ncfastls1

iTrader: (1)

I'm pretty much screwed. Yesterday on my way to work it was raining very hard and the roads flooded; I tried to avoid it by going through the mall parking lot to get to the other side and I ended up going through a large puddle that was a LOT deeper than it looked. Engine stalled, I coasted through the puddle, tried to crank it again and heard a knock so I immediately cut it off. Had it towed to a small local shop that I don't really trust but my dad is friends with them and it's the only place I can get it looked at without getting my entire bank account drained. The shop needed to hear the noise so I started it for them. There is a loud knock coming from the engine. I'm 99% sure it is either a spun bearing or a broken rod. I'm guessing the motor is pretty much done for...I'm so pissed right now I feel like I just lost a child or something.

What are my options? How bad will the damage most likely be? If it ends up being just a spun bearing, is there any way the crank/connecting rod can be salvaged? If it's a broken rod I'm assuming the cylinder will be all fucked up, among other things. Is my best bet just looking for a cheap used LS1 in the parts classified and getting it shipped here if it isn't local? If I did that I would part out my old motor as soon as the new one was in, to help recover some of the money I would have to spend.

And I absolutely refuse to sell the car, it's my baby and I have put so much money and time into it that I won't be able to recover. This is my daily driver so I'm currently out of a car...I'm driving my dads car for today but I'm most likely going to have to get a rental car, so I need to figure out this situation soon.

Darkman

iTrader: (2)

If you have comprehensive auto insurance coverage, call your insurance company and see it they cover water/flood damage.

ncfastls1

iTrader: (1)

I only have liability currently. I was going to switch to comprehensive when my tickets dropped off my insurance

Darkman

iTrader: (2)

Since tearing the motor down to find out what is wrong is the same as tearing it down to part it out it would seem that the first step is obvious. The first decision is whether you will tear it down yourself or have a shop do it. If a shop is going to do it you will presumably want it to be a shop that you trust, and one that will store it if you need to work out where the replacement parts (e.g. shortblock) will come from.

Anthony Williams

iTrader: (3)

If the carnage is total you can buy a used LSx or LQ for cheap in the salvage yard.

L92 fox

iTrader: (2)

Just find a lq4 from a junkyard. I paid 1000 for a 80k mile complete motor.

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

^ not all the people want the weight of an iron block, that and if he put the lq4/9 in stock he'd actually be loosing power. Depending on how handy the op is I'd find an ls1 and swap it in or rebuild the current one himself. If he did a stock rebuild himself it wouldnt be be much more than a grand depending on parts choice. Personally if he needed it back up and running and wanted it to be simple I would find a used ls1 short block and swap his heads and intake on it.

lifeisgood

iTrader: (4)

cheapest route is used short block. u can find a cheap 4.8 or 5.3. youll loose some power but its a cheap fixed for now

98c5ls1

iTrader: (1)

i with redbird here.. i have been searching the planet for ls based engines and there are about a million available in many different forms and stages of completion etc.. you are going to be out a couple thousand though to get it back on the road

98c5ls1

iTrader: (1)

also, i have a 98 ls1 all original long block for 1200 plus shipping and i can go start it for you while you listen. im 78249, you figure the shipping and let me know

airforcemanss

iTrader: (23)

just by reading what you said it seems as though you will be keeping this car for a long time. If this is true, i would look into sdce strokers. they have good prices. if your going to spend a grand on another used engine i would mind as well suck it up and get a brand new shortblock with forged parts. a 383 ls1 wouldn't kill you on the wallet.

usafws6

iTrader: (10)

ls6 long block ftw. not too pricey at 3300. slight power gain as well over stock for those of us who dont need forged motors.

ncfastls1

iTrader: (1)

I don't want to buy a used long block because it's kind of a waste of money when I already have perfectly good heads/intake/etc. I'm really hoping I can just reuse my block. If that's the case I can look for use crank/rods/pistons (maybe forged depending on prices), and worst case I can get a brand new rotating assembly from TSP for $1400. But for now I have a few questions:

1. How exactly am I going to get the oil pan off? The k-member is in the way so am I going to have to drop the k-member or take the whole engine out? At the moment I just need to figure out what exactly broke. It's either a spun bearing or broken rod.

2. The car will be sitting for a long time and I know there is water in the engine. Will the water start to corrode things if I don't flush it out? If so how exactly would I go about doing a flush? (keep in mind even though the car will start I don't want to run it so more damage isn't done).

3. I will be draining the coolant, I was planning on doing it before the engine fucked up anyway cause it has never been changed and it's got 83k miles on it. Is it ok if I don't get all of it out? Or will the dexcool corrode the block if it is left in there too long while being exposed to air? If that's the case....how would I go about flushing it out completely?

I will be draining the oil as soon as my jack and stands arrive (should be tomorrow) so I can see if any metal is in the oil.

Oh and also, does anyone know the best way to label parts? Like when I am removing and disconnecting everything, I want to make sure to label all the wires/hoses/etc, I want some like sticky labels that will stay in place for a while that I can write on.

z99ls1

iTrader: (12)

There are like 6 bolts and you can drop the motor out the botom on the k-member and roll it out on the wheels. You are going to have to pull the motor anyways so might as well get to it. It really isn't to bad pulling it out the bottom. If your concerned about labeling things to make sure you know where everything goes than just take pictures as you go...

ncfastls1

iTrader: (1)

Ok, but I only have a low profile jack and some stands. I don't think I'll be able to lift it up high enough to clear the motor under the bottom.

SS69LS1

iTrader: (108)

If it still runs, it may not be that bad. Every hydrolocked LS1 I've run across snaps the #7 (i think) rod. It spins freely and busts the side of the block out. If the rod is bent, motor usually locks up. I'd get it apart. Pull the top of the motor apart, heads and all. The short block can come out the top, but its still a pain. Use blue masking tape & sharpie to label most parts. Take some pics & show us what you find.

BOBS99SS

iTrader: (2)

If I was in your shoes I would take your time and do it right,paint engine bay,clean and paint parts ,etc.I know when its your dd a project like this can be tuff,but if ya can swing it go for it.imo a lq4,q9 swap is pretty cheap and a good upgrade,but I would at least go bigger but that's just me. When something fails go bigger and better. Good luck man

trans_am7935

iTrader: (15)

if the motor still starts, then it is not a broken rod, as that would have punched a hole in your oil pan, most likly it is a bent rod, as you can not compress water and that in case will bend the weakest point, the rod.

for removing the water, best bet is pulling the heads. there is no getting around it really, looks like with a knock like that you are gonna have to pull the heads. it is not that hard pulling the heads, just be sure to label everything and put it back right. check out my build page as i labled all my stuff an just did a heads and cam swap. also if your heads are damaged, a lifter or a the cam, then i have some spare stuff, would be willing to go real cheap on them for a guy in need

the coolant has additives to be non corrosive, so leaving some in there will actually help if form drying up and forming mold, you will be fine

for the labeling thing, pictures are your best bet, and get a 2 inch fat rool of blue tape, take 1"x3" pieces of tape, fold it in half over the wire near the connector and place the 2 sticky ends together, then label it. easy day.

i hope u just bent a valve or something and not hurt the short block, if that is the case, new set of heads and you are golden!!!!!

good luck with your tear-down, but really simple tools, lots of patience, a wife that will put up with all your yelling and swearing, and it will get done.

rajeevx7

iTrader: (2)

I agree with SS69. We believe, if a connecting rod was snapped....dude that is some obvious damage. Hole in the motor or it is wedged and will not turn.

Did your team pull the plugs and spin the motor to push any water out? They couldn't have tried to compress and combust like everything was normal! In anycase, GET THE WATER OUT! You will rust the sleeves and valves before you can say WD40!!

Sounds like you are on the correct path with the spun bearing/s though. Replace it from the bottom if at all possible. Hopefully nothing else is bent. I wouldn't pull the crank just yet, but I would pull the valvetrain for a quick looksie.

Good luck bro!

1arcticZ

good luck my man talk to trans_am7935 he sounds like he knows what hes doing and is willing to help! i love how everyone on the forum is always willing to help eachother out! thats what this place is all about mine is also a DD so i understand feeling down and ****. good luck my friend let me know how it goes!