bigboyls1

Hey guys my car and mods are in sig. I know zero about cams even though i've searched and searched and tried reading all I can. I plan on having a cam only. If i do heads it will be a long time from now. I want to get the best bang i can out of this cam. My question is without having a stall and with the mods in my sig, whats the biggest cam i can get that will provide the most gains? Sponsors please let me know also if you can hook me up with a custom cam package or whatever i will need. Thanks

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

W/O a stall everbody on here will tell you no bigger than a 224/224. A 114LSA will have better manners...

Always2Slow

iTrader: (8)

Go 224 228 110 lsa will be good with no other mods and will get better the more mods you add. It will have a nice lope to it as well.

KevinR

Why don't you do a stall first, then start shopping for a cam?

mike171562

iTrader: (4)

I have a 228/232 112lsa comp cam with the stock stall. I drive alot in the city and it pulls on the brakes a little at stoplights, but other than that its fine.

I plan on getting a small stall in the near future though.

Midnight02

iTrader: (8)

Congratulations on what should prove to be a great decision on your part!

Can you give us a little flavor for your driveability requirements. Is the car a weekend warrior that spends a good bit of time at the track or is it a daily driver that needs to be reliable on the streets?

The simple scoop is that (as a general rule) smaller cams will net you good power under the curve and can easily be tuned to provide good street manners. By contrast, larger cams will net you more power up top and usually give great peak numbers but the trade off is they're a bit more tricky to tune and might be more than a handful for a daily driver automatic without a stall.

Personally, I went with a middle of the road option. Trick Flow 228/230 .585/.585 @ 112 LSA. My goals were (in order of priority): 1. reliability as a daily driver 2. Power throughout the curve -- I would sacrafice a few hp on the peak side to keep it strong under the curve. 3. A noticeable lope. The cam I chose does an excellent job at meeting those three criteria. If I had it to do over again, I would've considered a VRX3 or VRX4 from Vengeance since I added heads and a ported FAST to the mix -- however I have nothing but good things to say about the Trick Flow cam.

bigboyls1

well i drive the car quite often, basically a DD. Will rarely see the track especially since it's got the 10 bolt. I really want a nice lope. I have headers with true dual bassani exhaust. I also already have a fast intake. I really just want a large cam that isn't ridiculous to drive. I will however trade off a little "bucking" at idle for some big HP gains..

bigboyls1

sorry to double post but i would also like to know if me and a friend can install the cam and all supporting parts in a day or two with basic tools? I"m not very mechanically minded at all my friend is pretty good however. But how hard is the install? I don't have the cash to pay someone 800 bucks to do it lol

pozesd99'

iTrader: (3)

i would suggest a 224 or 228 cam from tsp. your gonna want a stall however. i would personally get a stall first, you'll be much happier.
it can take a day to do if you know what your doing.
you need to get it tuned though once its installed

brian_rs/ss

stall.


if you chose the 224r i can personally tell you that it's a perfect dd cam. 114 lsa is very well mannered. and with the a/c on it sounds like a stock cam haha

bigboyls1

lol yea i hear ya man. Thats not exactly what I want though. I want that badass thump at an idle. Like I said before I really don't have the cash for a stall or the knowhow to put it in, i'm just looking for a cam right now.

bigboyls1

i really want to break 400rwhp with a cam only setup with the mods i have i think that is very easily done?

Detoxx03

iTrader: (14)

No point in having a cam without a stall.

Paul57

If you want to break 400 whp then I would highly recommend contacting Patrick G or Predator Z for custom cam specs...$25 well spent.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...am-change.html
My personal thought...don't go over 224-ish duration or wider than 112 lsa (unstalled), for the powerband and lope you need/want. A stall makes a big difference!! I hope you plan on getting a tune??

poltergeist 02

iTrader: (65)

you will need a ballancer install tool. if i remember right 5/16 wooden dowel rods from home depot to hold the lifters in place. if you don't have the $ to pay for the install then be sure not to go with too big of a cam, or you'll have to pay for a tune.

pozesd99'

iTrader: (3)

Dude do it right the first time. Get a stall, it will make life easier for ya

budgetls1

iTrader: (1)

1) get a stall first, especially if you want a big gain, which would mean medium to large cam.

2) the cam swap can be done in 4 hours, including springs. so research it, take your time. allow a full weekend just in case.

3) allow money for a tune afterwards, especially if you want a cam with a nasty idle.

brian_rs/ss

yeah you're not gonna be able to hit 400 rwhp cam only w/o a stall. and you damn sure aint gonna do it w/o a tune.

stop trying to cut corners and listen to what we are saying.

dee99gt

iTrader: (3)

I did both at the same time. Im at 379hp with my 233/239 cam and 3600 stall.. Driving wise, I don't know say since after I had it dyno tuned and took it out on the street for the first time the trans broke shifting into 3rd.. I think you're going to need a 228 cam at least and a stall to hit 400+hp.

farmington

iTrader: (14)

I put a 2800 converter with my stock motor and 373 gears and the car was totally different. Putting in a 224r 112lsa, long tubes and ory, and ls6 intake this week. Better slightly undercam than over cam.