JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

On the way home from auto-x today, I noticed an odd sound coming from the front of the car. It was a high-pitched metallic tinking. It was not regular with the RPMs of the car. It didn't happen in 6th gear so far as I could tell, but did occur in the other gears. Also on the way home, my low coolant indicator came on, and I noticed that while waiting at a stop light my oil pressure was around 20psi, rising to 40psi at cruise.

The low coolant indicator didn't particularly scare me because I have an intermittent sensor, however the oil pressure did have me concerned. However, when I would accelerate normally with traffic, the oil pressure didn't decline like it has done in the past when the oil was low. The car seemed to lack a bit of responsiveness so I didn't push it hard.

So I got to within 200ft of my front door of my apartment and the engine all of sudden stutters and dies. I coast into the outside parking area. Autotap says no DTC's at all. I checked the two banks of fuses in the engine bay and one by the driver side door - all are OK. The coolant level was at the Full HOT indicator. The car is parked on an incline, so I can't get a good reading on the oil level. However, the level on the dipstick was maybe 1/4" below the low hash (while on the incline).

I try starting it once after I parked. The oil pressure was rising towards 40psi when the engine died by itself.

I've had multiple broken springs before, but the same symtoms aren't there. Should I pull the valvecovers anyway? I do have a spare set of new 918's. The car seemed to be running fine before the event. With the exception of the A/C dying on me and the starter sometimes not wanting to start the car.

Waddya think, guys?

1999_SS_M6

I think you're going to find your problem under those valvecovers.. be it a bent pushrod, or a broken spring, broken rocker etc etc etc.. I think that's where I'd start.

chino_man279

iTrader: (7)

I would check the pushrods definately. I don't know how it would relate to your oil pressure though. I think the oil pressure is in a safe range albeit on the short end of safe. Like posted above definately check under the valve covers. Maybe you could roll the car in nuetral down the incline to a level surface and then check the oil level also.

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

I do have hardened pushrods, so I doubt they bent. There really isn't a level area in that parking lot. I'd have to back it down into a two-way road.

I'm going to start on it relatively soon this morning.

blacktransam

iTrader: (13)

mine did the same thing right after the ac died. The clutch on the compressor was locking up. Cut that belt off and see if that solves the problem. That clanking was prob the ac compressor trying to engage

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

Oh, I like that solution! Not as much as if I had found it before I tore off the valvecovers, but I like it none the less Can I disable the A/C easier by pulling a fuse/relay, or by disconnecting the sensor on the compressor, or by removing/cutting the belt?

If that is the case, what was the 'tink' sounds I was hearing?

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

I put the top-end back together...

- I removed the A/C belt, would try to start but die quickly
- I removed the A/C relay & fuse, same thing
- I removed the accessory belt, same thing

The engine sounds like something has a warbling squeaking-type sound. I can give it gas to keep it alive, but it won't stay alive long enough to visit the engine bay. Removing the relay/fuse would be equivalent to removing the sensor on the compressor, right? Other than disconnecting that sensor, I don't know where to go from here.

chino_man279

iTrader: (7)

When you took the valvcovers off, did everything look okay? If you have double valve springs it may be a bit harder to tell at first that you have a broken spring.

How big of an incline are we talking about? You could always block the front wheels and jack up the back and place some jackstands to make the car level. You could then check the oil. It is really starting to sound like an internal problem, so I would definately check the oil and go from there. It may also be a good idea if you get the car jacked up level to pull the drain plug just to check for metal on the magnet. If there is, then I would not be attempting to even start it anymore and get it towed/pushed home.

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

All the valvesprings and rockers looked OK on both sides. They are 918's.

It is effectively home. There is a visitors parking lot in front of our office. It takes me all of 45 seconds to walk to my front door from the car.

My angle meter says it's parked on a ~4* incline.

chino_man279

iTrader: (7)

If it is only on a 4 degree incline and your oil is below the low mark, I would definately say it is low on oil. My driveway is at more than a 4 degree incline and I do not even take it into consideration when checking the oil. Add some oil to it and see how it reacts. If it was squeking due to the low oil though, there is already damage in the motor.

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

I re-checked the oil level just now. It was still about 1/4" below the hash. I added two full quarts, and now it's at the top of the hash marks. Still on the incline.

Once, a couple of years ago, I had noticed that oil wasn't even registering on the dipstick. I drove it to the store to get oil, and even had someone come check the stick to insure I waxn't hallucinating. He couldn't see it either. I don't recall how much I added, but I guess my point is even when it wasn't showing on the stick on level ground there was enough for basic operation of the car.

chino_man279

iTrader: (7)

I don't know how it would make the engine not want to run, but did you check the crank pulley? Make sure it is not starting to come off. This could make the sound you are describing, but probably not when you took the belts off. I am running out of ideas on the problem. Maybe someone else could get in here and help out. Do you have a fuel pressure guage you could put on it?

Racehead

If it won't even run then oil level has nothing to do with it unless the oil level was so low that you took out a bearing, and if that's the case then it's too late now anyway. It sounds like an internal problem to me. Low oil level will NOT affect how it runs, even after the low oil level light comes on unless internal damage has occurred.

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

No fuel gauge. I had someone else just recommend to check the crank pulley bolt as well. The crank pulley itself does look inline with the rest of the pulleys, btw.

chino_man279

iTrader: (7)

This is why the oil level is important. I suspect that a bearing has been toasted, but the idea is to eliminate the cheaper/easier things to fix first.

I would definately be checking the drain plug next for metallic particles on the magnet. This will definately point you to internal engine problems as I suspect is the case after checking everything else.

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

Couldn't find a large enough socket to check the crank pulley. However, a friend just stopped over and confirmed it's internal - possibly a main bearing.

Anyone selling a good shortblock cheap?

chino_man279

iTrader: (7)

For sale section has an LS6 short block going right now for $1700....it is in GA so you could pick it up or shipping would be cheap.

Good luck on the rebuild. I am rebuilding with a AP Engineering iron block right now.....

Racehead

Just for our own information what did you have the oil level at before you went x-ing ?