Rebuilding a higher mileage 5.3 in preparation for forced induction
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Rebuilding a higher mileage 5.3 in preparation for forced induction
I bought a motor (5.3L L33) and was told it had around 100k miles - I have no reason to doubt the seller, but have kicked around the idea of "freshening it" if it weren't too much money to do so. It's replacing a meticulously maintained LS1 with 80k miles, so I have this nagging in the back of my mind about dropping in a motor with unknown mileage to replace it. I realize the 5.3's are considered expendable and all, but I don't want to have to say "here's my mint condition 2002 Camaro and 5.3L with who knows how many miles, probably a lot".
Pretty much everything other than the short block is getting replaced, and I would like to keep the stock 5.3 pistons if they're in good shape and the bore isn't worn out (and they appear to be in good shape, without disassembly). But what, if anything, could I do to ensure this puppy is running good as new when I drop it in my Camaro to replace the mint LS1?
If it's going to cost me $1000 to "freshen" it up, I'll either spend more and buy a "new" short block, or say screw it and drop it in there anyway.
Pretty much everything other than the short block is getting replaced, and I would like to keep the stock 5.3 pistons if they're in good shape and the bore isn't worn out (and they appear to be in good shape, without disassembly). But what, if anything, could I do to ensure this puppy is running good as new when I drop it in my Camaro to replace the mint LS1?
If it's going to cost me $1000 to "freshen" it up, I'll either spend more and buy a "new" short block, or say screw it and drop it in there anyway.
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If I were going to do that, Id probably just use my LS1 - the pistons in the 5.3 are better suited for boost too. If a cylinder hone is all that's needed, is enough material removed to require larger pistons?
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If you torque plate hone it, it usually needs a good amount of material to clean up round again, so oversized (or LS1) pistons are required...unless you like piston slap.
Without a torque plate or with a ball hone, you could be able to basically get a new crosshatch without opening it up too much.
Why are 5.3L pistons batter for boost?
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leak test and slap it in there. Its a better bang for the buck untouched. When you go FI do it right with forged rotating assembly, drop the CR. This is what I would to to ensure reliability. Remember there is no guarantees with used, so just let it eat after leak down test if okay.