engine stall=hot outside= pissed!!
04-13-2011, 01:31 PM
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engine stall=hot outside= pissed!! So i am driving to work and my car starts to sputter while i'm pushing in the gas. I know this sputter because I have had a fuel pump go out on me about 10-15k miles ago (a little less than 2 years ago). So, I turned around and headed back home since i was closer to the house than work. as i got closer to the house i decided to push it a little harder to see what would happen. Eventually, after pushing in the clutch, the roms shoot to about 2k and sits there. when i got it in the driveway i rev it up twice to about 2-2.5k and it went to 900rpm like normal. Just as i was about to shut her down, the rpms jump back to 2k and acts like it's climbing slowly( i'm in neutral now) so i pop the hood and pulled the maf connection (IAC right?) the rpms very slowly dropped to normal. then a second or so later it rose back up. This time it started to smoke a bluish/grey smoke. i left it that way for about 5 seconds, and then it just ckoked and died. I havent checked the fuel pressure at the rail yet, but i have been having return to idle issues for over a year now. no service engine light came on. car is a 1999 t/a with h/c/i/e. Just changed oil & plugs. just got a clutch installed about 1500 miles ago. got about 300 miles on the plugs. i need some serious help. can the fuel pump be bad that quick. i put it in during a dyno because the other one went lean on me.
04-13-2011, 10:49 PM
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Holy crap!! i just found out that the tuner tuned out the sel completely when he was only supposed to delete skip shift, rear o2's, and egr. because when i hooked my scanner up, there were 16 codes that repeated so there were 32 on the handheld. here are all the codes. Sounds like a pcm/wiring issue doesn't it? :U1000 dtc, P1546 veh spd cntrl/ idle spd cntrl aux, P1122 fuel air metering, P1121 fuel air meter, P0801 rever inhib cntrl, P0706 trans range/ perf sensor cir, P0645 clutch relay cntrl, P0405 egr flow, P0160 o2 bank 2 sen 2, P0140 o2 bank 1 sen 2, P0123 tps high input, P0122 Tps low input, P0121 tps senA range/ per, P0103 Maf/ vaf cir high inp, P0102 maf/ vaf cir low inp
04-14-2011, 11:13 AM
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bump for another day of what the hell ... how much does it cost to repin the pcm wired if needed. these codes are not all related. so it has to be the pcm right?
04-14-2011, 11:35 AM
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I wouldnt worry about P0160 and P0140 as those are the rear o2s which im assuming you dont have. I also wouldnt worry about P0103 and P0102 as you probably just set those when you unplugged the MAF with the car running. I would however check into the tps and make sure it is reading correctly.
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04-14-2011, 01:20 PM
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Man my 99' TA is acting weird right now too. Here is what happened to me.
Driving home everything is normal, get about 2 miles from home & a new Camaro is behind me messin with me. I blip the throttle real quick & it falls on its face at 3500 rpm. I instantly hear the dreaded fuel pump whine. I limped it home the rest of the way. Bought a used stock pump from a 02' SS with under 50k miles on it. No more whine, pumps good to go. Take the car for a drive & its better but still limp. Take it to a buddy & we slap a new fuel filter on it & discover why the stock pump burned up. The filter was so clogged you couldnt blow through it. So now its got a fresh filter & good pump. Still limp though & now really smells like gas. But its not throwin any codes. Just out of curiousity I switch my Interceptor gauge from knock/coolant to watch my O2 sensors on B1 & B2, low & behold B2 is just sitting on 450 not switching while B1 is bouncing all over the place. So now I'm assuming a dead O2 sensor which would cause the extra rich smell. My only problem is its my daily & I havent had a chance to pick up a new set of 13111's yet. I'm praying I dont wash the cylinders before I can get it fixed or I'm gonna be screwed.
Driving home everything is normal, get about 2 miles from home & a new Camaro is behind me messin with me. I blip the throttle real quick & it falls on its face at 3500 rpm. I instantly hear the dreaded fuel pump whine. I limped it home the rest of the way. Bought a used stock pump from a 02' SS with under 50k miles on it. No more whine, pumps good to go. Take the car for a drive & its better but still limp. Take it to a buddy & we slap a new fuel filter on it & discover why the stock pump burned up. The filter was so clogged you couldnt blow through it. So now its got a fresh filter & good pump. Still limp though & now really smells like gas. But its not throwin any codes. Just out of curiousity I switch my Interceptor gauge from knock/coolant to watch my O2 sensors on B1 & B2, low & behold B2 is just sitting on 450 not switching while B1 is bouncing all over the place. So now I'm assuming a dead O2 sensor which would cause the extra rich smell. My only problem is its my daily & I havent had a chance to pick up a new set of 13111's yet. I'm praying I dont wash the cylinders before I can get it fixed or I'm gonna be screwed.
04-14-2011, 04:50 PM
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heck yeah. i am worried because this is my daily as well. i will have to look into the fuse. my i could have sworn i just repaced the tps. when i delete the codes, the tps, egr, and dtc codes remain.
04-17-2011, 04:26 PM
#11
Pull the lid on your under-hood fuse panel and look for one labeled "sensor" if my memory serves.
If it's blown, you can get replacements at AZ and most other parts stores...but if the replacement fuse blows you have another problem. Usually it's a burned O2 sensor harness shorting to ground.
If it's blown, you can get replacements at AZ and most other parts stores...but if the replacement fuse blows you have another problem. Usually it's a burned O2 sensor harness shorting to ground.
04-17-2011, 08:07 PM
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there is a sensor coming from the transmission that runs along the o2 wiring that also runs up along the header. i just thought that would be the problem. But those wires were tucked pretty good. there was a slight piece that touched the header. but it was taped up and the tape showed no discoloration or any signs of burning. I changed every 10, 15, and 20 amp fuse for piece of mind. Cleared the codes, cranked the car... same freakin problem. I need some advice. i'm losing the battle with my wife with selling this car if i cant even drive it. My PCM has most of the red and blue pins cracked or completely off. That would cause problems wouldn't it?
04-17-2011, 08:17 PM
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04-18-2011, 04:09 PM
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Good question.. I think I was so upset at the time I didn't even realize where I was starting the thread. I'll get it moved. I just replaced the tps less than 2 years ago. I guess it's not so uncommon to go that soon.
