how hard to change rod bolts to ARP?
#1
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how hard to change rod bolts to ARP?
how hard is it to change my rod bolts to ARP?
how much would a shop charge? how much time does it take?
and is it possible to do it without taking the motor apart?
thanks,
how much would a shop charge? how much time does it take?
and is it possible to do it without taking the motor apart?
thanks,
#2
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If you just change out one bolt at a time, you won't have to remove the head or replace any head gaskets. I would replace one bolt at a time, and just torque them down to like 30 ft-lbs or so first, then do the proper bolt sequence and proper torque specs for each bolt. Figure 3 hours max.
Tony
Tony
#4
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Originally Posted by quickWS6
Didn't he ask about rod bolts?
Rod bolts are a PITA to replace, because you can't get the oilpan off the engine without lifting the engine up off of the engine mounts. But, if you do manage to get the pan off, you can just swap those out one at a time too.
Tony
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Originally Posted by Nine Ball
DOH! I was thinking ARP head bolts for some reason.
Rod bolts are a PITA to replace, because you can't get the oilpan off the engine without lifting the engine up off of the engine mounts. But, if you do manage to get the pan off, you can just swap those out one at a time too.
Tony
Rod bolts are a PITA to replace, because you can't get the oilpan off the engine without lifting the engine up off of the engine mounts. But, if you do manage to get the pan off, you can just swap those out one at a time too.
Tony
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Pretty much have to disconnect all the accessories and wires and drop the engine. Do the job on an engine stand. You shouldn't just replace one bolt at a time. Take them off and go back and forth stepping up in torque till you get total torque requirement. That will put an even load on the bearing. I would replace the bearings at the same time if the engine has miles. Not really an apartment job, but I guess it depends on weather you have a garage to work in and some good tools. If you use a hoist to hold the engine up you could just unbolt the engine from the motor mounts and drop the k member. That would allow access to get the pan off and swap the rod bolts. Just a couple ideas though.
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First off, if you change to ARP, the final torque specs will be different. That means it will change the crush on the bearing and that will change the clearence on the bearings. You would have to take out the rods and re-check the clearences, or you could have a bearing failure. When we do them, the clearences change every time. You also have to torque the ARP bolts 3-5 times to get them to seat properly. Also if you change the bearings you will have to re-check clearences just in case they are different.
Why do you want to change the bolts anyways?
Why do you want to change the bolts anyways?
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#11
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thanks guys,
it seems likea real PITA to do them,
i was just wondering if it was easy to replace them because i wanted the extra insurance of not breking the stock ones, i will be spinning my motor up to 6600 with TR224 112 and PP 5.3 heads.
so you think the stock rod bolts should hold up fine?
thanks
it seems likea real PITA to do them,
i was just wondering if it was easy to replace them because i wanted the extra insurance of not breking the stock ones, i will be spinning my motor up to 6600 with TR224 112 and PP 5.3 heads.
so you think the stock rod bolts should hold up fine?
thanks