bigfatls6

iTrader: (34)

Does any one have torque specs for using an arp balancer bolt in an ls1? Or link to the specs?

printmanjackson

iTrader: (1)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...que-specs.html

ABQ99TA

iTrader: (17)

190ft with lube

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

There are other threads here that state 240#, I put mine down at 220# which (at the time) was ARP's spec as per their website.

printmanjackson

iTrader: (1)

I suggest the OP or anyone else call ARP instead of posting a thread on here if you have doughts

ABQ99TA

iTrader: (17)

Best advice. I did 190# because Thunder told me but ^^^this is the best way

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

Ive always used an impact and never had a prob. As most do...

The_Rizzle

iTrader: (4)

I found 250 on here when I searched, so I did 250 ft/lbs.

Damian

iTrader: (89)

Hopefully nobody takes this advice. Not good for bearings, and not good for crank threads either. Most of the "I broke my crank bolt" stories come from people using impacts on the crank threads.

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

What bearings come in contact with the balancer?
Its simple... you put the balancer on all the way, then kind of like a lug nut you zip the bolt on..... You dont sit on it with the impact for a duration of time. The balancer bolt is far bigger than a wheel stud... if you break that your obviously doing something wrong. And obviously you dont use the bolt or the threads to draw the balancer onto the crank. THAT is where and how people F^&* it all up. The impact is a tool, knowing how to use it succesfully is awesome.

printmanjackson

iTrader: (1)

sounds like the guys that work at the Nissan Dealership installing cams in LS1's

Cobra4B

iTrader: (9)

It's sad that you get 3 answers from 3 different places that should know. I will say this... the instructions I got with my ATI pin/drill kit say 240 ft/lbs with ARP moly lube. ARP's monly lube directions say to put it on the threads, the backside of the bolt head, and both sides of the washer if there is one.... w/ the LSX there is.

Now if you're pinning the crank you don't need much more than 100 ft/lbs of torque becuase you're not longer relying on the interference fit and the crazy clamp load to hold the balancer in place. Once pinned it cannot rotate and force the bolt to loosen up.

I just installed my 2nd ATI super damper last night (installed one when I put a cam in my old car back in '07) and used an ARP bolt this go around. I used the following procedure.

1. Used my IR impact to get the old crank bolt out

2. Cleaned up the threads and removed the timing cover do do the timing chain and oil pump and drilled for the pin setup

3. Losely installed the timing cover w/ a new front main and red gasket maker on the bottom... had the keyway pin in the crank ready to go

4. Lightly coat the end of the crank w/ anti-seize

5. Thread in threded rod (purchased a homemade pulley install tool off of here)

6. Seated balancer on crank snout, then installed the two washers and nut that were part of the pulley install kit. Used some anti-size on the washer faces.

7. Used a deepwell socket and 1/2" ratchet to seat the balancer w/ the car in 6th gear and back wheels on the ground.

8. Removed balancer install setup then installed old bolt and used my 160 ft/lbs torque wrench and maxed it out then a little more to fully seat the pulley.

9. Then installed the ARP bolt w/ the moly lube per their directions then maxed out my torque wrench at 160.

10. Lastly I torqued the timing cover bolts to spec 18 ft/lbs.

Everything went fine.... using the imact to get the bolt off was a great help, but I wouldn't used it to seat the pulley... that's just my $0.02. Most broken bolts and issues come from trying to run the pulley on w/ the old bolt... using threaded rod takes the risk out of the procedure.

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

Thats why you heat the balancer up. Either in the oven or heat the center with a torch (to about 250 degrees) Then its actually bigger than the crank and basically falls on. That method works perfect.... you'll never have to worry about damaging the threads.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

How do you know it is 250 degrees with a torch? What effect does the heat have on the elastomer that is used as the harmonic damper? How does the torch effect the elastomer bond strenght?

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

thats why the oven is better for some. 250 shouldnt hurt anything... its only slightly above operating temp of the engine. you'd probably have to leave it in the oven for 45 min to an hour though so you were sure the whole thing was equally the same temp.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

My oven doesn't have a 250 setting. As it shouldn't bc you don't actually cook anything at that temp.

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

use the microwave.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Use red loctite on the threads, ARP lube under the bolt head and washer. Tighten to 250 ft lbs. This is what ARP suggests now.

flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

& wrap it in tin foil? Sure.

NVR_SPDS

iTrader: (39)

You can use boiling water to heat up the balancer instead of the oven. ive done it on an old school big block, and an LS1 and it worked great.