1,000 miles and metal fragments on dipstick
03-22-2012, 10:28 AM
#1
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1,000 miles and metal fragments on dipstick Hey all, I'm just finishing break-in and until now the oil has looked perfect. It was changed a few days ago. I just checked the level and noticed 7 or 8 sand (or smaller) sized fragments of dark gray metal on the dipstick. One thing that may be related is that until today the engine has had a mild sewing machine sound as is pretty typical for a cammed car. It has a Torquer V2 in it with 7.4 hardened push rods, PRC 5.3 stage 2.5 heads with PRC's double valve springs. It seems as though the sewing machine sound is much better today.
Is it possible that something was slightly off in the valve train and finally 'clearanced' itself, and everything is fine now, or am I in for trouble?
I cleaned the stick off and checked it again and it came up clean.
Is it possible that something was slightly off in the valve train and finally 'clearanced' itself, and everything is fine now, or am I in for trouble?
I cleaned the stick off and checked it again and it came up clean.
03-22-2012, 10:33 AM
#2
Sometimes you get stuff left over from machining which may end up in the filter, dipstick, or magnet. I would observe hot, at idle oil PSI and if your not getting any metal shaving after a final change or any glint/glitter in the oil I would run it.
IMO.
IMO.
03-22-2012, 10:55 AM
#3
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Hot idle oil pressure is about 37 lbs. She runs about 42 lbs. going down the highway. I haven't got to floor it and see what it does at full song. I don't really trust my gauges either. The car is an 89 Trans Am GTA with 256,000 miles that was converted to an LS1/4l60e. The voltage has read 8 or 9 volts since the conversion even though the battery has not shown any signs of not charging properly. Tons of cranking power every time and it has around 1,000 miles now. Don't know what it was like before the conversion because it was barely running with the L98 and wasn't driven.
03-22-2012, 12:04 PM
#5
Yea, you should be fine. On a stocker pump and cammed I run consistant 60-65 and idles in the 40's hot but again until you have a real guage on there you gotta go with what you have.
In your case I would feel ok driving it. IF your reall worried, yank the heads, check the lifters. But thats extreme.
In your case I would feel ok driving it. IF your reall worried, yank the heads, check the lifters. But thats extreme.
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03-22-2012, 06:47 PM
#9
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Had the oil changed today and it looked good for 4 day old oil. Can't find anything else but then again the shop that changed it didn't want to cut the filter open.She's running like a top. I will keep my fingers crossed. Thanks for the advice.
Last edited by prokilllsx; 03-23-2012 at 04:39 PM.
03-22-2012, 08:18 PM
#11
Why not? ... you better get that filter and cut it open yourself. Seeing what's trapped in the filter's pleats is going to tell you if anything major is happening or not.
03-23-2012, 04:39 PM
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03-23-2012, 05:24 PM
#15
03-23-2012, 05:33 PM
#16
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prokilllsx if you dont mind me asking what type of break in procedures did you go about using? I did alot of reading on hard break-ins and I'm really leaning towards that route.
03-24-2012, 07:01 AM
#17
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20 min.s changing rpm btwn 2500 and 3500, oil change, 300 miles easy on the throttle, oil change, 500 miles easy on the throttle, oil change, 200 miles easy on throttle - found metal, oil change. Everything seems perfect now but the dyno is going to tell the story here in about 4 hours.
03-24-2012, 11:42 AM
#20
20 min.s changing rpm btwn 2500 and 3500, oil change, 300 miles easy on the throttle, oil change, 500 miles easy on the throttle, oil change, 200 miles easy on throttle - found metal, oil change. Everything seems perfect now but the dyno is going to tell the story here in about 4 hours.