JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

I want to get off my wallet, but I'd like to see some overlaid dyno graphs. Anyone have one showing both cams and no other changes? Mostly curious what I'll lose down low. I have some sim software, but I don't trust it.

JoSeY

I went from a 224/218 to a 230/227 MTI X1cam....and OMG...you wouldn't believe the difference. I highighly suggest going the MTI route....it's a most badass cam and idles very nice and quiet for a stealthy sound....lift is .595/.571 so you are going to need very good springs. I dyno'd my car all the way to 7000rpm and it was still climbing, but I had my A4 shifting a6 65-6600 depending on gear.

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

Did you dyno with the 218 cam? How did the graphs compare across the board?

SSean

I went from a TR224 (372rwhp) to a TR230 (385rwhp) the cam being the only change

Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

You won't loose much power at all when you go reverse split. The problem is, is that you won't gain much either. If you like what you have now down low, then stay with a reverse split. If you want to gain some low-end and more top end, get a symetrical split(230/230) or a foward split (231/237). There was a graph from thunder racing floating around that had the 224/224, the 227/224, and the 230/224 all overlaid. They all had the SAME graph until about 5200 rpm's. Then the bigger the intake duration, the more power there was. I'll see if I can find the graph.
OK, here is the graph. As you can see, there is not much gain in going from a symetrical to a larger reverse. http://members.***.net/jason99ta/TRcam_comparison.jpg
I guess it all depends on what you are looking for.

JoSeY

Yes, I did compare...they're on my other HD in for service right now...but I lost NOTHING from 1200-7000.....pulled like a banshi.

if you want the MOST out of ur cam w/out having to spend a lot on heads or decking..then go the 232/240 .595/.602 112....that cam has been putting down suburb numbers.