Torquing head bolts and coolant
02-12-2012, 12:39 PM
#1
Torquing head bolts and coolant I had my heads off for cleaning and valve springs replacement cause I' going with a cam and I blew block holes/threats with air but it seems that there is still a Little coolant on the last hole in the bottom of each side would a little bit of coolant hurt the engine or do I have to make sure that there's no coolant in the holes period???
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tonyreyes (11-20-2021)
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SAPPER (11-21-2021)
02-12-2012, 02:47 PM
#7
check these forums, there are numerous posts about people that have cracked their blocks because of tiny amounts of coolant in the bolt holes. there is a reason why all of the how to's stress so much the importance of cleaning the holes out and making sure they are perfectly dry, as soon as you start torquing the bolt, pop. it is because the water doesnt compress and builds up pressure from the bolt pushing in on it. the pressure has no where to go so it cracks the block.
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02-12-2012, 03:08 PM
#8
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check these forums, there are numerous posts about people that have cracked their blocks because of tiny amounts of coolant in the bolt holes. there is a reason why all of the how to's stress so much the importance of cleaning the holes out and making sure they are perfectly dry, as soon as you start torquing the bolt, pop. it is because the water doesnt compress and builds up pressure from the bolt pushing in on it. the pressure has no where to go so it cracks the block.
11-20-2021, 01:14 PM
#10
I mest up? I had colant in my block and screws in the bolt and heard pop and a little bit of coopant seaped out what does that mean
11-20-2021, 01:41 PM
#11
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Age old thread but basically what that means is that your block is toast and you should give it to me...
On a serious note though it is really important to clear the holes of any coolant so used compressed air and chase the threads until they're clean otherwise you risk cracking the block once you run it.
On a serious note though it is really important to clear the holes of any coolant so used compressed air and chase the threads until they're clean otherwise you risk cracking the block once you run it.
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99 Black Bird T/A (11-23-2021)
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11-20-2021, 04:43 PM
#14
TECH Enthusiast
I made an attachment to my air-blow gun that is an 18" long piece of 1/4" copper tubing (long and reasonably flexible, to get into tight spots if necessary), and I stick that down the holes to blow out any contaminants.
Been working good for years.
Been working good for years.
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G Atsma (11-20-2021)
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G Atsma (11-20-2021)
11-21-2021, 01:59 PM
#17
OK, I used to do this almost every day at work (GM Tech) The best thing to use is a Harbor Freight Brake bleeder. Hook it up to air and cleans out the cylinder, bolt holes, whatever. Tip: Cut the hose inside the canister halfway off.
I use this to suck out coolant out of bolt holes, off the pistons, etc.
Then take an old head bolt, cut 2 lines up the threads with a cutoff wheel and you have a cheap thread chaser. Blow it out and your set.
https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...der-92924.html
And BTW, if you heard a POP. you cracked the block.
I use this to suck out coolant out of bolt holes, off the pistons, etc.
Then take an old head bolt, cut 2 lines up the threads with a cutoff wheel and you have a cheap thread chaser. Blow it out and your set.
https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...der-92924.html
And BTW, if you heard a POP. you cracked the block.
Last edited by SAPPER; 11-21-2021 at 02:06 PM.
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G Atsma (11-21-2021)
11-22-2021, 01:48 PM
#19
I quarter up a paper towel sheet, roll them up with a tapered twist. Stick them in the holes for an hour each. This wicks up the oil and coolant. I do that twice, then use a blow gun to blow the crap out. Then I chase the threads with the arp tool.. Followed by a little acetone in each hole for a minute or so, then blow out again with the gun. That should get them as good as new.
