Installing new lifters
#1
Installing new lifters
Tonight I will be installing a set of the new Harland Sharpe rocker arms and some comp R lifters. On my way ou the door this morning I grabbed the Comp R instructions sheet and it said "you will need to wash the shipping grease off of the lifters with a mineral spirit and soak them in oil before the install".
Can someone define "mineral spirits". To me that says "please soak in Jack daniels". Honestly though, could I just spray the lifters down with "Brakeen" or "WD-40" and then soak them in oil for a while?
Any help greatly appreciated. The car hasnt run for 3 months now and I REALLY dont want any headaches because I messed something up.
Can someone define "mineral spirits". To me that says "please soak in Jack daniels". Honestly though, could I just spray the lifters down with "Brakeen" or "WD-40" and then soak them in oil for a while?
Any help greatly appreciated. The car hasnt run for 3 months now and I REALLY dont want any headaches because I messed something up.
#3
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Mneral spirits is also paint thinner. You can get it at the hardware store like Levi said. Or you can do your best to clean them with brake clean. You are just trying to get the cosmoleen(sp?) off of the lifter body. Make sure that when yu put them in you get the preload right. Good luck.
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Comp Rs REQUIRE adjustable valvetrain or you WILL have to shim the rockers. The preload on them is .002-.004 ( http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Ca...ML/279-282.asp )
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2001CamaroGuy: As I understand it Comp Rs are not factory lifters.
Country Boy: Besides what YT provides for shims what else are you using to shim them to the correct preload? And how many turns to 25lbs of torque is .002-.004?
Country Boy: Besides what YT provides for shims what else are you using to shim them to the correct preload? And how many turns to 25lbs of torque is .002-.004?
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Originally Posted by 2001CamaroGuy
So basically you are saying set them to almost no preload so they can't pump up. Why couldn't you do this with a factory lifter?
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Originally Posted by BB
2001CamaroGuy: As I understand it Comp Rs are not factory lifters.
Country Boy: Besides what YT provides for shims what else are you using to shim them to the correct preload? And how many turns to 25lbs of torque is .002-.004?
Country Boy: Besides what YT provides for shims what else are you using to shim them to the correct preload? And how many turns to 25lbs of torque is .002-.004?
#13
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how do you like the Pro Mags? I am thinking of going with them but not sure if I should just bite down and go for the comp shaft mounts.
The shims go under the rocker rail. the rocker its self never "knows" there is a shim but just "thinks" the head is thicker (get what I'm saying?).
The shims go under the rocker rail. the rocker its self never "knows" there is a shim but just "thinks" the head is thicker (get what I'm saying?).
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[QUOTE=2001CamaroGuy] I bought a "new" block when I did my first rebuild I found out 2500 miles later that the line bore was waaaaaaaaaay off. The shop that just did my line bore/ hone said it was a wonder that it went together it was so off. Only one 1/2 of one of the main bearings was completely gone... all the way into the copper.
Originally Posted by Country Boy
Im still rebuilding the motor from a toasted main bearing.
QUOTE]
aw man.....you always get the good luck
do you know what happened to make is go out?
QUOTE]
aw man.....you always get the good luck
do you know what happened to make is go out?
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the lessons hardest learned are the ones easiest to remember.
did your machinest check the cam journals? if not, make sure that your cam spins easily. good luck.
did your machinest check the cam journals? if not, make sure that your cam spins easily. good luck.
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Originally Posted by SixPak
the lessons hardest learned are the ones easiest to remember.
did your machinest check the cam journals? if not, make sure that your cam spins easily. good luck.
did your machinest check the cam journals? if not, make sure that your cam spins easily. good luck.
Thanks, yeah, it all was checked this time around with new cam bearings and $500 worth of work later to make it right. Dont trust someone when they say "never run, ready to assemble".
#19
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Originally Posted by Country Boy
Thanks, yeah, it all was checked this time around with new cam bearings and $500 worth of work later to make it right. Dont trust someone when they say "never run, ready to assemble".
EXACTLY! I have and will be checking every part that goes into this new motor numerous times. I figure its better to be **** about it before I put it together than to have it go later