Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

This is for the stock LQ4 in my 01 Silverado. I'll be replacing the lifters with stock LS7 replacements because of a lifter knock.

Which head gaskets would I be better off with? Fel-Pro or stock GM? Does anyone have the part numbers for GM gaskets? Also, I was going to use the Fel-Pro stock replacement head bolts, would I be wrong in picking these?

And finally, I want to get confirmation on the rocker adjustment method. This is not the first time I've adjusted rockers, but it is the first time on an LS engine. I read that the procedure is to find zero lash, then simply torque the bolt to 22 ft-lb to set preload. Is this correct? I'll be reusing all the stock valvetrain aside from the new lifters.

Is there anything else I should take care of as far as maintenance while I'm tearing into the engine? This is not performance oriented, it's my DD and will remain stock. Thanks in advance.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

I prefer the GM gaskets over the Fel Pro as there have been a few leaks with the Fel Pro's reported. Personally, I would stick with the GM bolts as well.

As for the rocker procedure, follow the GM procedure. I have posted the service manual pages in the past but the web service I was using went away so a search will only turn up a blank photo. I now have it in my photobucket account but can't access it from here. If you still need it shoot me a PM and I will post it later tonight unless someone else posts it as I know there are several who have copied the image.

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for reminding me, I completely forgot I have the GM manuals. The GM procedure is to just torque the bolt to 22 ft-lb, no need to find zero lash.

Do you happen to have part numbers for the GM gaskets and head bolt kits? I guess I can't go wrong with GM parts. Thanks for the input.

JPH

iTrader: (2)

I would use OEM gaskets, OEM lifters and ARP head bolts imo.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

OP try this... (GM Service Manuel)..

6. Rotate the crankshaft until the number one piston is at top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke. In this position,
cylinder number one rocker arms will be off lobe lift, and the crankshaft sprocket key will be at the 1:30 position. The engine
firing order is 1,8,7,2,6,5,4,3. Cylinders 1,3,5, and 7 are left bank. Cylinders 2,4,6, and 8 are right bank. Notice: Refer to
Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
7. With the engine in the number one firing position, tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts:
 Tighten the exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 1,2,7, and 8 to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.).
 Tighten the intake valve rocker arm bolts 1,3,4, and 5 to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.).
8. Rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees .
9. Tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts:
 Tighten the exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 3,4,5, and 6 to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.).
 Tighten the intake valve rocker arm bolts 2,6,7, and 8 to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.).
10. Install

VandykeT/A

Not sure about a LQ4 but with the LS1s you can buy a GM gasket kit (bolts included) for less than what autozone or advance wanted for the Fel Pro stuff from a sponsor. After I put my trunions in my rockers I just put them all back on and torqued to 22ft lbs. That wouldn't have hurt anything would it ?

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

You will need different length pushrods bc ls7 lifters are different length and have different preload spec...on the head gaskets I would go with the GM mls head gaskets they sell on Texas-speed

parks450

iTrader: (17)

Get ARP bolts if you think you will tear into this again. Their $100, by the time you buy stock bolts this time and next time if you do you would be close to the $100 mark. Go with gm mls gaskets all the way. Vengeance racing has all that stuff at awesome prices.

As for rocker adjustment theirs a routine thay needs to be followed. Search rocker adjustment and youll find it, id do it for you but im on my cell. But do not just slap them on there and torque those down.

parks450

iTrader: (17)

Oop sombitch got it in the above post, follow that and your golden

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

I have the whole procedure, I just didn't post all the steps. I was just commenting on the lack of a need to find zero lash. I plan on using the EO/IC method.

I have a measuring tool already, and I planned on measuring. But without changing anything besides the lifters, I'm hoping to not have any issues. My brother also linked me the GM gaskets from TSP, so I'll get them there.

Where did you find them for $100? I see 134-3609 is around $150 at most places. Are the LS1 and earlier LQ4 head bolts the same?

Thanks again for the help so far.

trans_am7935

iTrader: (15)

head bolts on the early gen III engines up to 2003 use a long bolt short bolt setup, i believe in 2004 they changed these to all short bolt style. i know all LS2 motors have the short bolt style.

also also you should change your lifter trays (if you feel like it) to ensure lifter stability. use the LS2 style ones, slightly stronger and i got them cheaper then LS1 lifters.

call Texas Speed and they will set you up. talk to Jason (the boss) or Matt and they will give you a good deal.

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

Just an alternative to SOMbitch's post for rocker tightening.

As a SBC fan, I was used to aligning the dots (for #1) and then setting each cylinder in turn to TDC & torqueing.
I realized later after aligning the dots on the LS1, that TDC for #1 doesn't work the same way.
Anyhow, I prefer the idea of having each valve for each cylinder @ TDC before doing the torqueing. Seems to me that the torque figure would be more accurate with valves closed.
Anyhow, here's some info from JOSEPH, who helped me out....


Re: "when torqueing the rockers"

I'm glad you found my info helpful, not many people know the valve events for all 8 cylinders and when they happen. You would naturally assume with the dots aligned it would be the firing position of cylinder #1, when its actually the start of the intake stroke as far as the piston/intake valve is concerned. With the dots aligned cylinder #6 is the one to set preload/lash/ or for installing rockers.

Each 90* (720* / 8cyl = 90*) on the crankshaft gear is another cylinder firing, while each 45* (360* / 8cyl = 45*) on the camshaft gear is another cylinder firing. Having the timing cover off helps to watch the sequence.

Here's a copy/paste of a manuscript I'm working on that may help also:


Quote:
Originally Posted by Joseph
LSX Firing Order 1, 8, 7, 2, 6, 5, 4, 3

TDC Cyl. #1) Camshaft dot at 12:00 / Crankshaft dot at 12:00
TDC Cyl. #8) Camshaft dot at 1:30 / Crankshaft dot at 3:00
TDC Cyl. #7) Camshaft dot at 3:00 / Crankshaft dot at 6:00
TDC Cyl. #2) Camshaft dot at 4:30 / Crankshaft dot at 9:00
TDC Cyl. #6) Camshaft dot at 6:00 / Crankshaft dot at 12:00
TDC Cyl. #5) Camshaft dot at 7:30 / Crankshaft dot at 3:00
TDC Cyl. #4) Camshaft dot at 9:00 / Crankshaft dot at 6:00
TDC Cyl. #3) Camshaft dot at 10:30 / Crankshaft dot at 9:00

If you have that and the timing cover off you don't even have to measure how far you turned the engine over, just line up the dots to the correct orientation and install.

Thanks,
Joseph

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

WS6 Store had better prices, so I just ordered everything from there. I went with the GM MLS gaskets and GM replacement bolts. They were $55 for both heads.

I'll try to remember and update this with my results, thanks for all the input.