Running way too hot (yes I've searched)
08-10-2011, 09:35 AM
#1
Running way too hot (yes I've searched) First of all, this is an LQ9 in a fox-body Mustang.
Motor is basically stock, TSP Tsunami cam, Dynatech 1 7/8th long tubes, tuned via HP Tuners (14.6:1 across the board).
The car started running hot after I added A/C. In response I swapped out the f-body radiator for a 28x19x3 double pass (2 1" cores) radiator. Still have the same problem. Car will just slowly keep rising in temp up to 230+ when I call it quits and head home.
So far I have installed a sleeve in the upper radiator hose to bleed air out, preformed a combustion leak test, pulled all the plugs (they look great), drained oil and coolant (both looked great), gutted the thermostat, set fans to run all the time (stock f-body fans), tried bleeding air multiple times, new radiator cap, etc.
Still have the same problem, with a/c on the cooling system just can't keep up. Car will run cool for a few minutes, then it just keeps getting hotter and hotter. With the a/c off it can maintain temp better, but still runs far too hot considering it's got a giant double pass radiator and an open thermostat with fans on all the time.
Anything I could be missing here? Next step is to try to vacuum fill the system to eliminate the slight possibility of an air pocket, but given that I fill through the upper hose direct into the engine and have a bleeder on the upper hose, it seems like a rather remote possibility.
Motor is basically stock, TSP Tsunami cam, Dynatech 1 7/8th long tubes, tuned via HP Tuners (14.6:1 across the board).
The car started running hot after I added A/C. In response I swapped out the f-body radiator for a 28x19x3 double pass (2 1" cores) radiator. Still have the same problem. Car will just slowly keep rising in temp up to 230+ when I call it quits and head home.
So far I have installed a sleeve in the upper radiator hose to bleed air out, preformed a combustion leak test, pulled all the plugs (they look great), drained oil and coolant (both looked great), gutted the thermostat, set fans to run all the time (stock f-body fans), tried bleeding air multiple times, new radiator cap, etc.
Still have the same problem, with a/c on the cooling system just can't keep up. Car will run cool for a few minutes, then it just keeps getting hotter and hotter. With the a/c off it can maintain temp better, but still runs far too hot considering it's got a giant double pass radiator and an open thermostat with fans on all the time.
Anything I could be missing here? Next step is to try to vacuum fill the system to eliminate the slight possibility of an air pocket, but given that I fill through the upper hose direct into the engine and have a bleeder on the upper hose, it seems like a rather remote possibility.
08-10-2011, 03:29 PM
#2
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What do you know about the motor? Sounds to me like you've done everything possible and unless there is a problem with air being blocked from getting to the motor while driving, I'm going to have to assume there is a deeper problem here. Are you certain there isn't a head gasket problem or a cracked head. I know you said the coolant and oil both look good... but I don't see what else could be causing the problem unless the motor is extremely lean and creating more heat than normal. Keep us posted on what you find out. Sorry to hear about it... I hate chasing cooling issues. Good luck!
Brad
Brad
08-10-2011, 06:41 PM
#4
If you're getting hot when the A/C goes on...its an airflow issue.
If the coolant is flowing normally....you probably have a situation where you changed the way the air flows through the condensor, then through the radiator. The ducting has to be right on as it was designed in the F-Body. Fans on full time won't help if the front ducting isn't right.
OR...you could have a seriously dirty condensor on the exterior thats getting way too hot, which in turn is making the radiator way too hot, then its a snowball effect thing. Is the condensor laying right up against the radiator? Not good if it is.
No air should be able to get sucked through from the side and around the outer perimeter of the condensor and radiator, or inbetween them. All the air has to come straight through from the front.
.
If the coolant is flowing normally....you probably have a situation where you changed the way the air flows through the condensor, then through the radiator. The ducting has to be right on as it was designed in the F-Body. Fans on full time won't help if the front ducting isn't right.
OR...you could have a seriously dirty condensor on the exterior thats getting way too hot, which in turn is making the radiator way too hot, then its a snowball effect thing. Is the condensor laying right up against the radiator? Not good if it is.
No air should be able to get sucked through from the side and around the outer perimeter of the condensor and radiator, or inbetween them. All the air has to come straight through from the front.
.
08-11-2011, 08:19 AM
#5
I have entertained the idea that it might be an airflow situation, but even with a heavy duty utility fan placed in front of the condenser, sitting still, both fans on full blast, no thermostat, huge double pass radiator, it still will eventually get too hot. I am planning on building some shrouding, but it is really hard for me to believe that sitting in a fairly cool garage (granted it's over 100* here all the time), that it can't stay cool idling w/ac on.
As far as blocked coolant passage, not sure how I'd even diagnose that or how/why it'd happen when I added a/c to the car.
There is some type of metal plate/restrictor thing inside the drivers side water pump port, but it looks factory. Anyone know the purpose of this? It appears to be aluminum and is inside the factory LQ9 block.
As far as blocked coolant passage, not sure how I'd even diagnose that or how/why it'd happen when I added a/c to the car.
There is some type of metal plate/restrictor thing inside the drivers side water pump port, but it looks factory. Anyone know the purpose of this? It appears to be aluminum and is inside the factory LQ9 block.
08-11-2011, 06:52 PM
#6
I have entertained the idea that it might be an airflow situation, but even with a heavy duty utility fan placed in front of the condenser, sitting still, both fans on full blast, no thermostat, huge double pass radiator, it still will eventually get too hot. I am planning on building some shrouding, but it is really hard for me to believe that sitting in a fairly cool garage (granted it's over 100* here all the time), that it can't stay cool idling w/ac on.
As far as blocked coolant passage, not sure how I'd even diagnose that or how/why it'd happen when I added a/c to the car.
There is some type of metal plate/restrictor thing inside the drivers side water pump port, but it looks factory. Anyone know the purpose of this? It appears to be aluminum and is inside the factory LQ9 block.
As far as blocked coolant passage, not sure how I'd even diagnose that or how/why it'd happen when I added a/c to the car.
There is some type of metal plate/restrictor thing inside the drivers side water pump port, but it looks factory. Anyone know the purpose of this? It appears to be aluminum and is inside the factory LQ9 block.
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08-12-2011, 08:28 AM
#9
First, running w/o the t'stat is prolly hurting you worse than helping. From what I understand, no t'stat results in internal circulation. Then the metal plate thing...sounds completely unnatural to me. Remove it and see what happens. FWIW, I have a cheapo Jeg's dual-pass 26x19 core radiator and a stock (but shimmed) t'stat and it runs 170° in 100° heat with the A/C on.
