SteelCityFBody

I just bought a 2000 Camaro SS with 98,000 miles with what sounds like a rod bearing knock when the car warms up to around operating temperature. It is only noticeable from around 1500 rpm to a little over 2000 rpm. I plan on pulling the motor and the oil pan to inspect the bottom end of the motor to indeed see if I am correct in my diagnosis. My first question is, are the factory connecting rod bolts 7/16 or 3/8? I plan on sending my rods to a machine shop to have them checked out and if they are okay I want to get a set of ARP rod bolts and have the rods resized. My next question is, if the journal on the crank is scuffed where the bad rod bearing is, can I send the crank with the rods and have it turned until it gets rid of the scuffing? After the resizing of the rods and the cutting of the crank, would it be a good idea to get the rotating assembly balanced? If so, I should get it internally balanced right? My last question is, while my pistons and rods are out of the block, should I get the cylinders honed and install new piston rings? Thanks in advance

matrixiskool

iTrader: (12)

Not too sure about the machining part, but if youre going to take out all the bottom end you may as well put in a 383 stroker assembly, theyre pretty cheap.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I'd drop it off at a competent machine shop and say do a stock rebuild on it, and go home and drink some cold ones. No need to worry over what they are getting paid to do.

ausls1

can drop it off to a machine shop and let them know what you want.
I'm currently in a similar situation and was going to keep my standard stroke to get rid of some piston slap and gudgeon pin noise, with a new set of rods and pistons, i was going to use my crank to save some money, but with the upgrades i have planned for heads and cam i'm going to upgrade to a 383 stroker for basically the same price.

Guess it depends on what else you have planned and how much you want to spend too.

SteelCityFBody

I started pulling the motor today and when I drained the oil there was a ton of metal shavings stuck to the magnetic drain plug and when I drove it this morning I heard the noise I have been hearing just not as loud when it was cold, so it deffinately got worse.

SSreda, im not sure I want a stock rebuild, id like to astleast add aftermarket rod bolts so this doesn't happen again. I now suspect the rod bolts stretched and thats why it spun the bearing.

Ausls, I eventually plan on adding the Trick flow top end kit and might actually do it while the engine is out of the car.

matrixiskool

iTrader: (12)

If youre going with aftermarket bottom end you should just buy a 383 kit, it will cost you the same.

chrisfrost

iTrader: (8)

Just a little info , if it was a rod bearing it would be noisy at all rpm's getting progressively louder as rpm's increase .

ausls1

Exactly what i'm doing due to it being the same price and putting a bigger cam in and doing heads over the mild cam and mild porting i had planned.

1of625

OP what is your oil pressure at when your engine is at full operating temp??
There's alot of different things that can cause a knocking sound and have nothing to do with the main or connecting rod bearings.

Mat

I'm in a similar situation, for those recommending the 383 kit, which sponsers do you prefer to go with in getting the parts?

IRONFIST

Where would you find a complete 383 kit? Any sponsors here?

darknessxyz

iTrader: (22)

I'm in the same situation too. I did alot of research on parts and price. I'm also debuting what to do. Here's some price comparison and I will not list where and who I get the price from (don't wanna get into trouble, shipping not included)

• Texas Speed & Performance 383 cid Rotating Assy. with Clevite H bearing = $1874.99
• All ACL bearing, Cryogenic treated stock crankshaft, Scat I Beam Rods, FPS Forged Piston, Mahle LS Piston Rings = $1142
• All ACL bearing, Cryogenic treated stock crankshaft, Scat I Beam Rods, Wiseco Piston Sets with ring = $1342

I'm more into third setup and there's 3 reasons for that. 1) I can save $500 in parts. 2) My power goal is around 420rwhp with H/C/I, full bolt-on and full exhaust. I don't really need a stroked motor to get that power level. 3) I can use my own preference parts (personally I don't like Eagle parts). If your shop charge you over $1500 in building labor, maybe it'll be easier just to get crate short block. Just 0.02

Callies Performance

I would do your research, you may find that a complete short block is the way to go. and if you are not fond of particular parts, I am sure most vendors have other options for you

darknessxyz

iTrader: (22)

Yes, you're totally right, consider the engine service/assemble labor. A normall machine shop here in CA will charge $1500-2500 labor for a rebuild. Good thing is, I've a hook up with a shop on labor cost. Bad thing is, I don't have hook up with Callies LOL. Good parts always comes with a good price tag.