Which rotating assembly for LS1 383?
#1
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Which rotating assembly for LS1 383?
Building a 383 LS1. Most of the vendors are recommending the Callies Compstar kit however my engine builder contacted Callies today who stated that they are having trouble with the 24x reluctor wheels seperating on their forged cranks. So, should I upgrade to the Callies billet crank which is not having problems or see if they can weld the wheel on the forged piece or go with something different all together? Also, everyone suggests different pistons from JE's to Wiseco's and Diamonds. Any favorites? My car will probably stay NA so do you guys think I should do flat top or dish pistons and what should I shoot for compression wise? I am running ported 241's, milled .030 with 64cc chambers. They flow 299 Intake and 224 Exhaust at .600 lift and I bought the .058 GM head gaskets and ARP head bolts. Thanks in advance!
#2
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Can't say anything about the crank since I didn't want to go that route, but for pistons I would recommend anything with an anodized hard coating as well as valve reliefs so that you can run high-lift camshafts with a variety of cylinder heads. If you go dished pistons with your current heads/gaskets, you'll have problems with static and dynamic compression without some sort of power adder. Nothing too serious, just not optimal power for the cubes... The motor will feel/perform sluggish.
As for the connecting rods, try and find some strong lightweight I-beams if you are not going to be going n2o or FI.
As for the connecting rods, try and find some strong lightweight I-beams if you are not going to be going n2o or FI.
#3
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i am running a 383 build from a 5.3 LM7 engine
i used
mahle pistons 11.5:1
rpm 4" stroker crank
rpm rods h-beamengine build
799 heads screaming at close to 300 cfm
close to a 620 lift cam as well
n/a
great pricing
i know everyone is in business to make $$$$$$$
but with the average stroker kit going for over 2300 plush tax and shipping
i went this route and saved almost a grand by the time it was all said and done
yes i had to balance the assembly myself, no big deal since i have access to a machine shop
other companies are just as good and i am not knocking them, this is just me doing some research and doing it on a budget
tring to keep the entire build around $4K
so far so good.............
i used
mahle pistons 11.5:1
rpm 4" stroker crank
rpm rods h-beamengine build
799 heads screaming at close to 300 cfm
close to a 620 lift cam as well
n/a
great pricing
i know everyone is in business to make $$$$$$$
but with the average stroker kit going for over 2300 plush tax and shipping
i went this route and saved almost a grand by the time it was all said and done
yes i had to balance the assembly myself, no big deal since i have access to a machine shop
other companies are just as good and i am not knocking them, this is just me doing some research and doing it on a budget
tring to keep the entire build around $4K
so far so good.............
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#8
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Do you all think that it is worth building the 383 over the forged 346? I think by the time it is all said and done I will be within $2000 either way. Will I pick up enough usable power to make it worth it?
#9
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If you're comparing a forged 3.622" crankshaft vs a forged 4" crankshaft, I can't imagine the price is any different. go for the extra cubes for sure. it will move your torque curve up and to the left in a big way.
#10
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With the only difference between a 346/347 and a 383 being the change of stroke, the power difference is roughly 40 lbs. ft. of torque more with the 383. Reliability-wise, you should expect less in the long term with a 383 due to the rotating assembly geometry with the longer stroke. If you are going with a power adder and want more reliability, stick with a 346/347. NA, go with a 383 just for the power.
#13
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-any-pics.html
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