streetknight2

iTrader: (10)

Just want to make sure my ducks are in a row. Going to pick up my LQ9 from the machine shop Friday. Not my first rodeo assembling an engine, but it is for a LS based one. Are there any do's, don'ts, or special tools that I need?

I have torque wrenches and stuff to degree the cam and check piston to valve clearance.

I had just read somewhere you needed a special tool to install the front and rear covers or their seals. Is this true?

Any help would be appreciated.

feeder82

yes there are special alignment tools for both, the rear tool is needed the most for no leaks, and a balancer install tool is needed. Dont pull the balancer on with the bolt.

usafws6

iTrader: (10)

youll need plastigauge for the bearings and a degree gauge for the headbolts and balancer bolt. buying an ls1 specific assembly book

streetknight2

iTrader: (10)

I have plasti gauge and balanced installer. What is a degree gauge for the head bolts and rear installer called?

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

Torque-angle wrench. Remember all threads are metric, make sure all your oil galleries are plugged and the "barbell" is installed...

streetknight2

iTrader: (10)

Ok, what is the "barbell"

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

Once you get a book or two (as per usafws6), you'll know. And don't even think about trying to assemble your 1st LS without one!

streetknight2

iTrader: (10)

What are some good resource choices. Or is there a must have book?

chopperman69

iTrader: (-1)

I think "How to Rebuild GM LS-SERIES ENGINES" by Chris Werner is pretty good.

joecar

I think this book is better: How to Build and Modify GM LS-Series Engines -- Joseph Potak

garygnu

what rod head bolts are you going to use ?get the book mentioned above,it is very helpful.

Wnts2Go10O

iTrader: (12)

read: http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...ild/index.html

read it again. take your time and take all necessary measurements and be methodical. now get to it.

95ONE

iTrader: (1)

"fixing" to assemble? Must be from around here. (Texas)

streetknight2

iTrader: (10)

lmao...Georgia

OK, got a book, gonna study up this weekend, machine shop didn't get finished today, so I'll have the weekend to go over a few things lol.

Thanks everyone. I'm sure I'll ask more ?'s

streetknight2

iTrader: (10)

ARP Rod and Head bolts....Stock Main bolts.

01cherryreds10

iTrader: (9)

How far apart is the engine? I suggest a pushrod length checker and a valve spring compressor. Also do yourself a favor and get the Comp LS socket to put the degree wheel on.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Comp-Cams-49...2b7040&vxp=mtr
Got mine from there and I swear it is the second best tool I have bought for my engine next to the Comp spring compressor tool.

I have an electronic Mac tools 3/8 torque wrench with built in angle meter that reads in lbs ft and lbs in. I know its not cost effective but I use it all the time

streetknight2

iTrader: (10)

It's completely apart, still at machine shop. My degree wheel has several different bushings for different crank bolts, but that comp thing looks cool. I have a valve spring compressor to put on the checker springs.

Honestly didn't think about push rod checker since Pat G told me what length to buy when he specd my cam

01cherryreds10

iTrader: (9)

Pat suggested me to use 7.425 pushrods and after measuring, found I needed 7.375. I'm not placing the blame on him one bit because every cylinder head, rocker arm, engine block, and cam lobe are different. It's a cheap tool and it's alot easier to measure all 16 then to be chasing your tail after it's all put back together trying to find what a certain noise is, why is it doing it, and what would fix it.