Oil pressure unit reads but no oil from the heads? FML
#1
Oil pressure unit reads but no oil from the heads? FML
I bought a 2000 Firehawk not too long ago and I was racing an Audi RS4. He started pulling away but I was not in the power ban so I shifted down but went from 4 to 1. The only thing I fucked up was a rod. Replaced the heads and rods and kept getting a knock. Well I finally got everything back together and changed from regular to synthetic. Now I am getting no oil out of the top of the heads. I checked everything when I had the heads off. Every rod, every lifter, every spring, even the guide that keeps the rods in place. I am worried that I may have spun a cam bearing however, I would get something from one of them. There's no way you can spin all the bearings at once. So the only think I can think of is the oil pump. I have a new LS6 ported pump but wanted to make sure I was on the right track.
Is there a way to prim your oil system? So that I can tell if there is oil coming out of the top end?
Is there a way to prim your oil system? So that I can tell if there is oil coming out of the top end?
#2
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (23)
The only way I k now of is to pull the spark plugs and just use the starter to turn it over.
Not trying to thread jack but this is related - does anyone have a video or picture showing how much oil is supposed to be coming out into the heads? I have good oil pressure according to the gauge but I'm not convinced it's all making up top.
Not trying to thread jack but this is related - does anyone have a video or picture showing how much oil is supposed to be coming out into the heads? I have good oil pressure according to the gauge but I'm not convinced it's all making up top.
#3
TECH Addict
iTrader: (4)
Are you only watching it at idle, or does it stay dry in the heads even after driving? You won't see much if any oil in the heads at idle. Rev it up to 2000/2500...but get something ready to catch the mess if oil does pump up the pushrods at that point...a cam bearing shouldn't have any effect on oil getting to the heads...unless it's missing. Oil into the cam bearings just goes back into the crank case after oiling the cam, oil from the block goes into the lifters, and up the pushrods, which is how the rockers in the heads are oiled...if a cam bearing is missing, you might see enough pressure loss to get nothing to the heads...but I'd bet you'd also see that on your oil pressure gauge.
#4
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (23)
At least in my case I was kind of expecting to see something at idle. Just as a test I popped off the oil fill cap and revved it up (cable tb) and oil was flying around. Not massive streams of it like pouring it from the bottle but there was certainly enough to make a mess had the valve covers been off.
#5
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
So you replaced the heads and "rods"...as in PUSH RODS or CONNECTING RODS ?
Sounds like to me you spun a rod bearing and when you kept trying to run it, it chewed the bearing up more and more until it clogged the oil hole(s) up to give you very little-no oil to the top end.
Time to pull the motor out.
Sounds like to me you spun a rod bearing and when you kept trying to run it, it chewed the bearing up more and more until it clogged the oil hole(s) up to give you very little-no oil to the top end.
Time to pull the motor out.
#7
TECH Addict
iTrader: (4)
Oil into the cam bearings just goes back into the crank case after oiling the cam, oil from the block goes into the lifters, and up the pushrods, which is how the rockers in the heads are oiled...if a cam bearing is missing, you might see enough pressure loss to get nothing to the heads...but I'd bet you'd also see that on your oil pressure gauge.
So you replaced the heads and "rods"...as in PUSH RODS or CONNECTING RODS ?
Sounds like to me you spun a rod bearing and when you kept trying to run it, it chewed the bearing up more and more until it clogged the oil hole(s) up to give you very little-no oil to the top end.
Time to pull the motor out.
Sounds like to me you spun a rod bearing and when you kept trying to run it, it chewed the bearing up more and more until it clogged the oil hole(s) up to give you very little-no oil to the top end.
Time to pull the motor out.
How would a spun cam bearing affect oil going into the lifters?
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#8
Are you only watching it at idle, or does it stay dry in the heads even after driving? You won't see much if any oil in the heads at idle. Rev it up to 2000/2500...but get something ready to catch the mess if oil does pump up the pushrods at that point...a cam bearing shouldn't have any effect on oil getting to the heads...unless it's missing. Oil into the cam bearings just goes back into the crank case after oiling the cam, oil from the block goes into the lifters, and up the pushrods, which is how the rockers in the heads are oiled...if a cam bearing is missing, you might see enough pressure loss to get nothing to the heads...but I'd bet you'd also see that on your oil pressure gauge.
#11
Update: So I replaced the oil pump with a new LS6 ported and polished one. Replaced the o-ring as well. Had to take it apart a few times to get it to sit right. I am still not getting oil pressure from the top of the heads. I did rotate the assembly with the fuel pump off but I think I would get something from the top. Now I am wondering if the synthetic oil I am using is just to thin. Maybe I should move up to a 40 weight. I think I am just going to take apart the motor and make a 427. :-(
#12
Are you only watching it at idle, or does it stay dry in the heads even after driving? You won't see much if any oil in the heads at idle. Rev it up to 2000/2500...but get something ready to catch the mess if oil does pump up the pushrods at that point...a cam bearing shouldn't have any effect on oil getting to the heads...unless it's missing. Oil into the cam bearings just goes back into the crank case after oiling the cam, oil from the block goes into the lifters, and up the pushrods, which is how the rockers in the heads are oiled...if a cam bearing is missing, you might see enough pressure loss to get nothing to the heads...but I'd bet you'd also see that on your oil pressure gauge.[/QUOTE]
I don't really want to risk destroying my motor. That's why I am not driving it at all.
I don't really want to risk destroying my motor. That's why I am not driving it at all.
#15
now that i have replaced my oil pump with the ported one, i am reading 60+ oil pressure but still not sure if I am getting oil from the top. I am getting a ticking sound and have a metal-to-metal sound. Also, I have oil in my reservoir under my battery. But no oil from the radiator. I think its time for a new short block but don't want to spend the money if i don't have to. Where would that come from? I replaced the head gaskets and nobody better say cracked block. LOL
#16
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
Noise top or bottom? Preload set right? Rocker arms good? Springs ok? I assume you checked all that when the heads were off... Have you cut open an oil filter yet?
If your oil pressure is good it is more than likely a top end issue.... What is your oil presure after 30 minutes of driving?
If your oil pressure is good it is more than likely a top end issue.... What is your oil presure after 30 minutes of driving?
#17
Noise top or bottom? Preload set right? Rocker arms good? Springs ok? I assume you checked all that when the heads were off... Have you cut open an oil filter yet?
If your oil pressure is good it is more than likely a top end issue.... What is your oil presure after 30 minutes of driving?
If your oil pressure is good it is more than likely a top end issue.... What is your oil presure after 30 minutes of driving?