Onyx Z

iTrader: (3)

My cars pushing 100,000 miles so I figured it's about time for my motor to be refreshed. Probably just a little ole 347.

Here's the list of parts I have picked out. I can get most of these through my job (O'Reilly's).

BLOCK
Gaskets: Fel-Pro
Pistons: JE or Diamond
Rods: Manley or Scat H-Beam
Rings: ????????
Bearings: Federal Mogul
Timing Set: Cloyes Hex Adjust
Rod bolts: ARP Pro-series
Head Bolts: ARP Studs or Bolts Dunno yet?
Main Studs: ARP Studs
Lifters: Comp "R"
Cam: Speedteks F1 most likely
Oil Pump: Thunder Ported LS6

HEADS (still kind of undecided b/c I'm kind of low on money)
Heads: Stock w/ a mild porting job maybe
Valves: Stock
Springs: 918's

Any input or maybe a different suggestion is appreciated. Maybe some suggestions on the ones I'm undecided on too.

Thanks
Ryan

Cal

iTrader: (1)

With only 100,000 miles and low on money, I'd wait until I had enough money to do a big bore kit or a stoker or both. The engine probably has a good 50,000 miles left in it with good performance anyway. And don't forget to set aside some money for a good tune with that cam you're planning on.

Onyx Z

iTrader: (3)

Anyone else?

SAM98WS6

Forget the big bore...thats not low budget at all...$3000 for an iffy block.
I would buy a shortblock from AP engineering or Keith Kraft. they have good budget packages and you CANNOT do it any cheaper...trust me....Im doing an expensive stroker right now. They also sell the rotating assemblies very cheap. Eagle stroker is like $1995.
I went with cometic gaskets
With R lifters you need adjustable rockers.
good timing set and oil pump

If you were closer Id sell you cheap my freshened ARE S2 98 heads that are sitting on my bench collecting dust... all they need is springs.

Assassin

iTrader: (3)

wow, what? stage 2 heads for a 98?, how much?

SAM98WS6

I want $1000...alll they need is new springs...but I dont want to ship. Dont want to risk getting ripped off. I dont need the money. Just had a shop go over them and didnt want to buy new springs...trying out a new set of heads

Assassin

iTrader: (3)

if you take paypal all you would do is ship after you received the $$, but if you say you dont neeeed the money, you can lend them to me and I'll let you know how they work with new springs, lol

Onyx Z

iTrader: (3)

You need adjustale rockerss w/ the "R" lifters? Why?

DenzSS

You don't need adjustable rockers with Comp R lifters. They work quite well with the stock rockers. I don't really understand this rocker arm craze anyway.

Onyx Z

iTrader: (3)

I was thinking the same thing. SAM98WS6 says you need adjustable rockers, but I was pretty positve they will work with stock rockers.

SAM98WS6

Comp recommends adjustable rockers right on their website. Call them and they will tell you .008-.010 preload on R lifters with adjustable rockers is what they highly recommend. You guys do your own thing and good luck.

Onyx Z

iTrader: (3)

Oh, ok they recommend them, I thought you were saying they will not work at all. I'm just trying to do this right the first time.

SAM98WS6

tighten the rockers down until they get snug on the pushrod and then go just short of 1/4turn more...that is .008-.010. You dont want them too tight.

BBADWS6

iTrader: (8)

Build a forged 347, you will be happy with it.

horist

for your build... i'd say jsut go w/some crane lifters or something similar... no need for Comp Rs ... you can run comp Rs w/out adjustable rockers... but it's just harder to get proper preload ... I just had a bigger than 346 engine built and the shop that did it said they'd rather use non Comp Rs (which is what I had in the car) since I wasn't running adjustable lifters...

unless you're revving to high RPMs or running huge seat pressure springs (comp 977) no need for the Rs

BIGBOS

What are ya building up mike.....

horist

you got PM