Rick_Vor

iTrader: (36)

I installed a new rear main seal when was assembling my forged 4.005 LQ9 but it looks like it's leaking. I've been getting a pretty steady drip from the 4L80E cover and when I removed it this afternoon, it had a small pool of oil in it. I was hoping it might be the oil pan gasket but when I cleaned everything up and fired it up without the cover, it appears to be leaking from the seal. It was a brand new GM seal that I installed just like the 2000 rear cover shown in the pictures below. It came with the white plastic support ring but it didn't seem like it would help while I was trying to slip the forward facing lip over the crankshaft flange. It was a serious bitch to get over the flange and it took 4 or 5 tries to keep it from folding over on itself while I was putting it on. Each time I had to use my fingers to form it back into shape for the next attempt. I've read about how easy the new seals are to install. Did I install it backwards? I may have just stretched it out whlie putting it on(?).









I'm going to pick up another new seal but I obviuosly don't want to have to try this a third time. Pulling an 4L80E/AWD transfer case/and two driveshafts is not fun.

Rick

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

you can put them in backwards...and if you do i hear it will leak a bitch...but hell if i know what is front or back

JPH

iTrader: (2)

There's a label on the seal, that says "OUT". make sure that it goes on that way, and borrow the LS rear main seal install tool from your local dealer. It will go on perfect then. (make sure everything is dry also)

G Engines

The direction of the seal is correct just make sure when you install the new seal that your crank is clean and dry these seals are mint to be installed dry. Also let your crank shaft center your rear cover.

Rick_Vor

iTrader: (36)

Thanks for the advice fellas. The crank surface was perfect and I installed it dry so I must have creased or stretched the seal. I used an LS1 crank so I'll make sure that the crankshaft oil plug is still in place. No oil coming down from the valve covers/oil pressure sensor and I also installed a new white dumbell so I'm 99% sure it's the seal.

I just passed 500 non-boosted break-in miles so I'm dying to get it tuned and turn the wick up. Oh well, time to pull the tranny.

Rick

flippincamaro

iTrader: (23)

Do a search under my user name, Search rear main seal leak. I had a big problem with mine,

Rick_Vor

iTrader: (36)

I read your post along with a bunch of others while I was searching for info. What ended up being the problem? You never said if it was the seal or the crankshaft oil plug.

davidws6

iTrader: (36)

Many of the after market crankshafts don't have blind holes for the flywheel bolts.

Make sure the bolt holes are blind ( not drilled all the way through ) .

First time I installed my stroker with a 4.125 Callies, I ended up pulling the trans for an oil leak and had to have the clutch rebuilt. I used Silicone Sealer on the flywheel bolts and it's been dry ever since.

flippincamaro

iTrader: (23)

oh im sorry, It ended up being my rear cover gasket, But to make things easier on you. Put it back together without the trans on it. Start it up with someone looking underneath. If no leaks your good to go if there is leaks you can look an see where it is coming from. I got tired of pulling the trans 4 times lol. but i learned not to use a cheap rear cover gasket. I also said screw it an glued all the way around the cover on the gasket in an out, Not the rear main seal though. Hope you get it figured out.

Rick_Vor

iTrader: (36)

Good idea on the staring without the tranny installed. I'd hate to pull it a 3rd time.

BKnBLK05

What ya figure out?Pulling my Trans this weekend,Hoping it's something simple!New stroked FI setup...