Yet another LM7 build
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Yet another LM7 build
Well guys and girls winter is now behind us and santa has come and gone. I figured what better time to start tearing into my christmas present from the wife a used LM7 long block. After seeing the motor I thought what a great opportunity for a budget swap, always wanted to do one with a 5.3 base. As I thought about it this motor is like the mystery meat they served me for chow in Iraq and Afghanistan. I had no idea what it was, where it came from, or how long it was there. So with that said looks like this is going to hopefully turn into a nice build, with some guidance from the peanut gallery (you), some friends and my drive to learn. This by the way will be the first attempt at assembling a short block.
Here's some pics
Notice the left outside bolt on the #1 main cap.
Here's some pics
Notice the left outside bolt on the #1 main cap.
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Def gonna be a stock bore size and stroke. I'm going to try and keep this build as cheap as I can. As for measuring tools if I can stay away from the machine shop I will, but without knowing any info about the motor I don't think thats a good idea. So if I end up going to a machine shop for cleaning I'll try see if they can take a few measurments.
#6
I'm doin' a l59 (lm7,same difference),for a 2002 yukon xl. my mains had the same gunk in the oil passages in your last pic. Ended up going .020 over to true up the cylinders, just had to polish the crank.
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#8
65.00 to boil ,120.00 for the machinework, 40.00 to polish the crank and chamfer the oil pass. shop around for gasket and stuff, the prices vary,local purchase was double what I paid on the net,place I bought from was very reasonable, only thing I bought separately were the head bolts and lifters.
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Shopping around for bearings (rod, cam, & main) and i'm a little confused guys. There so many brands and sizes out there its got me thinking. Honestly I get a warm and fuzzy for Clevite bearings, Its what I chose to put in my LS1. I just really don't get why theres so many sizes out there. Do I stick with stock replacement sizes or is this something that comes after clearances are measured. I hope i'm making sense with this question. This is a learning experience.
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Shopping around for bearings (rod, cam, & main) and i'm a little confused guys. There so many brands and sizes out there its got me thinking. Honestly I get a warm and fuzzy for Clevite bearings, Its what I chose to put in my LS1. I just really don't get why theres so many sizes out there. Do I stick with stock replacement sizes or is this something that comes after clearances are measured. I hope i'm making sense with this question. This is a learning experience.
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65.00 to boil ,120.00 for the machinework, 40.00 to polish the crank and chamfer the oil pass. shop around for gasket and stuff, the prices vary,local purchase was double what I paid on the net,place I bought from was very reasonable, only thing I bought separately were the head bolts and lifters.
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You can get Speed-Pro flat tops for a 4.8L from Summit for $180-190 that work great in a 5.3L ,,,,,,,,,,Rockauto for rings $50-60 LS2 timing set $30 ,,,,,,,,,,Alex's parts for bearings ,,,,,King bearings rods $16 mains like $50 ,,,,,,,,,I found an Melling standard volume n pressure new oil pump at Amazon under Northern auto for $60 brand new ,,,,,,Fred beans parts brand new GM LS6 yellow valve springs for $59 ........etc
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You can get Speed-Pro flat tops for a 4.8L from Summit for $180-190 that work great in a 5.3L ,,,,,,,,,,Rockauto for rings $50-60 LS2 timing set $30 ,,,,,,,,,,Alex's parts for bearings ,,,,,King bearings rods $16 mains like $50 ,,,,,,,,,I found an Melling standard volume n pressure new oil pump at Amazon under Northern auto for $60 brand new ,,,,,,Fred beans parts brand new GM LS6 yellow valve springs for $59 ........etc
Seems to like her new bottle though.