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1999 Z/28 Terrible Engine Noise! Please Help

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Old 01-28-2012, 09:00 PM
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Default 1999 Z/28 Terrible Engine Noise! Please Help

So let me start this wonderful story for you guys. I'm going to make it brief just for times sake. My buddy crashed my car going about 30+mph into a construction zone. There was over 12k in damage done to the vehicle. It needed a new rack and pinion, pump, pulley, whole car got repainted (huge bucks), exhaust adjustment (new hangers and mounts), headlight brackets and some miscellaneous things including body panels and undercarriage plastic pieces. Prior to the accident the car got brand new ls1 ported and polished heads including internals. They only had about 5k miles on them prior to the crash.

Three days after I pick up the car from the shop (bear in mind I put less than 200 miles on the car), it started making a ticking sound out of nowhere. I pulled the car over and it was short almost 2 quarts of oil. There was no signs of ANY leak, throughout the three months in the shop and at my house. Besides that, I filled the car back up on oil and drove it back home. The ticking then developed into a nasty sound. The timing chain was a little lose said my mechanic and the heads where getting plenty of oil upon inspection. The car makes normal oil pressure and there is no check engine like, misfire or burning of oil. Three mechanics are sure its coming from the bottom end. What do you think it is? And, what are my options? I am looking to spend $4,500 no more to have this car fixed ( I live in CT). Can anyone please help?

Video related!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CYjcrpWc2II

The motor has:
ls6 intake
Ported and Polish Heads with aftermarket internals
36lb injectors
New mls gM head gasket
Comp cam push rods
Ported throttle body
Stock cam
aluminum flywheel
slp intake hood
Kooks stainless headers
Old 01-28-2012, 09:58 PM
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Check your spark plugs...make sure they are all in there nice and tight. mine sounded like that when i blew out a spark plug right after a header change

also if you have a few tools, then pull the valve covers and inspect pushrods and rockers
Old 01-28-2012, 10:01 PM
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you should be able to isolate which cylinder your noise is coming from by canceling cylinders to see if the noise changes. you can do this with a scan tool, or by unplugging and injector or pulling a plug wire off while the car is running...dont use your bare hands though...when you make a difference in the sound its in that cylinder. if you never make any difference then its probably the timing chain. or a cracked fly wheel. that noise sounded like it was too high pitched to be a rod bearing but that could just be the speakers on my pc. either way once you figure out wich cylinder it is you can inspect it from there. good luck.
Old 01-28-2012, 10:15 PM
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That's knocking. For less 4500 you could get a complete ls1. Other than that there is really no other way around it. Look at what codes it is throwing if the check engine light is on, pm it to me and i will tell you exactly how to fix it ( i have access to alldatapro). a loose timing chain basically equals a screwed up motor. Dont go to Mechanics because they are going to put you aside because it's a long process and they are going to try to rip you off. Just get a engine puller and do it yourself but have about 4-5 buddies that know a little on what to do if something ***** up. It also sounds like there is a huge vacuum leak.
Old 01-28-2012, 10:16 PM
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If you want to know if the motors hurt or not take the oil filter off the car find a shop around you that has a filter cutting tool and cut the filter open. The cutting tools are like $40 through speedway motors. For now if it's a bearing pull a plug wire off and start the car and try each 1 by 1. If the motor gets quiet its a bearing from pressure off the bearing
Old 01-28-2012, 10:18 PM
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wonder if your oil pan got dented and the rod cap is hitting the pan
Old 01-28-2012, 10:28 PM
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Thanks for the replys. There is no check engine light, even if you let the car run at idle or when it was driven. I don't believe there is any vacuum leak, its just the audio that makes it sound like one. My mechanic does not believe the timing chain is making the sound and there was no dent or crack in the oil pan. The bottom of the car is dirt and dent free.
Old 01-28-2012, 10:32 PM
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after listening to the video... kinda has me wondering if a lifter collapsed...
Old 01-28-2012, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by trans_am7935
Check your spark plugs...make sure they are all in there nice and tight. mine sounded like that when i blew out a spark plug right after a header change

also if you have a few tools, then pull the valve covers and inspect pushrods and rockers
All plugs are secured. Just checked
Old 01-28-2012, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by SVTconfused
wonder if your oil pan got dented and the rod cap is hitting the pan
LS oil pans are made of Alunimum, they don't dent, they break.

take another video and hold the throttle down at aprox 2000 rpm and see if the noise goes away. it seemed like it wanted to. if it goes away this could indicate a bent pushrod or a failing lifter. when you say it has had internal work, what are you refering to? new pistons, new block, new rods?
Old 01-28-2012, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by trans_am7935
LS oil pans are made of Alunimum, they don't dent, they break.

take another video and hold the throttle down at aprox 2000 rpm and see if the noise goes away. it seemed like it wanted to. if it goes away this could indicate a bent pushrod or a failing lifter. when you say it has had internal work, what are you refering to? new pistons, new block, new rods?
I am uploading another video right now but the sound only progressively gets louder. There was no internal work, I was referring to new stock valves, gm blue springs and stock valve train.
Old 01-28-2012, 10:53 PM
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IsFjtY_gSp0
Old 01-28-2012, 11:07 PM
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What options would be the best choice in fixing this problem? I don't want a used motor or used short block. Is there anyway to get a stock ls1 new or reman short block for under $3,000? Or is there another route I can take? And prices for alternatives would be great.
Old 01-28-2012, 11:18 PM
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before you spring for another short block you really need to pull the valve covers. it really isnt that hard at all, it takes a 10mm deep socket and ratchet, and an 8mm socket.
Old 01-28-2012, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by trans_am7935
before you spring for another short block you really need to pull the valve covers. it really isnt that hard at all, it takes a 10mm deep socket and ratchet, and an 8mm socket.
Valve covers were pulled. There was oil coming up through each push rod and the valve train was snug and showed no evidence of a loose or damaged rocker.
Old 01-29-2012, 03:10 AM
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I'm no master mechanic but that almost sounds like a kink in the timing chain or your mechanic dropped a bolt down in it and left it. God luck with it.
Old 01-29-2012, 05:46 AM
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remove rocker arms and take out the pushrods and roll them on a flat surface to see if they are straight. That is the first thing I would do. You have to isolate the noise.
Old 01-29-2012, 07:10 AM
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Man, I thought my car was a money pit. Sounds like a rod knocking to me. A rod knocking will kind of fade in and out with light throttle like you were doing. About 98% sure thats what it is.
Old 01-29-2012, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by trans_am7935
LS oil pans are made of Alunimum, they don't dent, they break.

take another video and hold the throttle down at aprox 2000 rpm and see if the noise goes away. it seemed like it wanted to. if it goes away this could indicate a bent pushrod or a failing lifter. when you say it has had internal work, what are you refering to? new pistons, new block, new rods?

learn something new every day... im use to seeing a steel pan in lightnings...LOL
Old 01-29-2012, 09:15 AM
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...rod knock...sorry man. try and isolate each cylinder first. and i would pull pushrods just to double check.


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