FasTimeSS

iTrader: (47)

I am picking up a 6.0 block from a friend. I am looking to slowly build it for my car. I am leaning toward a 416 ci build over the 408. I will be building to spray a 300 **** on it. What do you recommend me for crank, pistons and rods for this build. I will be having a local reputable machine shop bore the block and assembly the rotating assembly. I need help on what rotating assembly to pick up for the build. I am looking for recommendations here.

The car currently has stock ls1 with prc stage 1 heads and ms4 camshaft. I will be looking to custom spec a cam from PatG. I would also like here top end recommendations for heads. All the help and recommendations are appreciatted. I have searched through the forum and don't see to much on the 416 lqx info. Thanks for the help.

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

I don't have anything to add, but I tend to think a "300 ****" might be fairly messy.

FasTimeSS

iTrader: (47)

That would be the max that I would run would be more around the 250 hot size.

mark21742

Lol @ Whigham!

Look at what Texas speed has to offer on rotating assys...a good forged crank, H beam rods and good forged pistons will do it for you...I'm running and Eagle crank and H beam rods with Mahle pistons and King bearings in my 408...you'll also want to run a nice tight quench as close to .035" with about a .040" MLS gasket.

With plans for a big shot I'd probably stick with the 408 over the 416

redtan

iTrader: (5)

I would stick with the shorter stroke in the 408 build. 8 cubes isn't going to make that much difference but given the longer stroke it will most definitely affect reliability especially on a pretty big shot.

FasTimeSS

iTrader: (47)

Ok definally looking more at the 408 then. I don't really know where to start. I have looked at Texas speeds website at the rotating assemblies. There are so many options available. What is a good strong rotating assembly out there. This is my first motor build so I am learning as I go. Thanks for the help.

MPFD

iTrader: (5)

People all over the country are dropping 250 on stock short blocks. If you pay over $2-3k for a rotating assembly and can't spray 300, whats the point?

redtan

iTrader: (5)

Oh yeah, like who?

The point is to have your engine last for hundreds of pulls on the juice, not pop after a handful. That's what you get by having it forged vs. stock.

thompson

iTrader: (4)

Give us a shout at Thompson Motorsports, We have Callies, Eagle, and TMS cranks and pistons along with Wiseco, Mahle, and SRP pistons. We can set you up with almost any combo you needs. We also build the motors in your block, It might save you money and get you a better product to have the motor built where you purchase the internals.

Also I agree, Go 408. 4.000" stroke is great for your use, any longer gets to be a little abusive for what it sounds like you plan on doing.

MPFD

iTrader: (5)

Use the search function. There is a guy on PT.net running over 20 psi on a lq4 with ARP hardware only. I have talked at great length with the fella that did my heads in the North east about how many customers he has running a 300 shot on stock crank and rods.

redtan

iTrader: (5)

Stock crank and rods is a wee bit different than stock shortblock, just sayin.

btlegacy

iTrader: (1)

I had to reply to this cause I busted out laughing haha!

MPFD

iTrader: (5)

Sorry I consider the crank and rods and a rotating assembly to be the same thing. If your going .030" on a 6 liter you have to buy pistons anyway. But you don't have to order a new crank and rods, that's optional.