Ohmyneck

Right now I have an 01 Firehawk with 22K miles. I'm burning about 3 quarts of oil every 3K miles. My warrenty went out last month so I'm all on my own for this one. I plan to replace my PCV valvue with the LS6 PCV and do a compression test next week... If the compression test comes back, and somthing is major wrong I plan to either bore or stoke my motor, getting rid of those bad rings. Anyways for a street car that is my daily driver which would be more pratcial.. or any advice on what other options i have? I dont wanna spend over 2K so i know that the stroker kit is pretty much out of the option..

Thanks Brandon

Wesley SS

All bore I heard is pretty nice for a daily driver and they dont cost too much money they make great power. I would bore it. Thats just my .02 Good luck.

94form2000z

iTrader: (10)

Hey I believe you have a 5/50000 warranty on drivetrain don't ya??

Ohmyneck

nope no warrenty like that. I think i just have the 3 year 36,000 mile warrenty. I called and asked them when my warrenty was up and they said last month. So i guess its my baby now. I'm gonna do a compression test next week, and if it comes up bad I'll probably just bore the motor.. How much would it cost me to bore a completely stock motor? Would I gain some nice hp numbers?

UGotBeaT

Im in the same place as you are but Im just having my shortblock rebuilt with stock parts cept for FM bearings and different piston rings, but im putting in a new cam and ported ls6 pump because I dont have enough money for a stroker kit. I know Eagle has a stroker kit for like 2,000 and I think AP engineering carries them im not sure check with them.

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

Setting the limit at $2K also cuts out both all bore and all strokers. Just the sleeving process will cost $2,500. You best bet if you want to keep it cheap is to get forged pistons for a 0.005" overbore, new rings, and go with that.

I have an 01 Z28 and when I had 20K miles, I was eating the same about of oil as you are now. Its the soft rings and the bore not being done with a torque plate. I'm now at 50K miles and am rebuilding to solve the problem (I was at a quart every 500 miles). I removed the pistons and there were NO CRACKS of any kind. The valve seals were like new (not a drop of oil in the ports).

Ohmyneck

So you guys think my best bet would be to go with Forged Internals? What about diffrent rings? Could I just re-ring my pistons now and that maybe fix the problem? I really wanted to spend 2K on a new rear end, but that looks like it should be the last thing on my mind now that I have this problem. Thanks alot for the help guys

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

I'm not sure if I would do "forged internals" (depends on what you want the motor to do). I was saying a good rebuild (clean up the stock crank, rods, and block) but with forged pistons (instead of cast). That can be done for about $2-$2.5K . If you do want to go with forged rods, I really like the Eagle rods I baught for my new motor. You could get a set of those for about $450.

Don't change the crank. Thats $1K that won't get you anything (unless your are going WAYYYYY OUTTTT on HP).

chino_man279

iTrader: (7)

I would say just do a .005 cleanup hone and buy some diamond pistons to put on the stock rods and crank. Re-ring it and get some new bearings and call it good. AP Engineering will sell you a completely machined bare block with main studs and bearings installed. Give them a call or email them.------->

Joe

chino_man279

iTrader: (7)

Oh yeah, don't forget to upgrade your rod bolts too, while you are at it.

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

even better, upgrade ALL bolts while your at it