SAM98WS6

I didnt think these 4" LS1 strokers required any block clearancing but my Callies kit required it for the rod bolts and also the #8 piston for the reluctor wheel. $9.99 die grinder from Harbor Freight. Unexpected work/disassembly. Shortblock is done finally though.

Callies 4" forged stroker crank
Callies Pro-I beam LS1 rods
ARP 12 pt bolts
Diamond pistons 11504
Diamond rings
Federal Mogul race bearings

I'll do a complete post about all the issues when Im done. My advice..buy a shortblock from AP Engineering or Keith Kraft.

SAM98WS6

Ok I this is starting to suck. Callies says not all blocks require clearancing...coughBullshitcough...Diamond says there was a piston notched for #8...just f*$ckin great.
Why couldnt either of those two companies throw a note in the box or mention it when we called them before assembly? Also put a piston on backwards and dug out the spriral locks...reused them not even thinking about it...they say no...do you think that could have been mentioned too?

chino_man279

iTrader: (7)

It seems as though the manufacturer could notify you of these simple things when they know what you are doing...if you told them.... It is just extra labor that is unjustified because they could not tell you or print a letter for your order. After dropping big money on a buildup you would think that all the R&D has been done for you and you could just piece things together like a puzzle...just isn't the case. How exactly could some blocks not need to be clearanced? If it is that close of a call, I would think all blocks would require some sort of clearancing and they should at least state this. Just my opinion.

SAM98WS6

my block wasnt even close. needed at least .100 notched out.

Bear

iTrader: (1)

I know that mine had to be clearenced also. It was hitting the the #8 piston as well. It was no biggie to fix, but I hear ya on the whole It would be nice to know this upfront routine. So far I am happy with my setup. Good Luck on yours. Bear

FEAR THE LS1

iTrader: (1)

Damn.. thats messed up.

I give you credit for putting your rotating assembly together. I prefer to let a sponsor do it. If something need machining or balancing they handle it and if something don't come out right after they fix it. They also have a little more pull with a manufacturer because they are the customer to them etc.

Good luck man, it sounds like its gunna be a bad *** motor when your done.

Lee

Stu'sWS6

iTrader: (3)

The notching of the #8 piston is common in a stroker ls1. Making horsepower is never cheap, there always seems to be those nickels and dimes that fly out of your pocket for unexpected expenses. A good rule of thumb that I have learned to accept-especially with 4th gens----Expect the unexpected Good luck, it'll all be worthwhile once your done

Chicago Crew UnderBoss

iTrader: (1)

No flame to your new set up bit i think CALLIES should stick with JOHN FORCE and stay out of the LS1 world. OK, i guess i am lil bitter after my brand new CALLIES 4.125 CRANK's reluctor wheel broke after only 3000 miles!!!

Spinmonster

I have a need to do a build-up on a shortblock from a hobbyist point of view and just to learn. I am not using a C5R block of course. I already have a forged motor that runs great. I just want to tinker. I like to see posts like these and applaud the project. As for the mistakes, it is simply the learning curve. After you are done and it works great, you will never fear it again. You will probably not have the same errors in future projects. Keep us posted.

SAM98WS6

Sure enough the notched piston from diamond was in #4. A little note would have been nice since you can barely see it. Callies says it shouldnt effect the balance at all. Waiting for the dam backordered Comp R lifters now to do the longblock. Found a spiral lock removal tool on the net too...a little late. Anyone know where it says not to reuse those things? they werent heat cycled and snapped back in okay.

SAM98WS6

Here is where Im at. Let me know your thoughts...I'll keep adding as I progress.

1998 LS1 Block 60k miles
Hone Bore size to 3.9055
Hot tank
Deck block
Check Line bore
Chased all threads except 2.0mm pitch ones..couldnt find tap anywhere.
Rob bearing clearance .0025
Main Bearing Clearance .0024
Crankshaft endplay .0055
Rod side to side .015
Top Ring gap .018
Second ring gap .016
Notched Block for Rod bolt clearance
notched #8 piston for reluctor wheel clearance
ARP Main studs w/moly 60lbs inner, 50lbs outer, 19lbs side
Opened holes up on windage tray for studs

SAM98WS6

Just to give a little background. Put a heads/cam in my car that made 413rwhp/119mphQM in another car...mine makes 390rwhp. Over 10k miles I go to the track I run 116mph...redyno at 378rwhp...run 112mph next time...run 108mph final time..Had other issues such as RAM clutch also...do a compression test all is fine....do a leakdown and 3 cylinders are 25% while others are 5%.

Decide to do a stroker rebuild. Call around and talk to alot of vendors here...some were out too long 6-8wks, some wanted 100% $$ up front (YEA RIGHT), others just werent customer friendly. Then I look for 4.120 sleeved blocks in case my block didnt clean up...after some research I would go with Steve from Race Engineering or ARE as an alternate. Luckily my block cleaned up. I couldnt trust anyone to put it together right and my buddy says he would check it anyhow if it was his so we decide to buy all the parts and do it in the garage. Local shop had connections and got the Callies kit in 2 weeks...they are hard to come buy. 3.905 bore/4.000 stroke 383. DL Auto in state college PA are good guys and they did the machinework...their first LS1.

Decide not to reuse my ARE heads and go with Rapid. Kooks 1 7/8 stainless long tubes (they dont even include bolts or gaskets, cheap bastards), LSX 90mm, Cometic Head Gasket .043, etc... Waiting for the R lifters and 1.75 Comp rockers to come in now so I can degree the cam and finish the longblock. BMR and HAL pieces up front.

Let me just say this will exceed the longblock purchase price by far so I didnt do this to save money...its more of a learning experience...have at least 24 hours total in it so far not including pulling the motor in my garage. I would buy from Keith Kraft and AP Engineering after talking to a bunch of companies. I am very impressed at how Callies and Diamond answer tech questions and even more impressed on how AP Engineering chimes in to help out in these type threads even when they dont have the job. Only major issues Ive had are Callies says core shift in the blocks causes some blocks to need notched and Diamond not marking #8 piston CLEARLY. Hope this helps some of you guys out. Get a buddy thats done motors before...experience is invaluable.

TeeKay

I'm building something very close to you. I wonder if you found the little burr in the Diamond oil ring groove (their machining process apparently) that can sometimes cause a sticking oil ring? It's pretty hard to see, especially if you aren't expecting it. My machine shop guy warned me (thanks!). My set had it on 3 slugs, so I buffed them all just for luck.

Good luck on your build.

-Joseph-

iTrader: (12)

Good info, I just had to notch a #8 Lunati (JE) piston in a 383ci engine using a Callies Crank, not one of the pistons had a notch for the reluctor wheel like the Diamond Pistons I have used before. BTW you can barely tell if it will hit the reluctor wheel sometimes, I rock the piston back and forth at BDC and you will be able to see the rub marks from the reluctor wheel. If you didn't know about the interference when assembling an engine, you'd find out pretty quick when it starts up.

BTW the new Callies cranks are much nicer quality than the first couple we have used when they were first released.

SAM98WS6

Yeah, we found the same problem with the oil ring..only on one.
I guess we should try rocking the piston at BDC. thanks

SAM98WS6

FYI Tim at comp cams says adjust the 1.75 Comp Cams Pro Magnum Rockers with .008-.010" preload with the 875-16 R lifters. Starting on the longblock today.
Cometic Head gasket .043"
Rapid Stage 2 5.7 heads
1.75 Pro Mags
875-16 R lifters
BIG cam.

jfm

iTrader: (4)

Good luck on your build up,sounds like you are paying your dues.