Have GTO. Have LS6. Give me some ideas.
#1
Have GTO. Have LS6. Give me some ideas.
So I ran across a low miles LS6 for cheap money so I grabbed it.
Motor is clean and complete. I want to crank it up a bit and put it in the GTO.
I'm pretty noobish to the LS world but I've been doing some asking/homework.
My goals:
Highest rpm possible without immediate failures.
Reasonable drivability (drive 150 miles a day min for work)
Reasonable mileage (same reason)
Max N/A power on pump gas.
Current plan:
Kooks 1 7/8 longtubes (bought already)
No cats
3 inch custom exhaust, dual, with dynomax ultraflow X pipe and dynomax VT mufflers
LSX 102 intake and tb
102 mm maf housing with 2010 camaro maf
Texas speed MS3
Dual valve springs (reccomendations??)
Twin disc clutch (spec probably?)
42# ford injectors (have already)
HP tuners (have already)
Double roller adjustable timing chain (maybe retard the cam a little?)
Ktech rod bolts
Shim the oil pressure relief
Straighten me out if I have any fail ideas here, but going for 7500 rpm and 475hp, torque doesnt really concern me as much as a fat high powerband.
Thanks for reading.
Motor is clean and complete. I want to crank it up a bit and put it in the GTO.
I'm pretty noobish to the LS world but I've been doing some asking/homework.
My goals:
Highest rpm possible without immediate failures.
Reasonable drivability (drive 150 miles a day min for work)
Reasonable mileage (same reason)
Max N/A power on pump gas.
Current plan:
Kooks 1 7/8 longtubes (bought already)
No cats
3 inch custom exhaust, dual, with dynomax ultraflow X pipe and dynomax VT mufflers
LSX 102 intake and tb
102 mm maf housing with 2010 camaro maf
Texas speed MS3
Dual valve springs (reccomendations??)
Twin disc clutch (spec probably?)
42# ford injectors (have already)
HP tuners (have already)
Double roller adjustable timing chain (maybe retard the cam a little?)
Ktech rod bolts
Shim the oil pressure relief
Straighten me out if I have any fail ideas here, but going for 7500 rpm and 475hp, torque doesnt really concern me as much as a fat high powerband.
Thanks for reading.
#3
I'd love it to rev to 8k but I know thats not reasonable with a streetable hydraulic/pushrod valve train.
#5
why the "i want to rev to 7500 rpm???"
sounds more like a cool factor or something. its out of the power band of most cams for these cars and its not needed to spin these motors that high anyway.
once a month theres a thread on here regarding "i want to build a ...ls... and spin to 8 k....makes no sense to me.
all in all plan looks good. i think 475 will be hard on stock 243's. and i think the fast 102 isnt needed. i vote drop the 102 idea. thats 1300 bucks. and keep the stock ls6 intake and invest that money in heads....
then get a custom spec'd cam for your setup. i think it will put you closer to your goal.
also, me personally, i like a cam that's advanced just to get into the powerband quicker. these are heavy cars. in my mind....torque beats horsepower any day.
sounds more like a cool factor or something. its out of the power band of most cams for these cars and its not needed to spin these motors that high anyway.
once a month theres a thread on here regarding "i want to build a ...ls... and spin to 8 k....makes no sense to me.
all in all plan looks good. i think 475 will be hard on stock 243's. and i think the fast 102 isnt needed. i vote drop the 102 idea. thats 1300 bucks. and keep the stock ls6 intake and invest that money in heads....
then get a custom spec'd cam for your setup. i think it will put you closer to your goal.
also, me personally, i like a cam that's advanced just to get into the powerband quicker. these are heavy cars. in my mind....torque beats horsepower any day.
#6
Maybe this is a stupid question, but why bother swapping an otherwise stock LS6 shortblock (unless you are forging it) into the GTO? I take it you currently have an LS1 GTO? Pull the 243 heads off that LS6, have them ported and polished, pick out a nice cam, and throw it into your LS1. Hold on to the LS6 block you have for a future forged build or sell it. With the LS6 intake manifold already on your GTO, and some 243 heads you will basically already have your LS6 for all intents and purposes.
#7
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (5)
Reasonable mileage (same reason)
Max N/A power on pump gas
Max N/A power on pump gas
You do a boosted engine and get the same power with better mpgs than stock.
Trending Topics
#8
I'm swapping to the LS6 block because it already has better breathing, lower miles, slightly better crank and pistons, more compression, better oiling(especially for higher rpm)and its together. I'll sell the complete LS1 later.
I understand that its not going to get 30 mpg and that pump gas isnt going to make 600 whp. I'm ok with 15mpg, I just dont want single digits.
That being said, I'm sure theres a high rpm streetable combo that can be had with a LS6.
If 7000 is the max reasonable rpm I can do, then ok, 7 grand it is. It doesnt HAVE to rev to the moon, thats just my preferred driving style. With IRS and gay rear diff, torque isnt the answer for anything that I do with the car.
Thanks for the replies so far, I'm here to learn.
I understand that its not going to get 30 mpg and that pump gas isnt going to make 600 whp. I'm ok with 15mpg, I just dont want single digits.
That being said, I'm sure theres a high rpm streetable combo that can be had with a LS6.
If 7000 is the max reasonable rpm I can do, then ok, 7 grand it is. It doesnt HAVE to rev to the moon, thats just my preferred driving style. With IRS and gay rear diff, torque isnt the answer for anything that I do with the car.
Thanks for the replies so far, I'm here to learn.
#9
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: San Francisco Ca.
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The GTO LS1 already has the LS6 block, crank, pistons, etc and intake, you just need the heads and wallah you have and LS6. Get the heads ported, get a cam and put them on your current motor. Keep the LS6 block and build it up later for when you pop the original, which you will do if your spinning 7500rpms. Just FYI most LSX intakes aren't tuned for 7500 rpm, they're made to produce power/torque under 7000 rpm. You will need a custom intake to spin that high and still make power.
Last edited by hardcore4sure; 09-09-2011 at 01:45 PM.
#10
Mathematically the piston speed seems more than acceptable at 7500 rpm, is it really that big of a deal spinning past 7k with a LS1?? What is going to come apart? Should I just fix that now? Theres nothing wrong with my current motor at all besides not being fast enough lol
#11
Mathematically the piston speed seems more than acceptable at 7500 rpm, is it really that big of a deal spinning past 7k with a LS1?? What is going to come apart? Should I just fix that now? Theres nothing wrong with my current motor at all besides not being fast enough lol
#12
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: San Francisco Ca.
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
On the stock bottom end lets see. Rod bolts won't hold, pistons aren't forged so heat will be an issue with them, rings probably won't hold unless upgraded, valve springs, valves would need a serious upgrade including titanium where ever possible , rocker arms would need to be upgraded to something like Jesel very pricey and girdle, internal bearings would need attention, may need to go to dry sump oil system. You would also need to strengthen the main caps, maybe titanium rods . I'm mean just off the top of the head those are some of the issues that would need to be addressed for 7500 rpms and reliability. If you want to approach NASCAR revs you need NASCAR $$$$. Light car go for HP, heavy car and a week rear end strong Midrange TQ and HP up to 7000 is what you need. Just food for thought.
#13
The other idea is to sell or trade your LS6 for a LQ4/9. Sure, the iron blocks weigh a little more, but going that route will give you a 4" bore to play with. Then you can still sell your LS1 short block and use all of your existing accessories.
#14
On the stock bottom end lets see. Rod bolts won't hold, pistons aren't forged so heat will be an issue with them, rings probably won't hold unless upgraded, valve springs, valves would need a serious upgrade including titanium where ever possible , rocker arms would need to be upgraded to something like Jesel very pricey and girdle, internal bearings would need attention, may need to go to dry sump oil system. You would also need to strengthen the main caps, maybe titanium rods . I'm mean just off the top of the head those are some of the issues that would need to be addressed for 7500 rpms and reliability. If you want to approach NASCAR revs you need NASCAR $$$$. Light car go for HP, heavy car and a week rear end strong Midrange TQ and HP up to 7000 is what you need. Just food for thought.
#15
TECH Fanatic
with a cam that will pull past 7k you wont start making power till 5k it's going to be a slow boring trip to 5,000rpm in an street car that weighs close to 2 tons. plus your car will have horable drivability and be a general pain in the *** to drive. you have 16 valves and 1 cam not 32 valves and 4 cams 7,500rpm is just stupid, you'll just break parts and loose races.
#16
TECH Apprentice
Join Date: May 2006
Location: South Florida
Posts: 361
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
why the "i want to rev to 7500 rpm???"
sounds more like a cool factor or something. its out of the power band of most cams for these cars and its not needed to spin these motors that high anyway.
once a month theres a thread on here regarding "i want to build a ...ls... and spin to 8 k....makes no sense to me.
all in all plan looks good. i think 475 will be hard on stock 243's. and i think the fast 102 isnt needed. i vote drop the 102 idea. thats 1300 bucks. and keep the stock ls6 intake and invest that money in heads....
then get a custom spec'd cam for your setup. i think it will put you closer to your goal.
also, me personally, i like a cam that's advanced just to get into the powerband quicker. these are heavy cars. in my mind....torque beats horsepower any day.
sounds more like a cool factor or something. its out of the power band of most cams for these cars and its not needed to spin these motors that high anyway.
once a month theres a thread on here regarding "i want to build a ...ls... and spin to 8 k....makes no sense to me.
all in all plan looks good. i think 475 will be hard on stock 243's. and i think the fast 102 isnt needed. i vote drop the 102 idea. thats 1300 bucks. and keep the stock ls6 intake and invest that money in heads....
then get a custom spec'd cam for your setup. i think it will put you closer to your goal.
also, me personally, i like a cam that's advanced just to get into the powerband quicker. these are heavy cars. in my mind....torque beats horsepower any day.
#17
This is why I dont get it I guess
This is my subaru, I built the motor and tuned it.
100mm bore, 75mm stroke.
Stock crank.
Stock block.
Eagle H beam rods, wiseco pistons.
Stock heads
Stock valves
Single springs with titanium retainers
130# injectors, 86mm turbo
It has been HELD above 9k for literally hours and hours with no issues. I drift it. Nothing balanced, no dampener on the crank at all.
This is why I'm puzzled that 7500 is a lot lol. Smaller bore, larger stroke, but still not a long stroke by my considerations. I know its far from apples to apples, I get that, but I'm quite familiar with building, tuning, and operation. Just looking for LS specific tips and parts to use. I'm not planning on drifting or seriously racing the gto, but once its sideways I want something to work with thats all.
This I'm ok with. Thats why I got the model that lets me pick which gear I'm in and when to dis-engage the motor from the tranny :-) Subaru doesnt get full boost till 6400.
This I'm not ok with.... but my definition of horrible driving and pain in the *** is pretty loose compared to most people
This is my subaru, I built the motor and tuned it.
100mm bore, 75mm stroke.
Stock crank.
Stock block.
Eagle H beam rods, wiseco pistons.
Stock heads
Stock valves
Single springs with titanium retainers
130# injectors, 86mm turbo
It has been HELD above 9k for literally hours and hours with no issues. I drift it. Nothing balanced, no dampener on the crank at all.
This is why I'm puzzled that 7500 is a lot lol. Smaller bore, larger stroke, but still not a long stroke by my considerations. I know its far from apples to apples, I get that, but I'm quite familiar with building, tuning, and operation. Just looking for LS specific tips and parts to use. I'm not planning on drifting or seriously racing the gto, but once its sideways I want something to work with thats all.
plus your car will have horable drivability and be a general pain in the *** to drive
Last edited by Turbo Mike; 09-09-2011 at 03:11 PM.
#19
This is why I dont get it I guess
This is my subaru, I built the motor and tuned it.
100mm bore, 75mm stroke.
Stock crank.
Stock block.
Eagle H beam rods, wiseco pistons.
Stock heads
Stock valves
Single springs with titanium retainers
130# injectors, 86mm turbo
It has been HELD above 9k for literally hours and hours with no issues. I drift it. Nothing balanced, no dampener on the crank at all.
This is why I'm puzzled that 7500 is a lot lol. Smaller bore, larger stroke, but still not a long stroke by my considerations. I know its far from apples to apples, I get that, but I'm quite familiar with building, tuning, and operation. Just looking for LS specific tips and parts to use. I'm not planning on drifting or seriously racing the gto, but once its sideways I want something to work with thats all.
This I'm ok with. Thats why I got the model that lets me pick which gear I'm in and when to dis-engage the motor from the tranny :-) Subaru doesnt get full boost till 6400.
This I'm not ok with.... but my definition of horrible driving and pain in the *** is pretty loose compared to most people
This is my subaru, I built the motor and tuned it.
100mm bore, 75mm stroke.
Stock crank.
Stock block.
Eagle H beam rods, wiseco pistons.
Stock heads
Stock valves
Single springs with titanium retainers
130# injectors, 86mm turbo
It has been HELD above 9k for literally hours and hours with no issues. I drift it. Nothing balanced, no dampener on the crank at all.
This is why I'm puzzled that 7500 is a lot lol. Smaller bore, larger stroke, but still not a long stroke by my considerations. I know its far from apples to apples, I get that, but I'm quite familiar with building, tuning, and operation. Just looking for LS specific tips and parts to use. I'm not planning on drifting or seriously racing the gto, but once its sideways I want something to work with thats all.
This I'm ok with. Thats why I got the model that lets me pick which gear I'm in and when to dis-engage the motor from the tranny :-) Subaru doesnt get full boost till 6400.
This I'm not ok with.... but my definition of horrible driving and pain in the *** is pretty loose compared to most people
#20
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (26)
Bottom line 7k rpm is max with the parts you posted. If you want a high rpm setup, you will need: FORGED BOTTOM END, SHAFT MOUNT ROCKERS W/ SUPPORTING VALVETRAIN, SOLID ROLLER CAMSHAFT, CARB STYLE INTAKE( Super Vic). Plastic intakes lop off air flow above 6800rpm. You can try running the stock bottom end, but its not going to survive those rpms for very long. Thats why most people go with a big cube, lower rpm, lots pwr/tq under the curve setup. it's more reliable, streetable, and overall more fun to drive because power under the curve is what makes a fast street car!
Last edited by kinglt-1; 09-09-2011 at 05:37 PM.