrips on the rest of the stud sitting there.
Good luck
Good luck
Cut the head of the bolt off and remove the other, take the cap off and the stud thats left over should come right out with vice grips. Once the head of the bolt is off there shouldn't be any more tention on the threads, it might thread out with your fingers. Just make sure to cover and mask off every thing before grinding so you don't get **** all through the moter.
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#8
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i thought i couldnt pull the cap off without having the motor remachined. i thought the whole point of installing one rod bolt at a time was cuz of this. if i took both rod bolts out and then the cap, wouldnt that make that method useless?
and the heads are off the motor also. i dont want the piston to come out. that would suck.
and the heads are off the motor also. i dont want the piston to come out. that would suck.
#9
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i thought i couldnt pull the cap off without having the motor remachined. i thought the whole point of installing one rod bolt at a time was cuz of this. if i took both rod bolts out and then the cap, wouldnt that make that method useless?
and the heads are off the motor also. i dont want the piston to come out. that would suck.
and the heads are off the motor also. i dont want the piston to come out. that would suck.
#10
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Cut the head of the bolt off and remove the other, take the cap off and the stud thats left over should come right out with vice grips. Once the head of the bolt is off there shouldn't be any more tention on the threads, it might thread out with your fingers. Just make sure to cover and mask off every thing before grinding so you don't get **** all through the moter.
Cut the head of the bolt off and remove the other, take the cap off and the stud thats left over should come right out with vice grips. Once the head of the bolt is off there shouldn't be any more tention on the threads, it might thread out with your fingers. Just make sure to cover and mask off every thing before grinding so you don't get **** all through the moter.
#11
You will be fine doing that. Ive had to do that before with stock ones. Pull one side of the cap off, hack the bolt head off and use vice grips on the remaining bolt. A torch is super super helpful if you have one.
You got it!
BTW if the piston does "FALL" out, you have bigger problems than a rod bolt! lol
You got it!
BTW if the piston does "FALL" out, you have bigger problems than a rod bolt! lol
#12
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I've installed rod bolts the exact same way as you (one at a time) and I've also removed caps to inspect bearings and then reinstall. No problems so far either way. Well unless there was already a problem!!!!
If youre still skeptical, cut the bolt head off, and use the extractor kit. The bolt wont have any torque on it anymore so itll be much easier to remove. Just make sure you don't leave all the metal shavings in there!
If youre still skeptical, cut the bolt head off, and use the extractor kit. The bolt wont have any torque on it anymore so itll be much easier to remove. Just make sure you don't leave all the metal shavings in there!
#17
LSX Mechanic
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I just picked up a kit slightly larger than this one off the Matco truck the other day. These are worth their weight in gold.
To the OP, removing the cap is fine. **** the engine up somewhat sideways on the stand just to insure everything stays still and you don't have gravity pulling on anything.
To the OP, removing the cap is fine. **** the engine up somewhat sideways on the stand just to insure everything stays still and you don't have gravity pulling on anything.
#18
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NEVER, ever, ever use screw or bolt extractors. They don't work. They always break, and CANNOT be drilled out.
Instead, use the removal tool shown above. Works well.
Next time, use the proper tool. The ARP bolts have a 12 point 3/8" head. Most people use metric tools, and a 10mm 12 point will easily round off the head.
Instead, use the removal tool shown above. Works well.
Next time, use the proper tool. The ARP bolts have a 12 point 3/8" head. Most people use metric tools, and a 10mm 12 point will easily round off the head.
#19
so i finally got the bolt out today. what a freakin relief. didnt even have to take off the cap or other rod bolt. i started grinding the head like everyone else said, but i cut it straight down and not grounded it down. once i got down to where i could see the threads, i took a hammer and screwdriver and tried to peal the head off. before i knew it, the bolt started moving on its own. so i just used the the hammer/screwdriver to continue moving it until i could get it completely out by hand. im sure the heat from grinding had something to do with that, like someone suggested above with a torch.