Austinma62

Hey guys, I had my car tuned a few weeks ago and want some input on this. Right now the idle is set at 900rpm. Can this be lowered to about 800 with out hurting anything? I heard someone say it can foul out your plus... I want to hear more of a chop from the cam. Also there is some surging around 1200-1500 in 1st in 2nd gear. How much is acceptable with this cam? Also I have 3.42 gears. Overall the car runs a lot better now that its tuned than before. It does not die at all now but some surging in the lower rpms. Thanks guys.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

I would expect a tuner who took some time could get that thing to idle at 700rpm and not have a hint of surge. The lower idle won't hurt anything, especially not the level you are talking about.

My 230/224 used to idle as low as 650rpm but I raised it to 750rpm because the previous tune was like yours and had some minor issues and it was too far to go back for more tuning.

Not sure the difference between auto/manual but my current 230/238 can lug down the highway with the converter locked at 1400 rpm without any kind of surging so I would expect better manners from a milder cam.

Austinma62

Well if thats the case, I will be taking my car back to them and have them make some adjustments. Thats good to hear the idel wont mess anything up, cause right now it doesnt chop that much. And for the driveability I was thinking the same thing, its not that big of a cam so I dont know why he would have problems with it.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

I am by no means a professional tuner so getting mine to work right was time consuming but considering it was my first tune I am pleased with it.

Just from what I have learned with this bigger cam and tuning it myself, I wish I could go back and be more picky about the tune I paid for with the smaller cam. IMO it is not excusable to pay someone $450+ for a tune that isn't right.

Austinma62

In general, once you pay for a tune. Will that include touch up work if its needed. Or is that something negotiable and different from shop to shop?

BigBirdLS1

My 224R 112 LSA cam idles at 700-750rpm warm cold its 900ish. It has zero surging too. The first tune it had it surged a little especially while running the a/c and would have some surging at lite throttle. I paid $500 for a dyno tune called my tuner tol him the issue and he gladly looked at the tune FIXED it no problem now it drives perfect. Bottom line is if you pay good money for a professional dyno tune the tuner should keep adjusting it till its RIGHT no questions asked.

BrntWS6

iTrader: (7)

I have very little surging on my Torquer V3 with stock gearing but I had to do the same as you....bring it back. For the money these shops charge street tuning should be done on cars with internal work like H/C. But all they like to do it tune at WOT because it's easy. They shouldn't charge a dime more to touch up their tune for driveability. Hopefully he spends a little time with it and doesn't just pull timing, no reason a 228 cam needs to surge.

Austinma62

He did do an hour or so of street tuning, and seemed fine while he was driving it. But on the other hand i dont think he went a hair under 1500 the whole time. Im pretty sure they will fix it but before I go back I have to install and new clutch master cylinder from tick performance.

Redbull87

iTrader: (3)

My 228R idles at 800 and I might even bring it down a touch more to 700-750.It sounds good and chops nicely.I had a ver slight surge at the same rpms after my tune and my tuner is easy going.he gives everyone free tweaks to driveability 2 weeks after the initial tune so that you can drive the car and make note of any issues you encounter and then he spends another 30 mins with you in the car to make corrections and finalizes the tune.Some shops dont touch the car/tune after it comes off the rollers unless you pay more...that not a shop you want to tune your ride imo...wot tuning isnt everything.

Exidous

iTrader: (11)

Honestly WOT tuning is just straight up easy. It's the drivability that is a pain in the ***. Transitions between idle and drive and tip in are what is really time consuming. I still have a little surging with mines around the 1400-1600 rpm range but it's managable. I still have some cold start issues but this is all being done by me so there is only one person to blame. I had a guy on the island try to tune it but the drivability was horrible. He attempted to fix it but was set in some very old ways of messing with the injector table to increase fuel under various conditions. I politely asked if I could use his dyno to tune it myself and he didn't have any objections. :-)

Either way I'd get it fixed by the tuner. You shouldn't pay to get a tune then have only WOT done. That is only a small portion of the work required to make a car drivable.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

Agreed with Exidous. I could have had WOT lined out in 30 minutes.

It took me weeks of tweaking off and on the get it to idle and drive without surging and being pissy. And I still have an odd condition where it will be stubborn on a cold start (even once it is warmed up fully) until you turn it off long enough to let the pcm reset and then it is fine.

Austinma62

That doesnt make me feel so bad now, knowing how difficult and how much time it takes to get it right. I will definetly be taking it back though, thanks guys.