Knick in Oil Galley. Is this block salvagable?
03-25-2012, 07:28 AM
#1
Knick in Oil Galley. Is this block salvagable? Pulled the bottom end out of this motor last night and found that it had a rod snapped in cylinder 7. Looks like all it did is ruin the windage tray but it also smacked this oil passage. After a good Epoxy job would this be able to be run?
Motor is an 05 LM7 Iron 5.3
Motor is an 05 LM7 Iron 5.3
03-29-2012, 08:25 AM
#4
The hole goes all the way through but it doesnt look like the oil passage is sealed off. My dad is a professional welder (30+ years) and he has done multiple iron block motors. So as long as it can be done he can do it. his first guess was to try epoxy or something first cause he knows the risks of welding a cast iron block. So thats why i came to you guys
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03-29-2012, 07:53 PM
#8
Ya know? I really couldn't say with certainty... Using nickel rod "back in the day" to weld steel flanges to cast iron manifolds was the accepted way, but that was 30 years ago and methods have likely changed since then. In fact, I've done some checking and it seems MIG works pretty good, especially for a low-stress weld like an oil gallery that doesn't require machining.
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LSX_Burb (03-08-2021)
03-08-2021, 11:15 PM
#11
TECH Senior Member
OP was last here last December. He MIGHT catch this and reply.
Usually using nickel rod on cast iron holds up pretty well as it conforms very well with cast iron.
Usually using nickel rod on cast iron holds up pretty well as it conforms very well with cast iron.
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LSX_Burb (03-09-2021)
03-09-2021, 07:33 AM
#12
03-09-2021, 07:38 AM
#13
I've heard good things about Muggy Weld 77 rods with cast iron as well as nickel rods. I have a LQ4 block that has a small hole in the oil galley from a broken rod. I'm debating on having it fixed or just getting another block to build. My end goal is a 6.0 bored .065" to make it a 6.2 with forged rods and pistons to eventually run boost down the road. I'm just not sure how I feel about having the block fixed to have potential oiling issues later if something were to crack or give from the repair.
03-10-2021, 12:20 PM
#15
You'll have up to 80 ish psi pushing against epoxy trying to push it off of the rail. If you were sealing the rail from the inside with epoxy that would be a different story.
Picture how car tires are patched from the inside and the pressure actually presses against the patch pressing it in place. You'll have the opposite scenario going on here if epoxied from the outside and I don't see epoxy having a chance in hell at standing up against near 80 psi on the outside of a pressurized "pipe"
There's my .02 cents, you may want to rethink using epoxy and trusting it to hold that much pressure
Picture how car tires are patched from the inside and the pressure actually presses against the patch pressing it in place. You'll have the opposite scenario going on here if epoxied from the outside and I don't see epoxy having a chance in hell at standing up against near 80 psi on the outside of a pressurized "pipe"
There's my .02 cents, you may want to rethink using epoxy and trusting it to hold that much pressure
Last edited by 00pooterSS; 03-10-2021 at 12:26 PM.
03-11-2021, 07:34 AM
#16
You'll have up to 80 ish psi pushing against epoxy trying to push it off of the rail. If you were sealing the rail from the inside with epoxy that would be a different story.
Picture how car tires are patched from the inside and the pressure actually presses against the patch pressing it in place. You'll have the opposite scenario going on here if epoxied from the outside and I don't see epoxy having a chance in hell at standing up against near 80 psi on the outside of a pressurized "pipe"
There's my .02 cents, you may want to rethink using epoxy and trusting it to hold that much pressure
Picture how car tires are patched from the inside and the pressure actually presses against the patch pressing it in place. You'll have the opposite scenario going on here if epoxied from the outside and I don't see epoxy having a chance in hell at standing up against near 80 psi on the outside of a pressurized "pipe"
There's my .02 cents, you may want to rethink using epoxy and trusting it to hold that much pressure
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03-11-2021, 12:21 PM
#17
The pressure is what I am mainly concerned about. I didnt mention using epoxy though, I was referring to a welding rod made for cast iron. That is a really good explanation of how to look at it. I bought the long block from a salvage yard for 400, and they are willing to refund it. I found a short block with no problems for 700 that I'm going to pick up Saturday instead. It's an 03 block but he is including a set of gen 4 rods with it.
**** I responded to the original poster. I didn't realize it was an old thread and that you were asking questions.
03-11-2021, 03:44 PM
#18
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00pooterSS (03-18-2021), G Atsma (03-11-2021)
