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N/A..what motor to assure me 10's w/stock weight?

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Old 02-25-2004, 01:42 PM   #1
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Default N/A..what motor to assure me 10's w/stock weight?

I want to go 10's with stock weight. What motor N/A would you recommend?

I was thinking a 408 ironblock or something similar. I want to be able to spray it as well...

I will be working with a budget so who has good prices...but will put the the potential in the car to do it.

I was thinking Futral...cuz they are the closest place that I could do a big name install with...and because they have a good rep. for putting up the power and ET's.

Let me know. I have Absolute Speed stage 2 5.3's, 230/236 cam, Yella Terras, 977 springs, Comp R lifters, All the suspension stuff/chasis stuff as well, 12 bolt w/4.11's and every upgrade.

Rest of the mods are in the sig.

The car Dyno'd 415 hp, and 386 tq
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Old 02-25-2004, 02:04 PM   #2
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If you are going to keep those heads then I would go with a 383 stroker.
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Old 02-25-2004, 02:17 PM   #3
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IMOP you can achieve this without the added cube's. You just have to have the car setup correctly with the right combo and be a good driver.
At the same time to be 100% you will run 10's then here is what I would suggest.
I am going to make my suggestion's based on a budget. You said you had a budget but didn't say what it was.
AP 408 short block using the Eagle stroker kit. Very cheap under 4000 I believe.
I would do either 11.7 C/R pistons and use a 6.0 Liter head which would make it around 11.2, or I would use 10.7 C/R pistons with a LS6 head which should give you similar compression. (If you had the money do the LS6)
This means that you would sell the 5.3's. I personally love AS heads and would do the stage 3 6.0 or LS6 heads from them.
Next would be the cam. Because you will have bigger cubic inches a bigger cam is more driveable. 240+ duration and 610+ lift would be a good combo that you could still take on the street every now and then. If you are running juice I would probally go with a 113 LSA, without the juice in a M6 then a 110-112 would be best.
The headers you have now should work well, but maybe not quite as well as 1 7/8".
A LSX 90mm Intake and 90mm TB wouldn't hurt anything either.
Then you need to get the car TUNED, TUNED, and more TUNED....
However just because you have a great setup dosen't mean you are in the 10's.
You need mad suspension. You will need a Full Slick that can handle a 6000 RMP launch with 500+ ft lbs of torque. You will need everything to get the weight to transfer to the rear. The 12 bolt should be fine, and with 4.10's you will need a cam that makes power up to 6500+ RPS so that you can get through the 1/4 without shifting 5th.
You must beable to drive the car extreemly well.
Futural is a good company, I just haven't seen anyone beat AP Engineering's prices, and their customer service is great as well.
Brian and Chris are the 2 that seem to run the place.
Good luck on your quest.
Let us know what you decide to do.
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Old 02-25-2004, 02:19 PM   #4
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I also agree with 11 Bravo. Those heads are maxed out with 382 CI's. And wouldn't go any bigger without going to a different head.
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Old 02-25-2004, 03:30 PM   #5
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Yeah, AP does have a good deal on the 408 but like was stated, you would need bigger heads plus you have the extra weight of an iron block. Shoot, get a Lunati rotating assembly and bigger cam, find someone to put it in and tune and get some slicks and spray the hell out of it. Kinda wish I had done that instead.
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Old 02-25-2004, 03:51 PM   #6
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David Coates Ran an 10.8 if im not mistaken on a set of slicks and a 10 bolt/3.73 with MTI heads and cam and a 100 shot. That being his only run due to no cage, so im sure its plenty more ET left in it. This was also done on a stock bottom end being pushed to 555RWHP on the bottle.
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Old 02-25-2004, 04:04 PM   #7
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well whats the average person need for 10's? 500whp NA?...any stroker can do that, and a VERY aggressive heads/cam setup for 346
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Old 02-25-2004, 04:30 PM   #8
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The extra weight of the ironblock is not a big deal. Instead of going with the 382..I can go with the ironblock...which with the extra cubes should off-set the weight by making more HP.

How are the eagle cranks holding up??
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416/386 (broke a driveshaft during this run)
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Old 02-25-2004, 05:48 PM   #9
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Old 02-25-2004, 05:56 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Cammin BeaSSt
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Uhhh, looks like STOCK WEIGHT in that title to me

Not one seat, bumper supports removed, and drag wheels
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Old 02-25-2004, 05:57 PM   #11
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AP also has some Callies Cranks available or they may have some left if you call them. They are building my a 408 as well . The Eagle cranks have not been out long enough to determine how strong they are but they will need extra care take to the balance/clearance issues.

Do you guys think a 408 can do 10's easily? Or is it something in which you would have to be an awesome driver etc,etc, to do?
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Old 02-25-2004, 06:10 PM   #12
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Damian, how would you know how my car is setup @ the track?? You have NEVER been


Yea, front bumper support is 18lbs, seat is 32lbs and drag wheels should be on ANYTHING goin 10s. My raceweight is 3410lbs with my 195lb *** in it... I could add the 100 lbs back it to and still run high 10.90s... What the hell am I talking to you for, the only thing you race is the dyno


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Uhhh, looks like STOCK WEIGHT in that title to me

Not one seat, bumper supports removed, and drag wheels
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Old 02-25-2004, 06:11 PM   #13
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Old 02-25-2004, 06:24 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike K.
AP also has some Callies Cranks available or they may have some left if you call them. They are building my a 408 as well . The Eagle cranks have not been out long enough to determine how strong they are but they will need extra care take to the balance/clearance issues.

Do you guys think a 408 can do 10's easily? Or is it something in which you would have to be an awesome driver etc,etc, to do?
Mike you cant seem to make up your mind
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Old 02-25-2004, 06:25 PM   #15
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Quote:
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You 2 are so sweet
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Old 02-25-2004, 06:48 PM   #16
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Mike #9 it is going to take 500rwhp plus to run 10's NA with a iron block. Depending on how much you weigh is going to determine what your stock raceweight is. My stock raceweight was over 3750lbs with me in the car. Another weight a 100lbs less than me would see 3650lbs. Futral Motorsports is the place that can build you the monster you seek. Futral is building my 409ci and my setup is being built strictly for the street racing scene, but still be able to drive across country in comfort if need be. Do I want a 10 sec NA car? Only if it can run those same times on the street, but not on the drag radials I am going to be sporting. So I will settle for low 11's at say 127mph..
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Old 02-25-2004, 08:53 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cammin BeaSSt
and drag wheels should be on ANYTHING goin 10s.
Damn, now I gotta get rid of my stock 17" WS6 rims and my 275 Nitto DR's.
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Old 02-25-2004, 09:04 PM   #18
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Damn, now I gotta get rid of my stock 17" WS6 rims and my 275 Nitto DR's.

NA???
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Old 02-25-2004, 09:21 PM   #19
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I just ordered my 408 rotating assembly from AP Engineering, they are supper cool to deal with. They still have Callies cranks. I am hoping for low 11s on some spray, but I have a little fatter vehicle.
Also I ordeded my kit and told them 10.0 compression, I thought this compression was with 6.0 heads not 5.7 heads. Was I wrong?
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Old 02-25-2004, 09:34 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by VINCE
NA???
Of course not!!

I'd have jumped all over your thread about going to Tampa to bust down that Vette if I was running that NA in a full blown street car.

H/C, forged internals and TNT 150 shot. I cant get it any lighter without making it more like a race car (seats/drag rims/!bumper supports). It broke my heart having to put the 88 lb roll bar in it.
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Old 02-25-2004, 09:34 PM
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