oil gurus'
10-06-2011, 04:13 PM
#1
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oil gurus' hey guys, just had my engine rebuilt, scat 383 stroker manley pistons and rings, new block, heads, cam, high flow oil pump etc. running @ 9.15 compression turbo with 14lbs of boost. looking to do 6500 rpm shifts when racing. for the initial break in and on up to my second change (1000 miles total on the setup so far) ive been using a rotella 15w40. yes i know its diesel oil and its a high viscosity but its cleaning detergents seem to work well on the break in and i have really good flow still. the question is: i know gm's dexos 1 is made for their new blocks and FI cars and as a substitute mobile 1 synthetic. are there any draw backs of using a synthetic on our blocks with this setup? what was the factory oil the ls1 came with? not looking for the here say of ooh synthetics are always better cause i know hey arent. i'm pretty set on using the mobile 1 5w30 synth from my own research i guess i'm looking for some good informed feedback on what you've all seen
10-06-2011, 08:00 PM
#2
what was the factory oil the ls1 came with? not looking for the here say of ooh synthetics are always better cause i know hey arent. i'm pretty set on using the mobile 1 5w30 synth from my own research i guess i'm looking for some good informed feedback on what you've all seen
10-06-2011, 10:09 PM
#3
You've done the right thing.....diesel oils have great break-in characteristics
Although you're not looking to save a flat tappet cam, the rings will seat to
the new hone finish much better this way. Then you can switch to the Mobil
5W30. Vettes came frome GM with it because the rings were pre-seated by
a robot and special assembly lubes.
Although you're not looking to save a flat tappet cam, the rings will seat to
the new hone finish much better this way. Then you can switch to the Mobil
5W30. Vettes came frome GM with it because the rings were pre-seated by
a robot and special assembly lubes.
10-07-2011, 06:35 AM
#5
This is the right viscosity for OEM LS engines using OEM main bearing clearances. Some engine builders use non-OEM main bearing clearances (larger) in modified engines. You may want to ask your builder about the main bearing clearances in your engine as compared with stock. Larger clearances warrant higher viscosity oils.
10-07-2011, 11:25 AM
#7
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I just had a shortblock built with main clearances at .0019 using coated bearings. I will probably run some VR1, mixing 5w30 and 20w50 to make for about 12w40 or so.
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10-15-2011, 08:04 AM
#9
The best oil I've found is German Castrol. It'll say "Made in Germany" on the back, is 0W-30 and is normally stocked at Pep Boys and Auto Zone.
It tests closer to a 10W-40. It has the highest breakdown temperature on the market.
It's highly regarded on http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...2334699&page=1
It tests closer to a 10W-40. It has the highest breakdown temperature on the market.
It's highly regarded on http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...2334699&page=1
Last edited by Paul Bell; 10-15-2011 at 08:13 AM.
10-15-2011, 08:13 AM
#10
Don't forget the importance of a "proper" oil filter. K&N and Mobil One Extended are some of the best off the shelf filters on the market. Carquest/Wix, Hastings and Bosch are OK. Stay away from Fram, Purolator, STP, Champion, Penzoil, store brands etc.
And stay away from Fram filters.
And stay away from Fram filters.
10-15-2011, 03:08 PM
#11
Check this out.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...2088643&page=1
Most guys who know lots about oil filters will agree that Purolator is a very good filter for the money.
10-15-2011, 08:38 PM
#13
The inexpensive filters I said to avoid are traditionally poorly built with crappy filtering media and lousy valves. While there may be some exceptions in these brands, the better filters are just as common and easy to find as the cheep ones so there's no reason not to reach for the better one.
I can't reiterate it enough: Stay away from Fram oil filters.
I can't reiterate it enough: Stay away from Fram oil filters.
10-15-2011, 09:24 PM
#14
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A while back on this forum there was a poster who swore that "Wal-Mart" filters were better than Fram and STP and Purolator.............of course they're not made by Wal-Mart ,,,,,,,,,,,any info about this claim ??????
10-15-2011, 10:02 PM
#15
The ONLY Fram oil filter I'd use is the Extended Gaurd (XG series). It's actually a very nice filter based on the info seen on BITOG.
10-16-2011, 05:27 AM
#16
I woood stay away from ANY ecore design oil filter. They are easy to pick out, just look inside the filter and if you see what looks like a black plastic cage surrounding the filter media its a ecore.
I buy Purolator filters by the case from Pepboys. I use what they call their proline filter. Its a high quailty filter but only 2.50 each by the case and its NOT ecore<FARKING JUNK!
I buy Purolator filters by the case from Pepboys. I use what they call their proline filter. Its a high quailty filter but only 2.50 each by the case and its NOT ecore<FARKING JUNK!
10-16-2011, 09:42 AM
#17
It never ceases to amaze me how many people who normally wouldn't think of spending money on parts like wheels, brakes or engine parts will cheep out and get a $2.50 POS oil filter rather than a well built high performance oil filter that's $12.00 (or less on sale).
The good filters are well ahead of the cheep ones.
I NEVER call anybody names here on LS1tech but guys using **** oil filters and saving five or six bucks ARE IDIOTS.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfj9KUv0pKY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_mQcIyteQk
The good filters are well ahead of the cheep ones.
I NEVER call anybody names here on LS1tech but guys using **** oil filters and saving five or six bucks ARE IDIOTS.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfj9KUv0pKY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_mQcIyteQk
Last edited by Paul Bell; 10-16-2011 at 10:56 AM.
10-16-2011, 10:54 AM
#18
This is THE BEST filter you can have on a LS1 engine:
http://www.amazon.com/Cummins-Filtration-Fleetguard-Filter-LF16104/dp/B001JPF5Y6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1318779748&sr=8-3
It's a truck filter and is longer than a standard filter. It does stick out under the oil pan about a half inch. Even when I was slammed, I never hit the filter despite NYC's **** streets.
If you want a standard height filter:
http://www.finditparts.com/products/...etguard-lf3945
Both these filters have upgraded filter media.
A little research and education will take you a long way.
http://www.amazon.com/Cummins-Filtration-Fleetguard-Filter-LF16104/dp/B001JPF5Y6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1318779748&sr=8-3
It's a truck filter and is longer than a standard filter. It does stick out under the oil pan about a half inch. Even when I was slammed, I never hit the filter despite NYC's **** streets.
If you want a standard height filter:
http://www.finditparts.com/products/...etguard-lf3945
Both these filters have upgraded filter media.
A little research and education will take you a long way.
10-16-2011, 12:05 PM
#19
This is THE BEST filter you can have on a LS1 engine:
http://www.amazon.com/Cummins-Filtration-Fleetguard-Filter-LF16104/dp/B001JPF5Y6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1318779748&sr=8-3
It's a truck filter and is longer than a standard filter. It does stick out under the oil pan about a half inch. Even when I was slammed, I never hit the filter despite NYC's **** streets.
http://www.amazon.com/Cummins-Filtration-Fleetguard-Filter-LF16104/dp/B001JPF5Y6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1318779748&sr=8-3
It's a truck filter and is longer than a standard filter. It does stick out under the oil pan about a half inch. Even when I was slammed, I never hit the filter despite NYC's **** streets.
BTW ... the Extra Guard and Extended Guard (XG) are not the same filter. If Fram made all their filters like the XG then they'd probably have a much better reputation. I'm not a Fram fan or an Ecore fan either.
