I8UR4RD

iTrader: (16)

I have a new motor being shipped soon, and I have been investigating initial fireup procedures pretty thoroughly, and found a way that sounded the most ideal. However, a question keeps scrolling across my mind.

My question is, is my method as good as any other. I wanted to get the Melling Oil Pre lubing tank, and just hook a hose to it, but that thing is too expensive to only use once every 5-10 years. I would rather use that dough towards some new rails.

The way I am going to do it (as of this moment) is to

1. Pull the Fuel Pump Fuse (making sure it does not prime upon turning the switch)

2. Turn over the motor in 10 second intervals while waiting for oil pressure to rise.

3. Once pressure has reached (what about 35-40 I guess??) Then the engine is pre lubed, and can be safely fired up without unnecessary harm to the internals.


Side note----I just remembered I have a vented oil cap that came with my Rx catch can. Can I find oil caps for our cars at Autozone etc?

King Nothing

iTrader: (9)

why not unplug the coil packs so spark doesn't get to the plugs also?

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

IMHO...you are going to spend all that $$ on a new engine and youre going to spin it over dry? Thats nuts!!

I would get the proper pressure pre-luber or make your own. I made one using a garden sprayer.

Gray86hatch

iTrader: (83)

crank it over 6 times for 10 seconds is 1 min running with no oil pressure. how smart is that

I prelube mine anytime I have the remote oil filter line off the engine.

I pressure feed 2 quarts thru mine. always has oil pressure within 3-4 second.

Tim

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

Couple fittings, time and some know-how can turn a 10 dollar garden sprayer into a preluber.

conan

iTrader: (5)

When I put my motors together, I will turn the engine up side down on the stand and pour oil down the oil pickup tube. Once its full i will crank the engine over with a wrench and continue to pour oil in until oil is spilling out the top end of the short block. Soak the lifters in oil and dump oil on the timing chain. Reinstall oil pan, covers, heads, and valve train. Before reinstalling the rocker covers I will use an old gear oil bottle and squirt all over the rockers and down the push rods to the lifters and cam. You can also oil up the cam before the galley cover goes on.
For start up I do as mentioned above... Pull the fuel pump fuse and unplug the coils, Turn the engine over for 15 to 20 seconds. Oil pressure will be around 40-50 psi. Plug everything back in and make some noise

King Nothing

iTrader: (9)

so does anyone pull the fuel pump fuse, disconnect the ignition harness and turn the key over with the oil filter full of oil after they put oil in the head to pressurize it and get oil to move through the engine?

I8UR4RD

iTrader: (16)

Called the wonderful team over at AES. And they are going to use their pressurized system to pre lube the entire motor for me. I am just going to ship my pan, and my valve covers to them so I dont make a mess. Those guys have been real lifesavers, and great to work with. Problem solved by a more than reputable builder. But I would not ,however, think that pulling the spark would make a difference, as long as I had the fuel pump off preventing wash down. I think it would really depend on the pre lube done during assembly, but then again I am not assembling it, and I hear that 70-80% of bearing life, can often be had during the initial startup.

And no I am not going to start it up dry. Without Fuel it would never fire, the starter would just be rotating the motor slow enough to build oil pressure. You cannot manually rotate it on ls1 cars like you can on lt1's......or so I am told. But no I can promise you I am not going to spend all this dough, and **** up on the first turn of the key. oh hail naw.

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

Yup lots of people do it. I sure wouldnt!

King Nothing

iTrader: (9)

How come you wouldn't?

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

Decreases bearing life. Spinning the motor dry allows metal to metal bearing contact. Thats why they invented the pre-lubers, since the LS1 oil pump isnt like the SBC, people decided to use this "work around". Its like nudging fasteners and not using a torque wrench.

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

This is what I did.

The sprayer was like $6 at walmart. Its basically the same thing Motive Bleeders has. You adapt some fittings on the hose. Build a valve if you want. You pump it up to build pressure and there you have it...A pre-luber.

The_Bishop

iTrader: (10)

If you pull the spark plugs out, disable the fuel pump and injectors, you'll be turning the motor over with no load on the bearings, as you'll have no compression. Spin it this way until you have oil pressure, then install plugs, replace fuel pump fuse, etc. You're pre lubed and ready to start.

cjmatt

iTrader: (4)

That is why engines come built with assembly lube and you give an oil change right away. the 50rpms a motor spins at during cranking arent going to hurt it with no oil pressure. I crank my motor without injectors with valve covers off until you start to see oil at the valvesprings, then button it up and fire. never had an issue, and ive had my oil analyzed and its never shown any metal particles.

02anti_vnm

iTrader: (32)

x2 on what these guys said. If you want to listen to every one else and do alota running for parts and fittings by all means thats a great idea but im telling you first hand ive build 7 ls engines 3 for me and 4 for other people and Never once have i done anything other than pull the fuel pump fuse and bump it over exactly as you described you get to about 5psi at that point put the fuse back in and fire it up itll jump to an instant 60ish psi. like i said the sprayer is good unnecessary precautions but the normal method is 100% tried and true there is no load on the engine and your not spinning 1000 rpms for an hour its 50rpms for maybe 30 seconds total. Also thats why assembly lube is used and if you had AES build your engine then you can guarrantee it is covered in assembly lube and done right!

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

I wouldnt assume anything, BTW if your method is true and safe, why is there a pre-luber for LS engines out there? Why did GM stop giving the cranking over instructions?

To each their own, its your engine. Doesnt matter to me which way you go. You know whats best