Head bolt removal?
#2
Launching!
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I dont think they break very often. I had no problems pulling my stock bolts. I would go with studs with your new heads. I feel that studs are far superior to bolts. Much easier on the threads and also you dont have to worry about cracking your block if you have a little coolant left in your block.
#4
TECH Addict
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I've noticed that the head bolts are like any other bolts...if you crank on the same one it will be more likely to break...that's why I like to "reverse torque" the headbolts by loosening them in the reverse order of the headbolt order you use to put the heads on. I also do the loosening in a couple stages which puts less stress on the bolts and makes them less likely to break. I know people that just crank them off with a 1/2 inch impact in no particular order, but I like to be safe. I usually use a junk torque wrench for the initial cracking loose of each bolt, and then I use the 3/8 impact (less torque then the 1/2 in) and loosen them in 2 stages starting from the outside and working my way in. Some of my friends say it is not needed, but I can't afford to break a bolt and cause more $/work. Also the few engines I have worked on have been aluminum LS engine blocks, which in my eye makes it even more sketchy as far as breaking a head bolt and causing the need for the use of some unsavory methods lol. If it was an iron block I wouldn't be as concerned. Also another trick I like to use if I feel a bolt getting tight when loosening, I will tighten it back into the hole a Couple turns to hopefully "unbind" the bolt. Everybody does it a lil bit different, but I hoped I at least helped out a little. By sharing my experience.
#5
TECH Senior Member
There is a GM Tech Bulletin that says you have to first hit the bolt heads with a hammer/drift to "unfreeze/unjam" the threads before attempting to loosen the bolts.