Crygenically Treating Stock Rods and Crank? I need info!!
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Crygenically Treating Stock Rods and Crank? I need info!!
I was thinking about purchasing myself a stock 6.0 liter block and taking my stock rods and crank out of my ls1 and putting them in it. But I also remember about reading an article on cryogenics a few years back. I began to thinking about having them cryeod. I'm not trying to substitute for aftermarket parts just trying to extend the life of the stock parts. If I'm correct it doesn't cost a whole lot to have parts treated does it? I think I heard something like 150 or 175 bucks for a crank?
This would basically be a h/c 6.0 with some pistons and rod bolts. Nothing special, just something to withstand a 175 shot or so. I realized that I could probably get the 6.0 block cheaper than another LS1 or LS6 block and I have always wanted a 6.0 block to build myself a 409. So that way I would almost be killing 2 birds with one stone. B/c I have a lifter tapping / or piston slap in my motor now so I want to go ahead and start saving up for the setup.
Josh S.
This would basically be a h/c 6.0 with some pistons and rod bolts. Nothing special, just something to withstand a 175 shot or so. I realized that I could probably get the 6.0 block cheaper than another LS1 or LS6 block and I have always wanted a 6.0 block to build myself a 409. So that way I would almost be killing 2 birds with one stone. B/c I have a lifter tapping / or piston slap in my motor now so I want to go ahead and start saving up for the setup.
Josh S.
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I have seen people run 175 shots an stock! I have quite a few 150 shots myself, so I am not sure a 175 shot would warrent the work other than "piece of mind". Upgrading the pistons, valvetrain, and fuel delivery would certainly be a good idea.
More Performance used to do cyro but their page on it is currently down. I am still interested in this myself as I hope to move to a 250 shot in the future. 100 dry 150 wet
More Performance used to do cyro but their page on it is currently down. I am still interested in this myself as I hope to move to a 250 shot in the future. 100 dry 150 wet
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J-Rod brought up these folks a while back, and there is some good discussion about it in a few threads. Do a search on "Cyro".
http://www.300below.com/
http://www.300below.com/
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I don't know if it's really worth it. The stock Powdered metal crank & rods are pretty damn strong. There are plenty of people pushing 650 RWHP on stock bottom ends on the spray. Just take the money and get some good rod bolts, good nitrous pistons & things like studding your block.
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well of coarse bolts, studs and probably some JE pistons would be included. I was thinking that it would be a little insurance on the bottom side. Fuel system and valvetrain would be built nicely too.
Josh S.
Josh S.
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I cryo alot of our tools here at work, and I can tell a BIG difference in how long they last. I use www.nitrotechusa.com for all my stuff.
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I personally think deep cryogenics is a good idea. That being said I am a bit biased as I own a thermal processing company.
I'll give you some advice if you do choose to have your parts cryogenically processed.
1: Make sure you do ALL critical machining *after* the cryogenic process.
The conversion of retained austenite WILL cause growth. Make sure all measurments are checked and double checked do not allow your machine shop to assume anything.
Also machining after will help remove the thin film layer and increase wear characteristics.
2: Make sure that that company you're using knows what they are talking about. There are many in the industry who are absolutely ignorant when it comes to this process.
The company should have good knowledge of heat treating and metallurgy. Run from any company that wants to pour liquid nitrogen on your room temp parts.
Seek out a company that uses "wet" processing. The dry process cannot achieve the same results as the wet process. Period. Dry processing is better than none at all so do not write off having this done if that is your only option.
On something with the mass of a crankshaft figure on a 72 hr cycle minimum.Be suspicious of any processor who tells you it will require less time.
3: No matter what ANYONE tells you any ferrous metals that have been cryogenically processed *MUST* be tempered *properly* after the ferrous metal item has been processed. This is imperative and absolutely cannot be omitted.
My company currently does not process automotive parts. I have however seen results from testing showing increases in wear and durability as well as an increase in power in certain instances.
By "stabilizing" the ferrous metal via the deep cryogenics process you have the ability to run tighter clearances (if desired) in certain instances.If you wish to change clearances within in the engine you will have to deal with an experienced processor and/or conduct testing of your own.
There is no saying for certain what your increases in durability and or power will be unless proper testing has been conducted on a like item.Refer to test results your processor of choice has compiled.
I'll give you some advice if you do choose to have your parts cryogenically processed.
1: Make sure you do ALL critical machining *after* the cryogenic process.
The conversion of retained austenite WILL cause growth. Make sure all measurments are checked and double checked do not allow your machine shop to assume anything.
Also machining after will help remove the thin film layer and increase wear characteristics.
2: Make sure that that company you're using knows what they are talking about. There are many in the industry who are absolutely ignorant when it comes to this process.
The company should have good knowledge of heat treating and metallurgy. Run from any company that wants to pour liquid nitrogen on your room temp parts.
Seek out a company that uses "wet" processing. The dry process cannot achieve the same results as the wet process. Period. Dry processing is better than none at all so do not write off having this done if that is your only option.
On something with the mass of a crankshaft figure on a 72 hr cycle minimum.Be suspicious of any processor who tells you it will require less time.
3: No matter what ANYONE tells you any ferrous metals that have been cryogenically processed *MUST* be tempered *properly* after the ferrous metal item has been processed. This is imperative and absolutely cannot be omitted.
My company currently does not process automotive parts. I have however seen results from testing showing increases in wear and durability as well as an increase in power in certain instances.
By "stabilizing" the ferrous metal via the deep cryogenics process you have the ability to run tighter clearances (if desired) in certain instances.If you wish to change clearances within in the engine you will have to deal with an experienced processor and/or conduct testing of your own.
There is no saying for certain what your increases in durability and or power will be unless proper testing has been conducted on a like item.Refer to test results your processor of choice has compiled.
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I have a freshly bored (.030 over), honed and decked 6.0 along with a fresh cryo'd and Ion'd crank... take both for $1070 (Exactly my machining bill!), for that matter I may still have Carrillo rods still available that the crank was balanced for (with diamond pistons now sold). The whole set up is available for a firm $1570 if ya take it all. I was upgrading from a 370 to a 409...unfortunately I waited until the machine shop was done with my 370 brfore I decided to order an assembled 409.
As you can see, I was sold on the cryo tech...and it was done correctly by an automotive specialist center in CA.
shockawe@nycap.rr.com
As you can see, I was sold on the cryo tech...and it was done correctly by an automotive specialist center in CA.
shockawe@nycap.rr.com
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Lerajie......... would you just happen to know of a company that fits your critteria? Its actually going to be a little while before I get the build up going b/c I lack a few things on my other hot rod.
Jammer... If I wasn't trying to peice one together I'de be all over your set up...... but being a college student isn't exactly a good way to buy race car parts. LOL
Josh S.
Jammer... If I wasn't trying to peice one together I'de be all over your set up...... but being a college student isn't exactly a good way to buy race car parts. LOL
Josh S.
#11
The guy that owns this business is a friend of mine. Give him a call, he'll explain it all to you. Plus, he's in Little Rock, not very far from you in Mississippi.
http://host58.ipowerweb.com/~deepfree/home.htm
http://host58.ipowerweb.com/~deepfree/home.htm