KissMySS98

Alright guys, This spring i'm going to have to choose between either Stage 2 Heads or going to a bigger cam, the FMS F11. I currently have macs w/ory pipe & b&b triflow exhaust, Lid and MTI T1 cam. I put down only 355rwhp and 359rwtq? Now should I just slap on a pair of some patriot 5.3's with an ls6 intake and pulley, or the bigger cam?

Thanks, I want to try to hit the 400rwhp mark

C5 CU

Heads...bigger cam may get ya 5-10rwhp but heads could get ya 40rwhp...

kossuth

iTrader: (12)

I'm not sure of the specs of the cam you have but I can offer this. A good set of heads and long tubes will infinately contribute toward any future upgrades you wish to do. The midlengths might be restricting you. Personally, I would look at all your options. Granted Patriot makes a good product and if you are on a budget then that is the way to go but do some research. I'm not slamming Patriot but their results are not consistant. Some people get more or less than they expect. If I had the cash a set of GTP's would in on order but again the "If I had the cash" comes into play. Just weigh your options and see what makes the most sense to you.

KissMySS98

I'm a 20 yr old in college, so the budget is kind of a factor

JBsC5

absolute 5.3 heads

taqwache

persoanaly, i would save the money on the heads and buy one of those new TR cams that are making 400+ with stock heads. then used the saved money to buy some pacesetter LTs and dual springs but thats just me. both ways will cost the same amount of money.

JBsC5

Thats a good idea too as long as emissions is not a concern..

taqwache

oh no!! if emissions are a concern forget about that cam. if will fail for sure. now that you said that, i would vote for heads. also if you look into the TEAs that brian was talking about, you will get more power then the patriots but spend a little bit more.

Steve98Z

I would go with the new T-Rex cam before i spent $1500-2k on heads plus gaskets etc, 450rwhp on stock heads is pretty damn impressive.......

kossuth

iTrader: (12)

Well, what other mods do you have on the car. Long tubes is where I would start. Do you have a LS6 intake? What are your basic mods? Also what is the size of the current cam you are running? If you are running like a 216/220 then the hp you are making is about on par, and maybe a larger cam is in order. If you are using a 224/224 then you're down alittle and need to look at other things IE intake headers ect ect. Once you have those bases covered look at your heads. I'm completely against the idea of throwing a huge cam in something just to make dyno numbers. All the while you have a car that drives like crap, (or atleast what I consider driving like crap). You should be able to cruise along @ 1200-1400 rpms and not have the damned thing buck. Also I think your idle shouldn't have to be more than 850 rpms. With what I would consider a streetable setup. Again my impressions of a streetable setup is probiably much tighter than what a few others may view as acceptable for the street, but I end up doing alot of intown driving so maybe that sways my opinions alittle. Only you can determine what will and will not be exceptable. Unless you have like a 212/218 or something along those lines I would concentrate on things like pulleys and the headers and the intake, and once you have that covered then look at heads.

KissMySS98

my cam is a 221/221 .561 112lsa and I have an asp pulley and ls6 intake in my room

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

5.3 Liter heads

JZ'sTA

iTrader: (23)

I will defentially agree with nearly everything listed above.
If emissions is a concern then LT's and a big cam might be out of the question. If not then this is defentially the way I would go.
To make 400 WRHP the cheepest way.
Heads are very important, but aren't necessary to make 400 WRHP.
First off I would sell the mid length headers, and buy some hookers, or some jet hot LT's. Both are very great for the money.
I would then buy a cam that makes more power, maybe a 224 from TR or a 227/224. Something that will still drive nicely and still get you where you want to go very quickly. I would also install that Z06 intake and sell the LS1 intake. Also a very good exhaust is extreemly important.
The heads can wait until next time you have some money saved up. This way you will beable to see what the AFR's do.
I have heads and cam but have defentially seen some great results from cam only cars.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

first of what tranny are you? a4 will be harder to pull out 400rwhp then an m6. the T1 is a great cam and will push 380-390rwhp in its own right with the correct supporting mods and tune. dont be so quick to dump it. install the mods you have and retune and see where that puts you. the T1 isnt such a huge cam where it needs LT's, macs can support great power and i dont think you'll gain much with LT's over your macs on a T1. Do you have a baseline dyno before cam and bolt ons? it'll give us a better determinant of how your mods are are performing. if you dyno'd 320rwhp stock then your numbers are kinda low but if you put out 290rwhp then your gains are pretty damn good, its all relative. dont get caught up the dyno game. what do you run at the track and whats the mechanical condition of your car?

Mike K.

I would also vote for heads, you can always do a cam swap later if you really wanted.
Heads should help any cam.

equandt

iTrader: (2)

5.3 S2 heads from the sponsor of your choice, no need to mess with another cam. The one you got will get you there.

If you want a budget 400 HP a 5177 NOS kit would be a good way to go.

BezersSLPSS

221/221 .558/.558 112LSA to be exact.

apexman

My T1 is 221/221/.559/.559/ 112. Anyway, I have Macs, y pipe, an LS1 intake, and dynoed at 374 HP 372 TQ with a cutout. I would install that pulley, LS6 intake and maybe a ported throttle body and see what happens with your A/F ratio and tune from there. That what I am doing next. We have nearly the same setup. Good luck!