Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
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If I Blow It

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Old 08-03-2010, 10:28 AM
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In the next year or so I am planning on putting some 317 heads milled to 68-70cc, Forged Scat I Beam Rods and Forged SRP Pistons, along with a 50-100 shot while going to a pulley for 12-14psi and putting a second gss340 in tank.

The car currently is supercharged with a vortech v9 g trim on 7psi, Speed inc si5 cam 231/237, 60lb injectors, gss340 in tank, pacesetter headers, magnaflow exhaust, comp hardened pushrods, a Precision Industries Vigilante 3200 stall, shift kit, 3-4 clutch pack etc so the tranny is built. Rear end has moser axels and is a 3.42 along with a rear end girdle.

My question is if I blow it can I transfer all the stuff over to a lm7 if the stock crank goes and doesn't take anything with it?

Last edited by John2005; 08-03-2010 at 03:57 PM.
Old 08-03-2010, 10:35 AM
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The crank in the LS1 isnt the weak spot, its the rod bolts/bearings that usually go first.
Old 08-03-2010, 11:14 AM
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im going to use arp bolts and change the bearings to clevite bearings when I do the motor. im still tired and knew I forgot to put something on there.
Old 08-03-2010, 03:35 PM
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come on 50 plus views and only 1 comment some one has to know.
Old 08-03-2010, 04:01 PM
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The short answer is yes. Longer... it depends. Exactly what are you looking to throw into the LM7? If you're just trying to run the motor to get by for a while, that cam will probably be a little large for the 5.3. It will easily run, I just have no idea what kind of numbers it will pull.

If you're wanting to do a wholesale swap of everything into the LM7 it should work as well. If I recall correctly, all Gen III motors except the 4.8 shared a common stroke and rod length. The LM7 can be bored out to a max of 3.9" to run standard size LS1 pistons.

Last edited by Rhino; 08-03-2010 at 04:08 PM.
Old 08-03-2010, 05:08 PM
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John, It's not a matter of if you blow it it's a matter of when you blow it.
That goes for any engine anywhere in the world nothing is invincible (espically to your level of "fun") And what do you mean the tranny is built? I drove your car home in reverse after you finished tearing up what was left of 2nd 3rd and 4th, 1st was already gone to begin with....

I already told you your best bet to get your 10.8 run is to slap the hossier slicks on the car and a 100 shot, spary in 2nd up and since your already running 11.4 I would think that would net your 10.8 10.9 run. Forging the motor and changing the heads is the least to worry about at this point since your boosting (and going through A/C condensers every other week).
What are you trying to get at putting 14lbs of boost down with ported 317 heads a 100 shot of nitrous? Are you trying to get low 10's?
The T/A dosen't even have suspenison mods on it and I'm afraid the body will be getting twisted very soon. Sub Frame Connectors, Torque arm and LCA's. You need to get the car to stay solid in the frame that alone will help with off the line as thiers less body flex and more weight transfer. A cage would be great. Espically since your t-top. I'm afraid your going to kill yourself or me if you continue to push this car further. It's already a death trap at 11.4.

I know you didn't want to do cage and alot of other stuff because at one point it was a "daily driver" but at this point that can't be said anymore. Everytime your take it out something else breaks. It has crossed over from being a street driven daily driver. At this point it is a race car first and only.

So what are you really looking to get out of it?
You don't live in FL anymore and none of the old guys with the alleged 10 sec cars even come out any more. Paul opened a bussiness and doesn't race any one anymore. Theirs nothing going on in the street racing scene here anymore. And what racing is going on in Kansas?

I'm just saying you need to decide what this is for and then build it according to that.
I don't want to see me and your dad's, and your hard work go into this for you to run it at the track a couple times break it and again be in the same boat you were a year ago.
I know you want your sports car but if it's going to be built it needs to be built right and it needs to be built were you can at least drive it from place to place. aka the long drive from here to Ka with out something giving out (a/c, eating supercharger belts, losing gears, overheating, any and all the other reasons we've been left on the side of the road or limped home).

Just my 2 cents.
Old 08-03-2010, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Werewolf SS
You don't live in FL anymore and none of the old guys with the alleged 10 sec cars even come out any more. Paul opened a bussiness and doesn't race any one anymore. Theirs nothing going on in the street racing scene here anymore. And what racing is going on in Kansas?
I think you may be surprised what you'll find in KS.
Old 08-03-2010, 06:34 PM
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WereWolfSS

Ok james the transmission isn't currently built, it will be before its all done. Parts are fixing to be ordered very soon. I am not fixing to spray it now without it being forged. I don't want to blow it now, don't even want to chance it. I don't know why u think it goes thru a/c condensers every other week since its went thru one, maybe two in the last year. I'm not putting a ton of money in the suspension either I don't want a dead hook with me ending up breaking the rear end I want to cut the 1.7's im cutting now. A cage is and always will be out of the question. I'm not welding **** inside my car. I know its not a DD and don't expect it to be. Its a weekend fun car that is it. It also hasn't ate a s/c belt in a long time, or overheated since it thru the belt a long *** time ago. So I don't know why you are so worried about that. When its all done with new pistons, rods and a different set of heads along with mains and rod bolts I don't see what there is to worry about. everything in the motor but the main block pretty much will have less than 5000 miles on it at that point.

Rhino

I am in parsons, ks. Small *** town with a very very little amount of sports cars. I'm not in Kansas City or Wichita, etc. If you know of any people around here that have ls1's that is cool, but I haven't seen hardly any maybe 4 or 5 if that.
Old 08-03-2010, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Rhino
The short answer is yes. Longer... it depends. Exactly what are you looking to throw into the LM7? If you're just trying to run the motor to get by for a while, that cam will probably be a little large for the 5.3. It will easily run, I just have no idea what kind of numbers it will pull.

If you're wanting to do a wholesale swap of everything into the LM7 it should work as well. If I recall correctly, all Gen III motors except the 4.8 shared a common stroke and rod length. The LM7 can be bored out to a max of 3.9" to run standard size LS1 pistons.
Correct!




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